Full beards make style comeback in France

Updated 12 October 2013
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Full beards make style comeback in France

PARIS: Learned and serious like the ancient Greeks or casual like 1950s “Beats”; the full beard is back in fashion in France to the delight of the nation’s barbers. After years in the style wilderness, the sort of bushy beard that takes weeks rather than days to grow — from the plain old full beard to mutton chops or a chin curtain — has finally displaced designer stubble and other barely-there styles of recent years.
This summer, displays of thick facial hair are once more fashionable in France.
Fashion house Maison Martin Margiela’s latest catwalk show, meanwhile, featured a succession of bearded models. The ancient Greeks regarded beards as a sign of virility while Europeans during the latter part of the 19th century saw facial hair as a symbol of solid, middle-class respectability.
In the 1950s, the beard’s reappearance among so-called “Beats” — a term derived from writer Jack Kerouac’s “Beat Generation” — came at a time “when the beard was no longer fashionable among the powerful,” fashion historian Laurent Cotta told AFP.
Non-conformists adopted it as a symbol of rebellion, a way of showing that “one didn’t care about one’s appearance,” he said.
The 1960s hippie counter-culture also embraced the full beard but over the subsequent decades it largely disappeared until the emergence of the designer stubble look of the 1990s.
Today’s beard says “that you work in the artistic world,” Cotta said, adding that despite its new-found popularity it might still raise a few eyebrows in more traditional work environments such as banking or insurance.
The country’s recent fondness for the full beard goes back less than two years to a small number of trend setters.
Antoine Ettori, 28, who works as a graphic artist in Paris, said he had had a thick but short beard for at least a year.
“I am far from being the only one in my profession,” he said, adding that colleagues had not given any sign they disapproved.
Maintenance, however, was more time consuming than shaving, he said.
“I trim it regularly... to stop myself turning into Father Christmas,” he said.
Sarah Daniel-Hamizi, who opened “The Barber of Paris” hairdressing salon in Paris ten years ago, said there had been an upturn in business due to the growing popularity of beards.
“Hairdressers are calling me from all over to get trained (because) it’s a traditional trade that requires a lot of technique,” she said.


Zayan the Label unveils summer and Ramadan lines fit for a princess

Updated 23 May 2018
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Zayan the Label unveils summer and Ramadan lines fit for a princess

  • The Ciao Maharani collection was inspired by Princess Gayatri Devi, the last maharani of Jaipur
  • The label also launched a special line of kaftans for Ramadan

DUBAI: Dubai-based Zayan Ghandour is widely known as the fashion-forward woman behind hugely successful concept store S*uce, which boasts incredibly offbeat designs by regional and international designers in stores across the UAE.
Ghandour launched her own quirky, feminine brand, Zayan the Label, at Paris Fashion Week in 2011 and has now unveiled a Spring/Summer 2018 collection that is perfect for the month of Ramadan, as well as a line of kaftans.
Titled the “Ciao Maharani” collection, the delightful summer line was inspired by Princess Gayatri Devi, the last maharani of Jaipur, the capital of India’s Rajasthan state famous for its reddish pink buildings.
The collection is marked by tiered dresses embroidered with Indian floral folklore motifs, vibrant brocades with contemporary jersey rib details, deliciously bright color block dresses with ruffled halter-necks and detachable off-shoulder sleeves, as well as dresses, tops and bottoms.

#ss18collection #ramadancapsulecollection

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The line is ideal for iftar and suhoor gatherings due to the loose fit and summery shades of some of the pieces — there are even oh-so-comfy sweatpants embroidered with various motifs. Starched, Santorni-esque whites, vibrant reds, yellows and blues all work together to result in a collection that is at once stylish, smile-inducing and fun.
The label is known for its quirks and this line is no different, with one cold shoulder sweatshirt embroidered with the words “Garam Masala” — a fiery, spicy staple in Indian cooking. Although the thought of wearing a sweatshirt in the Gulf heat is rather off-putting, perhaps label lovers could save this piece for their inevitable trip to cooler climes this summer.

#garammasala #ciaomaharani #SS18

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Ghandour also released a similar line of Ramadan kaftans, which echo the colors, styles and motifs that appear in her Ciao Maharani collection.

Fuschia for Ramadan

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Inspired by a legendary style icon in India, it is refreshing that Ghandour chose to turn to the subcontinent to fuel her latest collection.
Described as “one of India’s most elegant, independent and modern maharanis,” by the India Today newspaper, Devi was the third maharani consort of Jaipur from 1940 to 1949, through her marriage to Maharaja Sawai Man Singh II.
She was born on May 23, 1919, in London and married her husband in May 1940. Despite the relative ease with which she could have chosen to live a life of leisure, Devi chose to opt for a stint in politics and won a seat in the Indian Parliament in 1962. She held the seat from 1967-1971 as a member of the Swatantra Party and was an avid equestrienne and polo player to boot.

Known for her fondness for cars, Devi also reportedly imported the first Mercedes-Benz W126 to India and owned a bevy of Rolls-Royces and an aircraft, according to India Today.

With all these achievements under her belt — or tucked neatly into her sari — it is perhaps no wonder that the Lebanese trendsetting designer chose to draw inspiration from the Indian princess.

The collection is available across S*uce stores in Dubai and Abu Dhabi, the standalone Zayan the Label store in Dubai and via international stockists. To peruse the collection online, visit zayanthelabel.com.