Modest fashion crosses cultures

Romanna bint Abu Baker, CEO and founder of Haute Elan, said modest fashion has gone global. (Bloomberg)
Updated 25 February 2018
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Modest fashion crosses cultures

LONDON: Saudi designers will be in the spotlight next month when the international fashion community gathers in Riyadh for the first Arab Fashion Week ever hosted in the Kingdom.
The Arab Fashion Council, which organizes the event, is welcoming the opportunity to showcase Saudi style and display the diversity of local talent on an international platform.
Among the local looks on show will be modest fashion, a trend that is gaining traction on runways across the world. Last week saw the second edition of London Modest Fashion Week (LMFW), with designers from Malaysia to Saudi Arabia showcasing a huge range of designs.
LMFW founder Romanna bint Abu Baker, who also owns modest fashion boutique Haute Elan, said the trend has quickly gone global “as seen from the breadth of international brands on our runway, from Australia to Germany, Pakistan to UK.”
“The Muslim population is very diverse and spread across the world,” she explained.
But it is not just Muslims donning demure attire. In recent seasons, international brands from Dolce & Gabbana to Oscar de La Renta have tapped into the modesty trend, releasing collections dominated by full-length gowns, loose trousers and flowing skirts. Others include DKNY, Tommy Hilfiger, Monique Lhuillier and high-street brands Zara and Mango.
Last year, UK retailer Marks & Spencer launched a line of burkinis, which quickly sold out, and dedicated modest-wear platforms such as The Modist have sprung up to cater to a growing and culturally diverse consumer base.
A recent state of the economy report by Thomson Reuters indicated one possible reason for the mounting interest in modest wear, which yielded revenues of $44 billion in 2015, with Muslims accounting for a global spend of $243 billion on clothing that year. By 2021, apparel spend from Muslims is projected to reach $368 billion, and international brands are eager to cash in on the purchasing power.
Princess Noura Bint Faisal Al-Saud, honorary president of the Arab Fashion Council, said that Arab Fashion Week in Riyadh next month presents an opportunity to explain the roots of this trend while also exhibiting the eclectic nature of Saudi style. “Modest fashion is a fairly new way of expressing beauty and with the exposure of the Saudi market and this event, I think people will understand it better.”
Organizers see Arab Fashion Week as an opportunity to break down cultural barriers and showcase Saudi style to the world. “This is an exchange of culture, knowledge and education,” Princess Noura said.
Discussing the abaya, which features widely in the collections of Arab designers and has made several appearances in international collections, she said it represents “a choice” for women.
“The abaya is something cultural, it’s something that shows our identity and I’m very proud of showing that.
“I love how Dolce and Gabbana actually showcased the abaya on the runway,” she added.
Alia Khan, chairwoman of the Islamic Fashion and Design Council described modest dressing as a different kind of beauty that “liberates” women from media stereotypes. “It allows you to be comfortable, it allows you to be free ... to feel dignified yet elegant.”
She pointed to a long-standing history of modest dressing that spans cultures, countries and religions. “Modest fashion is just as normal as everything else. It’s not a new thing, it comes from pretty much every culture.”
The modesty trend is a way of bridging cultures and bringing people together, Khan continued, pointing to a strong secondary following among non-Muslims and people of other faiths. “Fashion has always been a soft way to break down sociopolitical issues and barriers.”
Jacob Abrian, founder and chief executive of the Arab Fashion Council, which runs Arab Fashion Week, reiterated the value of fashion to start dialogues and promote understanding between different peoples. “Fashion is not only about appearance, it has a great cultural message.”
He’s unconvinced by the concept of modest fashion as a recent trend. “Being modest has always been there … I don’t define it as an industry on its own.”
“It’s up to the lady … sometimes it can be really elegant to dress modestly.It’s really a personal decision.”
Princess Noura reiterated the emphasis on freedom in fashion. “Modesty is something that’s very appealing to the Arab world but there are no boundaries in fashion — you can wear whatever you want.”


US intelligence says Huawei funded by Chinese state security: report

Updated 20 April 2019
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US intelligence says Huawei funded by Chinese state security: report

  • The accusation comes at a time of trade tensions between Washington and Beijing
  • Huawei dismissed the allegations

US intelligence has accused Huawei Technologies of being funded by Chinese state security, The Times said on Saturday, adding to the list of allegations faced by the Chinese technology company in the West.
The CIA accused Huawei of receiving funding from China’s National Security Commission, the People’s Liberation Army and a third branch of the Chinese state intelligence network, the British newspaper reported, citing a source.
Earlier this year, US intelligence shared its claims with other members of the Five Eyes intelligence-sharing group, which includes Britain, Australia, Canada and New Zealand, according to the report.
Huawei dismissed the allegations in a statement cited by the newspaper.
“Huawei does not comment on unsubstantiated allegations backed up by zero evidence from anonymous sources,” a Huawei representative told The Times.
The company, the CIA and Chinese state security agencies did not respond immediately to requests for comment.
The accusation comes at a time of trade tensions between Washington and Beijing and amid concerns in the United States that Huawei’s equipment could be used for espionage. The company has said the concerns are unfounded.
Authorities in the United States are probing Huawei for alleged sanctions violations.
Meng Wanzhou, Huawei’s chief financial officer and daughter of its founder, Ren Zhengfei, was arrested in Canada in December at the request of the United States on charges of bank and wire fraud in violation of US sanctions against Iran.
She denies wrongdoing and her father has previously said the arrest was “politically motivated.”
Amid such charges, top educational institutions in the West have recently severed ties with Huawei to avoid losing federal funding.
Another Chinese technology company, ZTE Corp. , has also been at the center of similar controversies in the United States.
US sanctions forced ZTE to stop most business between April and July last year after Commerce Department officials said it broke a pact and was caught illegally shipping US-origin goods to Iran and North Korea. The sanctions were lifted after ZTE paid $1.4 billion in penalties.
Reuters reported earlier this week that the United States will push its allies at a meeting in Prague next month to adopt shared security and policy measures that will make it more difficult for Huawei to dominate 5G telecommunications networks.