Kohantei: An authentic taste of Japan in the heart of Downtown Dubai

Updated 12 April 2018
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Kohantei: An authentic taste of Japan in the heart of Downtown Dubai

DUBAI: It isn’t easy to find Kohantei. The fact that this tiny restaurant discreetly tucked away in an outbuilding next to Dubai Opera isn’t signposted, and that even the security guard wasn’t sure where it was, all seems intentional — part of the narrative that makes it the complete antithesis of the typical Dubai fine-dining restaurant.

But fine dining this certainly is. Kohantei serves traditional Kaiseki cuisine — Japan’s version of the French-style degustation menu, a high-end affair consisting of several small, meticulously prepared courses. But that’s only half the story; Kaiseki also refers to the culinary skills required to create the food, as well as the ritual of the experience, complete with refined and sincerely hospitable service.

Kohantei — which translates to ‘lakeside pavilion’ — stays true to its time-honored traditional roots in every way. You could be forgiven for thinking you’re in a ryoken in Kyoto once you enter the restaurant (shoes off at the entrance, of course), thanks to the minimalist décor in small private rooms separated by rice paper partitions. Patrons sit on sunken tables to replicate the traditional low seating, and the restaurant is staffed by an all-Japanese team led by celebrated executive chef Hisao Ueda.

You can select from six to eight courses, with price points varying according to number of courses and the produce used to create them. Ingredients are of paramount importance, with most being shipped directly from Japan twice weekly. They are treated with appropriate reverence by the chefs when creating the dishes. This is integral not only to the Kaiseki concept, but to food in Japan in general, and Kohantei follows the Kaiseki tradition in which suppliers actually vet restaurants before allowing them to cook and serve their produce.

That level of respect shows in the final product. Typically, a meal will start with an intricate appetizer such as marinated deep fried seafood with shallot and paprika, served with in-season canola flower topped with bonito flakes.

I could wax eloquent about the flavors, but since the available dishes largely depend on whatever is in season (the slightly bitter canola flower for example, is widely eaten in Japan in springtime as it has a detoxifying effect, our gracious hostess informed us) it wouldn’t matter.
Suffice to say that each course, from the delicately flavored seafood broth with silken tofu, bamboo shoot, and a Japanese-pepper herb garnish to the as-fresh-as-it-gets sashimi of salmon, tuna, and prawn, served with a fiery but delicious house-made wasabi, were meticulously crafted to elicit the maximum umami.

Beef plays a starring role at Kohantei, with the many options — an A4-grade Japanese Wagyu and 9+ Australian Wagyu in my case — proudly displayed raw at first, then cooked and served in a number of ways, including as a grilled dish with deep fried potato and shisito peppers with citrus soy sauce on the side; boiled and served with marinated onions as a cold dish, served, enjoyably but somewhat unusually, after a hot main course; and finally in an utterly delicious rice bowl with miso soup on the side.

A citrus sorbet provides an appropriately light and refreshing finish to the meal.

The Kohantei experience is as much a cultural education as it is a meal. For fans of Japan — both its cuisine and its customs — the restaurant is a must-try.


Take a healthy approach to the issue of nutritional supplements

Updated 21 April 2018
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Take a healthy approach to the issue of nutritional supplements

JEDDAH: There is a growing need for dietary supplements in Saudi Arabia, given the increasing popularity of junk food and the effective role supplements can play in treating diseases caused by mineral and vitamin deficiencies.

A recent study found that 22 percent of Saudi people take nutritional supplements. It is no surprise, then, that many Saudi businesses have forged partnerships with international dietary-supplement companies.

Dr. Rowaidah Idriss, a Saudi dietitian with a Ph.D. in nutrition, said dietary supplements can be defined as substances that provide the human body with a nutrient missing from a person’s regular diet. However, she stressed that they are not intended to replace healthy eating.

She also warned against taking them without first talking to a doctor or dietitian, as some products can have side effects, especially if taken before surgery or with other medicines. 

“They can also cause problems if someone has a history of certain health issues,” she added.

A blood test can determine which nutrients we are not getting enough of in our diet, and therefore which supplements might be beneficial. Nutritional supplements are also used to help treat certain health conditions. 

“Vitamin C, for example, is often used to reduce cold symptoms,” said Idriss. “Fish oil is taken to lower elevated blood triglycerides.”

She suggested four daily essentials that can bridge nutritional gaps in our diet: a multivitamin, vitamin D, calcium and omega-3 fatty acids. 

“I routinely recommend a daily multivitamin and mineral supplement to my clients after consulting with their doctors,” she said. 

“For menstruating women, who require 18 milligrams of iron each day, a daily supplement helps boost iron intake.”

She said people over the age of 50 are advised to take a multivitamin to ensure they are getting enough B12, which plays a key role in the functioning of the nervous system and the development of red blood cells. 

“Older adults are more vulnerable to B12 deficiency because they are more likely to have decreased production of stomach acid, which is needed to release B12 from the proteins in food.” said Idriss. 

“It is also a good idea to take a daily multivitamin if one is following a low-calorie diet.”

She also pointed out that a high intake of DHA and EPA, the two omega-3 fatty acids found in fish oil, are linked with a lower risk of heart disease and Type 2 diabetes. A deficiency of DHA might also increase the risk of Alzheimer’s. 

“A daily intake of 1,000 milligrams of both DHA and EPA is equivalent to eating 12 ounces of salmon a week,” said Idriss.

The dietitian believes that the Saudis who take food supplements often do so more to benefit their appearance than their health. 

“Saudi women consume more dietary supplements than other people in Saudi Arabia,” she said. 

“They do so either to lose weight or to care for their hair and nails. Bodybuilders also take large amounts of supplements.”

However, both groups, according to Idriss, tend to take supplements on the recommendation of friends and trainers, not doctors. 

She warned that commercials and social-media rumors can persuade people to buy supplements online that may not be approved as safe by the Saudi Food and Drug Authority, and advised people to get as much of their daily nutrient needs as possible from healthy eating.

Dr. Rowaidah Idriss

“Along with vitamins and minerals, a healthy diet provides fiber and hundreds of protective phytochemicals, something a supplement cannot do,” she said, adding that the body absorbs natural food more effectively than supplements.

In addition, combining supplements with medications can have dangerous, even life-threatening, effects. 

“Drugs for heart disease and depression, treatments for organ transplants, and birth-control pills are less effective when taken with herbal supplements,” she said.

“Taking an anticoagulant, aspirin, and a vitamin E supplement together may increase the potential for internal bleeding or even stroke.”

 

Natural sources

With the spread of fast-food restaurants and their alluring ads, the long-term health of the Saudi people is in danger, as children and young people snub natural sources of nutrients, such as fruit and vegetables. 

“This can lead to many deficiency diseases. Moreover, vegetarians can develop similar illnesses due to the absence of meat in their diet,” she said.
Dr. Ashraf Ameer, a family-medicine consultant, said the importance of nutritional supplements lies in treating mineral and vitamin deficiency, especially for pregnant women, growing children, diabetics, people with chronic diseases, and the elderly. 

“However, these products should come from reliable companies and meet Saudi food and drug requirements,”he added.

Mohammed Yaseen, who has a food supplements business, said his company works with a leading British health-care company to provide the Saudi market with high quality products.

“With this we hope we can contribute to the national transformation program by raising private-sector spending in health care from 25 percent to 35 percent, which in turn would lead to the sector’s financial sustainability and boost economic and social development in the Kingdom,” Yaseen said.

Decoder

Vitamin Terms

DHA stands for docosahexaenoic acid. EPA stands for eicosapentaenoic acid.  Phytochemical is a biologically active compound found in plants.