Battle of the bakers in Cairo’s ‘kunafa war’

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Egypt’s makers of kunafa are battling to outdo each other with the most outlandish creations of the pastry.
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Updated 21 May 2018
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Battle of the bakers in Cairo’s ‘kunafa war’

  • Egyptian sweet makers are adding a modern spin to the dish that originated in Palestine, adding a range of unusual ingredients to their creations. 
  • Kunafa in Egypt is traditionally crunchy on the top and bottom with sugar or honey sweetening it with fillings in between such as cheese, mixed nuts, raisins and custard.

CAIRO: It has long been a treat savored during Ramadan across the Arab world. But in Egypt, makers of kunafa are battling to outdo each other with the most outlandish creations of the pastry.

Most versions of kunafa appear indulgent to even the most sweet-toothed, with its ingredients of mild cheese covered with layers of shredded phyllo pastry, soaked in a sugar syrup, but its modern interpreters are making it even more of a treat. 

Egyptian sweet makers are adding a modern spin to the dish that originated in Palestine, adding a range of unusual ingredients to their creations. 

“The beauty of kunafa as a pastry is that we can cook it in a variety of options,” Petra Mohamed, a Cairo cook, told Arab News. “You can leave it long, short or broken into pieces, which makes it easier for new ideas. 

“I personally love to serve the trifle kunafa full of mixed fruits. The mix of soft and crunchy is simply amazing.” 

Kunafa in Egypt is traditionally crunchy on the top and bottom with sugar or honey sweetening it with fillings in between such as cheese, mixed nuts, raisins and custard.

A few years ago, a new trend from a younger generation of chefs sent traditionalists into a meltdown.

One particular new favorite has been a combination of mango and whipped cream. 

“The wave started in 2010 with the introduction of mangoes and then seasonal fruits was introduced,” said Mohammed.

“Later, kunafa with Nutella was introduced and people went crazy for it. From then onwards the creation of new ideas didn’t stop: Red velvet kunafa, dates kunafa, kunafa bites with mixed fillings ... the list goes on.”

This year, one Egyptian pastry shop, TBS Fresh introduced its cronafa, a pastry made from croissant rolled in kunafa that comes with a variety of fillings: cream and pistachio, Nutella and nuts, dates and lotus, halawa and sesame.

Another pastry shop, Etoile, introduced the kunafa with avocado, which received mixed reviews.

Nola, a trendy pastry shop, which offers kunafa cupcakes, introduced the kunafa volcano this year, a crusty confection filled with chocolate and custard.

Tasting the new kunafas has become a Ramadan trend with the reactions from sweet-toothed Egyptians providing a great deal of entertainment.

“My blood is full of kunafa,” said Yomna Hassan, a 27-year-old housewife from Cairo.

“Kunafa with cream is the best created invention after the electricity and Messi,” added Mohammed Abdel Megeed.

But for older consumers of the treat, the elaborate incarnations have left them longing for something more traditional.

“We are the generation of kunafa with gee not with mango,” said Yousef Ahmed.

Decoder

The origins of kunafa

The word kunafa comes from the Arabic verb “ka-na-fa” meaning mercy. Originating from Nablus in Palestine, kunafa nablusi is the most famous incarnation of the sweet. Traditional ingredients include nablusi (white brined) cheese, phyllo pastry, pistachio nuts, sugar syrup and rose water.


Waste not, want not: Import-reliant NENA region seeks solutions to consumption and storage issues

Updated 16 October 2018
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Waste not, want not: Import-reliant NENA region seeks solutions to consumption and storage issues

  • Food security institutions around the world mark World Food Day today, to honor the founding date of the UN's Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO)
  • KSA's consultative Shoura Council is looking into a food waste law that could see individuals and organizations fined for excessive waste

DUBAI: With food loss and waste in the Near East and North Africa (NENA) estimated at up to 250kg per person and more than $60 billion annually, a number of initiatives are aiming to tackle the issue across the region, which relies heavily on global food imports, has limited potential to increase production and faces a scarcity of water and arable land.

They’re not alone, as food security institutions around the world mark World Food Day on Tuesday, to honor the founding date of the United Nations’ Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO) in 1945. 

“If, on a global level, we could recover one third of food wasted, it could feed 870 million people,” said Colin Kampschoer, communications officer at the UN’s World Food Program. “In 2017, one in nine people didn’t have enough to eat — this equals 821 million people. Globally, a third of the food produced for human consumption is lost or wasted, amounting to about 1.3 billion tons per year. For example, at the moment we waste almost half of the fruit and vegetables we produce in the world, while we waste 24 million slices of bread each day.”

Saudi Arabia ranks first in the world in food waste per capita. According to the FAO, reducing food loss and waste is vital for sustainable food systems and regional food security. “The high percentage of imported food into the region, combined with the Middle East being a major contributor to food waste, means that it places a heavy burden on the earth’s resources, including water, energy and fossil fuels, that are required to produce and distribute food,” said Ryan Ingram, founder of TerraLoop, a food loss and waste consulting company in the UAE. 

“Greenhouse gas emissions associated with food waste are 25 times more harmful to the environment and accelerate climate change. If food waste were a country, it would rank as the third highest emitter of greenhouse gases behind China and the US.”

The region loses and wastes up to 20 percent of cereals, 50 percent of fruits and vegetables, 16 percent of meat and 27 percent of fish and seafood. 

The FAO estimates that food waste at the consumption stage in the region is 34 percent, and is found mostly in urban areas. Significant wastage is also said to take place during religious holidays, wedding ceremonies and family gatherings, and in the hospitality industry such as in restaurants and hotels. “Major weaknesses for the region include a significant lack of arable land, water scarcity, a hot climate, insufficient investment in agricultural research and high dependence on global and regional markets,” Ingram said. “This is in addition to population growth and increasing local food consumption each year, which also place increased pressure on already-strained food and water resources.”

Food consumption in the GCC has grown from 48.1 million metric tons in 2016, with estimates that it will reach 59.2 million metric tons in the GCC by 2021. And with a compound annual growth rate of 4.2 percent and 800 million undernourished people in the world, much work needs to be done. 

“The Middle East, like most prosperous societies, has access to plentiful food supplies,” said Jeffrey Culpepper, chairman of Agrisecura in the UAE, which provides sustainable solutions for food security purposes. “That excess promotes waste, especially in high-end hotels and restaurants. Many times, portions are valued in quantity, not quality, so too much is put on your plate.” 

He said hot climates add to difficulties in storing surpluses. “Mandatory management of food waste by governments is required,” he added. “As opposed to dumping in landfills, it can be digested into bio-fuel or composted. By having smaller portions on the plate, savings can be used to offset storage cost of waste for collection.”

Landfills are also quickly reaching capacity. “By recycling food waste, it will take pressure off landfills and create useful byproducts like bio-fuel and compost,” Culpepper said. “Also, in a world where food shortages and hunger are a major problem in many countries, wasting food has become a moral issue.”

Others called for implementing a law to combat food waste, such as enforcing a fee on restaurant-goers who leave unfinished plates. “Monitoring large food-waste producers, like catering companies, hotels, markets, malls and airlines, is vital,” Ingram said. “There is also a need for national and regional guidance and awareness campaigns in all sectors, including residential, commercial and government, as well as pre-Ramadan.”

He suggested measuring waste at the source and creating a feedback loop to the supply chain so that procurement is reduced. “What gets measured, gets managed,” Ingram added. “Developing community projects that tackle food waste at the source and educating the producers and public about the issue and how to be a part of the solution, can also help. Developing policies that help overcome future food security challenges requires further research, and development and future strategies need to be aligned with research and development to ensure resilience and sustainability.”

Many initiatives are starting to emerge across the region to tackle the issue. The UAE Food Bank collects food from hotels, restaurants, supermarkets and farms to distribute to people in need, such as laborers.

Terra Loop sees itself as the Middle East and Indian Ocean’s first food waste auditing consultancy, helping people to understand their food waste, from five-star hotels and resorts to shopping malls and restaurants. Its objective is to guide them to solutions that reduce their “FoodPrint,” taking responsibility and improving their bottom line.

In Saudi Arabia, the Eta’am Food Bank, launched in 2010, helps to feed the underprivileged by distributing excess food from hotels, banquets and weddings to the poor and needy. “Other corporates in the Eastern Province now also participate in the scheme,” Ingram added. “Eta’am also promotes food-related culture and provides hands-on experience in the safe preparation of food through the Food Academy Initiative.” 

Moreover, the Kingdom’s consultative Shoura Council is looking into a food waste law that could see individuals and organizations fined for excessive waste. It also proposed the establishment of a national center to offer guidance and awareness on food waste. 

“There is a growing awareness in local communities on the problem of excess food waste with several local initiatives having been started to recycle residential food waste,” Culpepper said. “These efforts are important but still too small to make a significant difference. The big generators of food waste are hotels, restaurants, schools, hospitals and government institutions, as opposed to residential, so it will require a government policy to force commercial food-waste producers to recycle.”