Leading regional designers make a splash at international fashion weeks

Elie Saab. (Shutterstock)
Updated 04 October 2018
0

Leading regional designers make a splash at international fashion weeks

  • September was a hectic month for designers with all the fashion weeks
  • Take a look at the designers from the Arab world who impressed with their Spring 2019 collections

DUBAI: September was a hectic month for designers, with New York, London, Milan and Paris all hosting fashion weeks. We take a look at the designers from the Arab world who impressed with their Spring 2019 collections last month.

Elie Saab
The Lebanese designer lived up to his billing as the biggest name in Arab fashion at Paris Fashion Week with a vibrant, striking collection inspired by spring itself. Saab swam against the current — the predominant style in Milan, London and Paris was street-inspired —  to great effect with his bold, dark-but-playful collection, which was dominated by the classic symbol of fertility, a blooming flower; Saab’s acclaimed silhouettes were covered in them. Placed on leather, lace, and silk, molded from sequins, shadowed on organza… blooms were everywhere. In less-skilled hands, the collection could have come across as twee, but Saab, while retaining a certain romanticism, balanced the botanicals with enough contrasting material —  heavy gold jewelry, studded black leather box bags —  to ensure the overall look remained thoroughly modern.

Elie Saab. (Getty Images)

Hedi Slimane
The Tunisian-Italian designer made his name with a stunning Fall 2001 menswear collection for Dior Homme, and, for the past 20 years, one could reasonably argue that no other designer has held greater sway over men’s fashion and the slimline silhouettes that have become the norm. So Slimane’s debut collection as creative director for French brand Celine —  including mens- and womenswear — in Paris last week was, it’s fair to say, eagerly anticipated. He didn’t disappoint. “Paris La Nuit” featured his customary razor-sharp tailoring and clothes that were —  almost without exception —  black. GQ aptly described the look as “stealthily elegant … but unmistakably Slimane,” and suggested most of the collection “would appeal to a wide swath of guys —  from boardroom-dwelling LVMH executives to Mark Ronson.” The Guardian, meanwhile, suggested Slimane’s “brutally slender” women’s ready-to-wear collection “rips up Celine’s female design philosophy” by “jettisoning elegant trousers and silk blouses … for dolly-sized sequin micro shifts and tiny leather skirts.”

Hedi Slimane. (Getty Images)

Nabil Nayal
The Syrian-born British designer delved deep into the history of England to come up with inspiration for his dramatic Spring 2019 collection. He described its aesthetic as “Elizabethan Sportswear,” and staged his presentation in the British Library, where he’d spent much of his time doing the research for his PhD thesis on that subject. His collection contained several nods to British fashions of the 16th century —  most notably ruffs, embroidery and embellishments; the tulle necklines of his T-shirts and the ruffled fronts of his dresses. While his inspiration was ancient, his production methods were bang up-to-date; witness the digitized images of Elizabethan maps and prayerbooks, the Queen’s funeral procession, and her Tilbury Speech of 1558, which included the famous words, “I may have the body of a weak and feeble woman, but I have the heart and stomach of a King.”

Nabil Nayal. (Getty Images)

Osman Yousefzada
OSMAN, the eponymous label of British designer Osman Yousefzada —  born in Birmingham to Afghani-Pakistani parents, staged its Spring 2019 collection in London’s Covent Garden and showcased the clean lines and bold colors and textures that have become its signature. While the collection was, apparently, inspired by “the world’s great balls,” this was not an overly stuffy ensemble. Instead, Yousefzada told WWD, he “wanted to do easy versions of formal looks for everyday.” There was certainly a wide variety in the collection —  dresses ranged from the sheer to the voluminous, and sharply tailored suits were followed by feather-embellished tiered dresses. Throughout, though, OSMAN’s collection was big on fun and vibrancy.

Osman Yousefzada. (Getty Images)

Noon by Noor
Noor Rashid Al-Khalifa and Haya Mohamed Al-Khalifa drew inspiration from the natural beauty of their homeland, Bahrain, for their label’s Spring 2019 collection, showcased at New York Fashion Week. Their soft color palette drew from sand, pinks and light blues mixed in with blacks and whites, while their silhouettes were inspired by the flowing contours of traditional Khaleeji dress, using folded or tucked fabrics to add depth. Their embellishments, too, were influenced by the Gulf —  specifically its palm fronds. “As usual,” FashionUnited wrote, “tailoring was a big focus,” adding that “the defining moments were in the details” and describing the collection as “a fusion of masculine tailoring with feminine drapery” while praising the cousins’ use of “stripe weaves, mini pleats, accent Dobby weaves and fringes.”

Noon by Noor. (Getty Images)

 


Destiny’s designers: Kelly Rowland, Beyoncé don Arab gowns at charity event

Kelly Rowland wearing Yousef Al-Jasmi. (AFP)
Updated 15 October 2018
0

Destiny’s designers: Kelly Rowland, Beyoncé don Arab gowns at charity event

DUBAI: Kelly Rowland and Beyoncé both chose Middle East-based designers for their trip down the red carpet at a charity event last week.

The superstars attended the City of Hope Gala in Santa Monica, California, wearing floor-length gowns by designers from Kuwait and Lebanon.

For her part, Rowland chose a glittering, rose gold gown by Kuwaiti designer Yousef Al-Jasmi, with a high collar and slit at the back. She accented the figure-hugging dress with a pair of dazzling earrings and slicked-back hair.

Meanwhile, Beyoncé chose a black velvet jacket by Lebanese label Elie Saab. The belted piece featured embellishments on the shoulder and a plunging neckline and is from the label’s Autumn/Winter 2016 collection.

Beyoncé paid homage to a high-profile music executive being honored at a charity event to raise money for cancer research, The Associated Press reported.

The singer’s vocals soared as she performed three ballads including her 2009 smash hit “Halo” and “Ava Maria” after saluting the character of Warner/Chappell Music Publishing CEO Jon Platt at the City of Hope gala near Los Angeles on Thursday night. She took the stage following her husband, Jay Z, who presented Platt with the Spirit of Life award during a charity event that raised more than $6 million.

“Most people lead with their ego, but you lead with your heart,” Beyoncé said Platt, who will soon be leaving his position at Warner/Chappell to take on the top role at Sony/ATV, the top publishing company in the music business.

“You have touched so many lives, mine included,” she added.

Jay Z called Platt the “Obama of the music industry.” The music executive is known for signing publishing deals with Jay Z, Usher, Kanye West and Snoop Dogg. His roster of songwriters at Warner/Chappell includes Lil Wayne, Bruno Mars and Timbaland.

Both Beyoncé and Jay Z appeared at the black-tie charity event after the couple wrapped up their On The Run II tour about a week ago.

“I can’t think of anyone more deserving of this award than my brother, Jon Platt,” Jay Z told more than 1,000 attendees. “He’s known as ‘Big Jon’ and he has a beautiful soul.”

City of Hope is a treatment center for cancer, diabetes and other life-threatening diseases as the Music, Film and Entertainment Industry Group has raised more than $118 million in 45 years. The award is the group’s highest honor recognizing those that have helped further music, film and entertainment.

Previous Spirit of Life award recipients include Quincy Jones, Clive Davis, Irving Azoff and Mo Ostin.

Music mogul Diddy, singer Usher, former NBA player Chauncey Billups and some of Platt’s family members took part in a video dedicated to the music executive. Platt’s oldest son, Jonathan Platt, was diagnosed with diabetes.