Journey to the afterlife: Indonesia’s Toraja live among the dead

1 / 4
This photo taken on September 11, 2018 shows a guide holding a light over the remains of bodies interned in a burial cave in Londa in Tana Toraja regency. (AFP)
2 / 4
This photo taken on September 11, 2018 shows a human skull at the entrance of a burial cave in Londa in Tana Toraja regency. (AFP)
3 / 4
This photo taken on September 11, 2018 shows the entrance to a burial cave in Londa in Tana Toraja regency, where wooden dolls known as Tau Tau are dressed in Torajan traditional clothes and displayed to represent deceased nobility. (AFP)
4 / 4
This picture taken on September 12, 2018 shows the people of Toraja carrying a coffin during a funeral ceremony known as "Rambu Solo" in Londa in Tana Toraja regency. (AFP)
Updated 10 November 2018
0

Journey to the afterlife: Indonesia’s Toraja live among the dead

  • Traditionally the embalming process involved sour vinegar and tea leaves but these days families usually inject a formaldehyde solution into the corpse
  • The Indonesian government is trying to promote Torajan death rituals as part of ambitious plans to boost tourism across the sprawling Southeast Asian archipelago

LA’BO, Indonesia: Martha Kande’s family lived with her greying, shrivelled corpse at their home in Indonesia for seven months, as they prepared an elaborate funeral that is central to the Toraja people’s centuries-old death rituals.
“We keep the body in a coffin at home,” Meyske Latuihamallo, the 81-year-old woman’s granddaughter, told AFP.
“But it’s kept open before they are buried because we see them as sick so they are brought food and drink every day.”
Torajans — an ethnic group that numbers about a million people on Sulawesi island — have few qualms when it comes to talking with an embalmed corpse, dressing them up, brushing their hair or even taking pictures with a mummified relative.
Traditionally the embalming process involved sour vinegar and tea leaves but these days families usually inject a formaldehyde solution into the corpse.
“After a week, there’s no odour anymore,” local tourist guide Lisa Saba Palloan told AFP.
It may seem a ghoulish practice to some: living side-by-side with an embalmed body for months — or even years — before paying homage in a ritualistic display of blood and guts.
But the Toraja believe that a person is only dead — and their soul freed — after an elaborate funeral known as “Rambu Solo.”

Wild boars howled and blood poured from a sacrificial buffalo’s throat as Kande’s family prepared her mummified body for the afterlife.
Following the five-day ceremony, the octogenarian was placed in one of the many burial caves scattered around the mountainous region, where skeletal remains are arranged by social hierarchy.
They sit alongside wooden dolls in traditional clothing, representing deceased nobility, while some bodies are kept in coffins that hang from steep cliffs — owing to limited space.
“These are the customs of our ancestors,” said Kande’s 72-year-old nephew Johanes Singkali.
“We maintain them to preserve these traditions and keep them sacred from outside influences.”
Although most Torajans are Christian — a product of Dutch colonialism — they have held onto earlier traditions rooted in animiztic beliefs.
The more elaborate a funeral the more likely the person’s spirit will reach the level of the gods.
But it comes at a cost.
As many as 100 buffalo could be slaughtered for a noble person, while as few as eight will suffice for a middle-class Torajan.
Funerals can set a family back up to two billion rupiah ($133,000) — an extravagant amount in a country where more than half the population live on less than $5.50 a day, according to the World Bank.
“We used to be animizts, so we buried people with boars and buffalos to offer the spirits on the way to the afterlife,” Singkali said.
“It costs a lot and there are a lot of preparations while all the relatives living outside Toraja must come too.”

Hundreds gathered in La’Bo village for Kande’s spiritual send-off, along with dozens of picture-snapping tourists.
Her body was put into a red coffin — in the form of a traditional, boat-shaped house — which was then placed in front of her home.
Relatives clad in black dragged dozens of pigs into the center of the village for slaughter as family members danced.
At midday, a prized buffalo was led out onto a blue tarpaulin where its throat was slit — confirming the woman’s death — and the carcass butchered for a big dinner to follow.
Finally Kande’s coffin was carried around the neighborhood in a symbolic goodbye.
It’s not for the squeamish, but American visitor Ellie Eshleman took a philosophical view.
“I am passionate about death,” the 29-year-old said.
“I would like to help restore it to its spiritual place in the Western world. So, I came here to see their death customs and how it can be a time of celebration.”

The Indonesian government is trying to promote Torajan death rituals as part of ambitious plans to boost tourism across the sprawling Southeast Asian archipelago.
While the Toraja region draws tens of thousands of tourists annually, it is a fraction of the millions who descend on holiday hotspot Bali.
Growing Toraja tourism faces several hurdles, although opposition from locals does not appear to be among them.
Rather, poor infrastructure and the absence of a major airport in the highland region make travel difficult.
Furthermore, it is difficult to plan a trip to see a Rambu Solo ceremony because dates can change as families struggle to save enough money for one.
But many visitors are still willing to take a chance and drive for hours from the nearest major airport to see one of the world’s most unique funeral rites.
“Toraja is a piece of heaven on earth,” said Harli Patriatno, North Toraja’s head of culture and tourism.
“Its natural beauty combined with the Toraja people’s spiritualism and funeral rites is extraordinary.”


Rumors intensify as Football superstars meet at Salt Bae restaurant in Dubai

Updated 18 November 2018
0

Rumors intensify as Football superstars meet at Salt Bae restaurant in Dubai

  • Lionel Messi and Paul Pogba met and talked at steakhouse in Dubai, which is owned by the famous Salt Bae
  • Both were in Dubai during the international break

DUBAI: Football fanatics were going crazy over an unexpected meeting between Lionel Messi and Paul Pogba in Salt Bae’s steakhouse in Dubai.

Manchester United midfielder Pogba, who last week withdrew from a game due to a thigh injury, was enjoying a break in Dubai when he bumped into Barcelona legend Messi.

Pogba posted a video of himself enjoying a lavish steak meal at the Nusr-Et in Dubai, as Salt Bae performed his iconic steak-slicing act. He reportedly sat with Messi, as they both had a “deep conversation,” according to local Manchester media.

Their meeting was met with both excitement and speculations about the possible transfer of Pogba to Barcelona, as the 25-year-old struggles with his relationship with Man United’s Jose Mourinho.

Barcelona center-back Gerard Pique recently showed excitement at the potential transfer.

“We will be happy to have him here, obviously. We want the best players to be at Barcelona,” Pique said.

The Premier League resumes next weekend and Pogba is looking forward to be back, as Manchester United’s medical department had said his injury wasn’t serious.