Arab designers set to storm Paris Couture Week

Lebanon fashion designer Rabih Kayrouz acknowledges the audience at the end of his 2018-2019 Fall/Winter Haute Couture collection fashion show in Paris, on July 2, 2018. (AFP)
Updated 12 January 2019
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Arab designers set to storm Paris Couture Week

DUBAI: Lebanese fashion house Maison Rabih Kayrouz has been granted haute couture status by the French Couture Federation, it was announced last week, and the label is set to take part in the upcoming Paris Couture Week alongside an elite handful of regional brands.
The decision to grant the fashion house the prestigious position was made at a Dec. 3 meeting between the French Couture Federation and France’s Industry Ministry, although the announcement was made last week.
Maison Rabih Kayrouz was elected as a guest member of the haute couture calendar in 2016 — guest members can take part in the couture week showcases but cannot use the label “haute couture.”
Other iconic fashion houses to be hold the haute couture tag include Givenchy, Chanel and Maison Margiela.
The brand’s founder took to Instagram to express his gratitude about the recognition.

“We are proud to announce that Maison Rabih Kayrouz is officially appointed to the haute couture prestigious circle... permanent member and the right to use the haute couture label... thanks to all the team who worked so hard since 20 years (and) thanks to all our friends and supporters (sic),” the post read.
The label is popular with celebrities, with Canadian crooner Celine Dion having worn many a design by the Lebanese fashion house. One standout look was a lemon-yellow suit by Kayrouz that she wore while in Bangkok on the Asian leg of her world tour in July 2018.
Similar striking looks will no doubt go on show as Paris Couture Week kicks off on Jan. 21, with four Arab fashion labels taking part in the elite event.
Maison Rabih Kayrouz, Georges Hobeika, Elie Saab and Zuhair Murad have all been invited to showcase their collections in Paris and are part of a high-end group of just 31 labels to take part in January’s showcase.
The Lebanese labels will be joined by the likes of Christian Dior, Jean Paul Gaultier and Ralph & Russo at Paris Couture Week, which ends on Jan. 24.


‘Not your habibti’: Palestinian designer seeks to empower women

Updated 15 January 2019
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‘Not your habibti’: Palestinian designer seeks to empower women

  • Designer Yasmeen Mjalli sees the clothes as helping empower Palestinian women facing unwelcome male attention in public
  • Mjalli says that her fight against harassment of women is unconnected to the #MeToo movement

RAMALLAH, Palestinian Territories: It’s only three words on a T-shirt or embroidered on a denim jacket in Palestinian designer Yasmeen Mjalli’s collection, but they carry a powerful message: “Not your habibti,” or darling.
She sees the clothes as helping empower Palestinian women facing unwelcome male attention in public.
“When a woman is exposed to so much harassment on the street, she begins to dress to protect herself, to hide herself as opposed to expressing herself,” the 22-year-old art history graduate says, leaning against the counter of her shop in Ramallah in the occupied West Bank.
On fabrics of muted colors and on canvas bags from her BabyFist label, she places messages in English and Arabic inside drawings of flowers and other designs.
“Every rose has its revolution,” one says.
Mjalli grew up in the US, where she lived with her Palestinian parents.
She started painting slogans on her own clothes when the family relocated to the West Bank and she found herself facing a different reality.
“I have experienced things like comments, really uncomfortable stares, the kind that make you feel very violated,” she said.
“I have been assaulted in the streets, people touching me,” she adds, catching one tattooed arm in her other hand to mimic being grabbed.
In August 2017, she launched her first collection and a few months later opened the Ramallah shop to complement her existing online sales.
“It’s not like the T-shirt is going to stop harassment,” she says.
But it’s “a reminder that you are part of something bigger that is working to empower women and to give back in some way and that is trying to have this conversation that challenges all of these structures which we are victims of too,” she adds.
The goal, Mjalli says, is to create a community.
Using Instagram, free workshops in her shop and public places where she sometimes installs herself with a typewriter, she offers Palestinian women the freedom to express their feelings and tell stories they cannot share elsewhere.
She donates around 10 percent of her fashion earnings to a local women’s group.
One project she funds sent a doctor and volunteers into schools to teach Palestinian girls about menstruation, a subject still largely taboo.
While defining herself as a feminist, Mjalli says that her fight against harassment of women is unconnected to the #MeToo movement.
“I don’t think it’s related even though it happened at the same time,” she said, though acknowledging that the movement gave her own efforts a boost.
“It’s a very American and it’s a very white feminism, and it’s not what we are doing here.”
All BabyFist garments are made in the Palestinian territories.
Jackets are sewn in Hassan Shehada’s Gaza workshop.
Among the sewing machines humming under florescent lights, Shehada shows a denim jacket embroidered with “Not your habibti.”
“I am proud that women wear the fruits of my labors and I am also very proud that they are labeled ‘Made in Palestine’,” he says.
In the past three months, he has made 1,500 items for BabyFist.
It was a breath of fresh air for Shehada’s business in the Gaza Strip, under an Israeli blockade for more than a decade and with endemic high unemployment.
“Working with BabyFist has given me back hope,” he says, adding that it has fulfilled a dream of exporting to Europe.
But manufacturing in Gaza comes at a cost.
Israeli restrictions mean jackets have been held up for weeks when the land crossing through Israel was closed due to mass Palestinian protests and clashes along the fence, Mjalli said.
“The border was closed indefinitively and we couldn’t get anything in or out,” she said. “It’s a constant battle.”
She says that around 40 percent of her sales are made in the Ramallah store and 60 percent online, mostly to the Palestinian and broader Arab diaspora.
Not everyone, however, is a fan.
Mjalli has come under fire from conservatives, who say she draws attention to women’s bodies by designing clothes that carry provocative messages.
Her criticism of some aspects of Palestinian society has also raised the hackles of those who believe that the struggle against Israeli occupation is the only legitimate public campaign.
For her, the fight for Palestinian independence and campaigning for women’s rights are intertwined.
“The occupation robs men in our society of any sense of control, any sense of masculinity which in turn affects women’s rights,” she says.
For Mjalli, there have been “already two or three generations of women that have had to suffer while we say: ‘OK, you can wait.’”