Startup of the Week: Jilbab_NR: Putting a creative twist on the bisht

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Jilbab_NR’s signature Ramadan 2019 collection. (Courtesy Jilbab_NR Instagram)
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Jilbab_NR’s signature Ramadan 2019 collection. (Courtesy Jilbab_NR Instagram)
Updated 16 April 2019
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Startup of the Week: Jilbab_NR: Putting a creative twist on the bisht

RIYADH: The bisht is traditionally donned by Saudi men, a long cloak worn over thobes that is usually made of wool and available in neutral colors. But three Saudi women are putting a twist on the bisht by feminizing it and dialing up the glamor.

Jilbab_NR was founded in 2010 by sisters Nejoud and Nouf Sharbatly and their friend Rehab Mirdad. Together they combined their ideas and love for traditional Saudi garments and embarked on a cultural fashion journey. Their first collection? The bisht-abaya. They began with gold and silver embroidery on black fabric, later branching out into bolder colors and designs.

The business is based in Jeddah and has a thriving clientele base across Saudi Arabia, Nouf said. There may not be a store but they always showcase their latest collection on Instagram and in bazaars.

Their Instagram account has more than 35,000 followers and features distinctive garments for different tastes — pastels, pinstripes, and prints, belted, embroidered, zipped and floral.

“We are blessed to have beautiful and loyal customers that always give us their positive feedback and make us design the best for them,” Nouf told Arab News. They constantly seek the latest trends and styles for their clients “but with a jilbab fingerprint on it.”

The trio have created the royal bisht, which is a lush abaya, their signature bisht-abaya, which has the look and feel of an abaya but with the embroidery of a bisht, and the vest-bisht, which is sleeveless and made of sheer material and can be thrown over jeans and a top for a casual but elegant look.

The bishts come in different colors, from Tiffany & Co.’s signature duck-egg blue to maroon and black. The spectrum is one of the things that sets them apart from other brands, which have begun copying the trios’ style.

“Alhamdulillah, the jilbab has been in the Saudi market now for nine years. It is known and recognized from its design and styles that you cannot miss, no matter how many copies we see in the market. That’s normal and it makes us happy and proud because that’s the sign of success,” said Nouf.

Since then Jilbab_NR has expanded and created different abayas and jalabiyas. One of its more exquisite pieces is the Goyard abaya, which is beaded by hand and named after the French label. “We don’t have time to do a proper photo shoot, because whenever we post a picture on Instagram the abayas or thobes sell out.”

Jilbab_NR’s latest collection will be for Ramadan. Nouf said they were special and colorful abayas and jalabiyas with the holy month’s “vibes, spirit and style on them.”

Find them on Instagram: Jilbab_NR


Fashion capital New York considers banning sale of fur

Updated 17 April 2019
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Fashion capital New York considers banning sale of fur

  • Lawmakers are pushing a measure that would ban the sale of all new fur products in the city
  • “Cruelty should not be confused with economic development,” a sponsor of the legislation said

NEW YORK: A burgeoning movement to outlaw fur is seeking to make its biggest statement yet in the fashion mecca of New York City.
Lawmakers are pushing a measure that would ban the sale of all new fur products in the city where such garments were once common and style-setters including Marilyn Monroe, Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, Joe Namath and Sean “Diddy” Combs have all rocked furs over the years.
A similar measure in the state Capitol in Albany would impose a statewide ban on the sale of any items made with farmed fur and ban the manufacture of products made from trapped fur.
Whether this is good or bad depends on which side of the pelt you’re on. Members of the fur industry say such bans could put 1,100 people out of a job in the city alone. Supporters dismiss that and emphasize that the wearing of fur is barbaric and inhumane.
“Cruelty should not be confused with economic development,” said state Assemblywoman Linda Rosenthal, a Democrat from Manhattan, who is sponsoring the state legislation. “Fur relies on violence to innocent animals. That should be no one’s business.”
The fate of the proposals could be decided in the coming months, though supporters acknowledge New York City’s measure has a better chance of passage than the state legislation.
The fur trade is considered so important to New York’s development that two beavers adorn the city’s official seal, a reference to early Dutch and English settlers who traded in beaver pelts.
At the height of the fur business in the last century, New York City manufactured 80% of the fur coats made in the U.S, according to FUR NYC, a group representing 130 retailers and manufacturers in the city. The group says New York City remains the largest market for fur products in the country, with real fur still frequently used as trim on coats, jackets and other items.
If passed, New York would become the third major American city with such a ban, following San Francisco, where a ban takes effect this year, and Los Angeles, where a ban passed this year will take effect in 2021.
Elsewhere, Sao Paulo, Brazil, began its ban on the import and sale of fur in 2015. Fur farming was banned in the United Kingdom nearly 20 years ago, and last year London fashion week became the first major fashion event to go entirely fur-free.
Fur industry leaders warn that if the ban passes in New York, emboldened animal rights activists will want more.
“Everyone is watching this,” said Nancy Daigneault, vice president at the International Fur Federation, an industry group based in London. “If it starts here with fur, it’s going to go to wool, to leather, to meat.”
When asked what a fur ban would mean for him, Nick Pologeorgis was blunt: “I’m out of business.”
Pologeorgis’ father, who emigrated from Greece, started the fur design and sales business in the city’s “Fur District” nearly 60 years ago.
“My employees are nervous,” he said. “If you’re 55 or 50 and all you’ve trained to do is be a fur worker, what are you going to do?“
Supporters of the ban contend those employees could find jobs that don’t involve animal fur, noting that an increasing number of fashion designers and retailers now refuse to sell animal fur and that synthetic substitutes are every bit as convincing as the real thing.
They also argue that fur retailers and manufacturers represent just a small fraction of an estimated 180,000 people who work in the city’s fashion industry and that their skills can readily be transferred.
“There is a lot of room for job growth developing ethically and environmentally friendly materials,” said City Council Speaker Corey Johnson, who introduced the city measure.
New Yorkers asked about the ban this week came down on both sides, with some questioning if a law was really needed.
“It is a matter of personal choice. I don’t think it’s something that needs to be legislated,” said 44-year-old Janet Thompson. “There are lots of people wearing leather and suede and other animal hides out there. To pick on fur seems a little one-sided.”
Joshua Katcher, a Manhattan designer and author who has taught at the Parsons School of Design, says he believes the proposed bans reflect an increased desire to know where our products come from and for them to be ethical and sustainable.
“Fur is a relic,” he said.