Tracing Islamic heritage in Tbilisi
Tracing Islamic heritage in Tbilisi
Though Georgia first came under Muslim rule in 645, during the reign of Caliph Omar Ibn Al-Khattab, the Emirate of Tbilisi was not established before 736. Its center, Tbilisi, grew into a prosperous city thriving on commerce. Arabs were the first Muslims to rule over much of Georgia and the greater Caucasus, until the balance of power shifted toward the Turks. Muslim rule over the Emirate of Tbilisi came to an end in 1122, when a year earlier Turks lost a battle to the Georgian king David IV.
The heydays of the Emirate of Tbilisi are long gone, but there are still traces of Islamic heritage in the city today.
Old buildings or monuments from that period have all been razed to the ground, as the country came under numerous waves of conquest. Nevertheless, if we dig deep into the city’s layers we are bound to find a lot of Islamic heritage.
King Vakhtang Gorgasali of Kartli founded Tbilisi in the 5th century. The city got its name from the Georgian word tbili, which means warm. That is courtesy of the natural springs found in the city. These springs, often referred to as sulphuric baths due to the high concentration of minerals its water contains, attract hordes of tourists who come to enjoy the alleged rejuvenating qualities. The Orbeliani Baths are located at close proximity from Tbilisi’s Old Town. The baths are gender segregated and there are private ones as well. In many ways the baths resemble Turkish hammams, offering a reviving and pampering experience that will leave you feeling fresh and relaxed. You can’t miss Orbeliani Baths as they will grab your attention with their distinct domes and façade. The blue tiled façade comes adorned with geometrical patterns typical of Central Asian Turkish architecture: a hint of Islamic heritage right in the heart of the Georgian capital.
A stone’s throw away from Orbeliani Baths is Tbilisi’s sole functioning mosque. Dating back to 1895 the mosque miraculously survived the communist era with all its notorious purges. The mosque comes with a brick-made exterior, which gives it its distinctive red color, and a white minaret tip. The interiors, however, blend different Islamic architecture styles, mixing subtly decorated sidewalls with a mihrab (a niche indicating the direction of Makkah) that is heavily decorated with blue-toned calligraphy and floral designs.
Tbilisi’s Old Town is perched on a mountain overlooking the modern city. Taking your way up you will pass many cobbled alleyways lined with old buildings and various religious houses. At the very top a 20-meter aluminum statue known as Kartlis Deda, Mother Georgia, will greet you. The female statue holds a sword in one hand and a cup of wine in the other. It is the best example of the Georgian character; the generous people will greet their friends with the best they have, but will fiercely defend their land if approached by enemies.
A short stroll from Kartlis Deda is Narikala Fortress. The city’s most famous defensive structure dates back to the 4th century. The Persians built its foundations, while the walls were constructed during the 8th century when Arabs ruled the city. At that time, the Emir’s palace was actually inside the fortress. Narikala offers superb panoramic views of Tbilisi.
How to get there?
Flyduabi connects the Georgian capital Tbilisi with various cities on the Arabian Peninsula (via Dubai), three times a week.
Where to stay?
The Marriott Tbilisi is one of the best hotels in town.
Tel: +95 (32) 277 9200
E-mail: [email protected]
Mariam’s journey to North Pole ‘an inspiration for Saudi women’
- Mariam Hamidaddin was one of 11 women from Europe and the Middle East taking part in the recent Women’s Euro-Arabian Polar Expedition, an initiative aimed to foster greater dialogue and inspire women to push their limits and fulfill their ambitions.
- Two weeks later and Hamidaddin still could not feel her fingertips. She struggles to cut a steak and needs help to tie her shoelaces. Medics say it could be months or even years before she fully recovers.
LONDON: Mariam Hamidaddin was skiing toward the North Pole in temperatures as low as minus 38 C when she was advised by her team leader to give up on her dream and take a helicopter back to base camp.
She did so reluctantly. Frostbite had taken its toll on the Jeddah-born entrepreneur’s hands, but with no previous experience of such climates, Hamidaddin was unaware of the severity. Only when she was assessed by a Russian medic who spoke pidgin English did she appreciate how close she was to losing her fingers.
“The words he told me were: ‘No chop’ ... which was scary but also a great relief to hear,” said Hamidaddin, one of 11 women from Europe and the Middle East taking part in the recent Women’s Euro-Arabian Polar Expedition, an initiative aimed to foster greater dialogue and inspire women to push their limits and fulfill their ambitions. Team leader Felicity Aston deliberately chose women with no athletic or Arctic experience with the intention of demonstrating that anybody can achieve their goals with determination.
As Hamidaddin discovered, however, having an expert on hand helps. The transition from frostnip to frostbite can be a matter of five or 10 minutes, so it is essential for people in extreme weather to pay attention to their body. The tiniest sign can help avoid severe consequences.
The 32-year-old had followed all the instructions learned during training camps in Iceland and Oman: She kept moving to circulate her blood and had not removed her gloves even once in the Arctic. She felt pain, yes, but the entire team had frostnip, so why should she consider quitting?
Fortunately for her future — and her fingers — the decision was taken for her.
“There was no proper moment where I realized I had frostbite,” Hamidaddin told Arab News after returning to the heat of Saudi Arabia. “If it was up to me, I would have wanted to continue, so I am extremely thankful that I was asked to evacuate because the frostbite gradually got worse and worse.
Basically, the team leader saved my fingers.”
Two weeks later and Hamidaddin still could not feel her fingertips. She struggles to cut a steak and needs help to tie her shoelaces. Medics say it could be months or even years before she fully recovers.
This month on her Instagram feed @InTuneToTheSound, she is posting photos of her journey in non-chronological order. The intention is to be “open and vulnerable and hopefully inspire people.” In a post, a video shows her typing at a computer using only her right pinky finger.
“There is a negative media perception of what a Saudi woman looks like and what she can and can’t do,” said Hamidaddin. “For this reason, it’s important for us to show that what you see in the media isn’t necessary a true reflection of who we truly are.
“It is also important to share our failures as well because when I see success upon success, I cannot connect with that. I am human, I have weakness and I fall, and I need to know that when I fall, I can rise again. Those stories are the ones that will connect most with people.”
With Saudi Arabia women now competing at the Olympic Games, being allowed to attend football matches at certain stadiums and the imminent lifting of a ban on driving, opportunities for women in the Kingdom are blossoming.
Hamidaddin, founder of the Humming Tree, a co-working space and community center that focuses on creativity and wellbeing, said she sees examples of strong, athletic and confident women every day.
“You can see them everywhere — women running, biking, climbing mountains,” she said.
“So we are already there. It’s just a matter of sharing these stories more. We are strong women; we know what we want and we find a way around it. We do what we need to do and we get it done. The fact that driving now is going to be open for us, just makes all that easier.”
Although Hamidaddin’s journey to the North Pole was cut short, the team’s doctor said she could wait out the expedition in the warmth of base camp and celebrate with her team when they reached their destination.
It was an opportunity that, even with frostbite, she was never going to turn down. What she found at the top of the world was a beautiful, dreamlike landscape — and, perhaps fittingly, a perpetual chase to reach her goal.
“Unlike the South Pole, which is a landmass, the North Pole is a constantly drifting landscape. It’s sea ice on top of the Arctic Ocean and it’s always moving, so you are constantly trying to catch it,” she said.
“One minute you’re on top of the world taking a photo and by the time you’re done taking it, well, the North Pole is a few miles away. You have to keep trying to catch it.”