Mina, Oct. 25
The drive from Jeddah to Mina on Tuesday evening was easier than any of us anticipated. Along the way we passed busloads of pilgrims. The three checkpoints were a breeze and we glided right through, without any major delays or incidents, arriving at Mina by dusk. We left our car at the outskirts of Mina, as only 4x4 vehicles are permitted into the city.
Mina was a quiet refuge from the hustle and bustle of Makkah. However, the stillness didn’t last long. By midnight, the trickle of incoming pilgrims had turned into a surge. Some pilgrims wore an expression of confused bewilderment, as they were unable to locate their camps, amid the sea of white tents.
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For those who are unaware of the topography of the holy sites, Mina is about 5 km from the Grand Mosque in Makkah. It is a small valley and during Haj season tents occupy the entire landscape as far as the eye can see. The entrances to many of the tents, especially the ones for Pakistanis, Indians and Africans, are decorated with banners and festoons. These decorations help the pilgrims identify their temporary residences, from among the sea of white tents enveloping them. Huge balloons also hung in the sky in certain locations, to help pilgrims find their tents. Security officers could also be seen everywhere.
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Most of the pilgrims carry cell phones and smart phones, but these devices provide them with a false sense of security. When a pilgrim is lost he/she has a tendency to telephone his group leader for instructions. Unfortunately, since most pilgrims have absolutely no idea of the geography of Mina they can neither give a clear description of their location, nor are they able to follow directions to their camps. The only usefulness achieved from contacting the group leader, is notifying someone that you are lost.
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The pilgrims arrive in Mina with mixed feelings of trepidation, joy and introspection. Pilgrims undergo a natural phase of contemplation throughout their Haj journey, as they reflect upon deeds committed, and pray for forgiveness and inspiration.
On the 9th of Dul Hijjah, which this year falls on Thursday, Oct. 25, pilgrims will bare their hearts before Almighty Allah on the plains of Arafat and beseech Him to forgive them and bless them with their greatest desires. What tops the list of their prayers is often secret, perhaps something that they would admit to no one but God. However, most prayers are for the general good of humanity, especially a prayer for peace in countries like Syria, Lebanon, Afghanistan, Palestine, Kashmir, Myanmar and Libya.
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All the pilgrims who performed Haj during previous years, expressed to Arab News reporters their awe at the changes that have taken place over the last two decades in the two holy cities. The great changes in the infrastructure and roads, as well as the rail network, are all remarkable developments.
Moreover, managing over three million people year after year is a huge logistical challenge. The Kingdom of Saudi Arabia has not only measured up to this challenge, but has also done an excellent job. In the past, the journey to the two holy cities was full of adventure, perils and danger. Traveling the long distance to the holy cities usually meant being part of a caravan, as there were no airplanes to transfer eager pilgrims to the holy sites.
According to one writer, there were three main caravans for pilgrims: The Egyptian caravan originating in Cairo, the Iraqi one from Baghdad and the Syrian one, which, after the fall of Constantinople in 1453, originated in Istanbul.
“As the journey took months if all went well,” the writer notes, “the pilgrims carried with them the provisions they needed to sustain them on their trip. The caravans were elaborately supplied with amenities and security, if the people onboard were rich. However, the poor often ran out of provisions and had to interrupt their journey in order to work, save their earnings and then continue their journey. This resulted in long journeys which, in some cases, spanned 10 years or more.”
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Many journalists from newspapers, news agencies, and television channels, are covering Haj. Among these journalists is Jamal Elshayyal, a news producer with Al Jazeera English television channel. In his poignant reflections about Haj, he writes, “As millions of Muslims circuit the Kaaba, it is impossible to differentiate the rich from the poor, the educated from the illiterate, the prince from the pauper – each one of them is wearing the same type of cloth, each has shed their worldly belongings in submission to their Lord. In recognition, that ultimately, when they stand before their Lord, it is not their status in society, nor their bank balance or job title that matters. It is what is in their heart that is infinitely more meaningful.”
