Lagerfeld reaches for immortality with Chanel Paris show

A model presents a creation by German designer Karl Lagerfeld as part of his Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2018/2019 collection show for fashion house Chanel at the Grand Palais in Paris. (Reuters)
Updated 03 July 2018

Lagerfeld reaches for immortality with Chanel Paris show

  • Karl Lagerfeld made a pitch for immortality by setting his Chanel Paris haute couture show in front of the Academie Francaise
  • Much of the collection had a revved-up retro late 1940s feel with models’ hair styled in cockerel quiffs and some wearing fascinator hats

PARIS: Legendary designer and bibliophile Karl Lagerfeld made a pitch for immortality Tuesday by setting his Chanel Paris haute couture show in front of the Academie Francaise.
The venerable institution, whose members are knowns as “the immortals,” was the centerpiece of a spectacular set featuring the banks of the Seine that Lagerfeld had built inside the Grand Palais in the French capital.
Everything from the bouquinistes booksellers — dressed in Chanel of course — with their vintage Vogue magazines and tomes on Chanel, to the Paris pavements and embankments was recreated in staggeringly realistic detail.
All it lacked to pass for the real thing was the tourist tat and a few beggars.
At 84, the Kaiser is now too old to be admitted into any of the academies housed below the gilded dome of Institut de France which act as the guardians of French culture.
Lagerfeld is in fact nearly a decade over the age limit to be a sage, yet the German-born designer shows no signs of slowing.
He still designs for Chanel in Paris and Fendi in Rome — even though of late he has been a little doddery on his feet.
There was, however, almost a spring in his step on Tuesday as he took the bow for a classily restrained autumn winter haute couture collection marked by slit dresses and sleeves.
“Karl is as fresh as a bridegroom,” Conde Nast maven Karina Dobrotvorskaya cooed on Instagram over her picture of him with his “bride,” the traditional finale of couture shows.
Lagerfeld’s godsons Hudson and Jameson Kroenig — the sons of his favorite male model, the square-jawed American Brad Kroenig — were also at his side after playing the part of riverside booksellers in the show with their father.
Like the Dior show the previous day, Lagerfeld went for a refined sobriety of sharply-cut black and grey slit dresses, worn over short thigh-riding miniskirts.
Many were lit up by flashes of crystals, feathers and glittery-edged embroidery, which pointed up the zipped slit arms.
While much of the collection had a revved-up retro late 1940s feel with models’ hair styled in cockerel quiffs and some wearing fascinator hats, there were also Belle Epoque Victorian flourishes in satin and tulle dresses with glittery tweed capes and long fingerless gloves.
Haute couture shows — which only take place in Paris — are the creme de la creme of fashion.
Thousands of hours of work sometimes goes into the handmade dresses that can only be afforded by the richest women on the planet.
The label is accorded by the French industry ministry to acknowledge traditional craftsmanship in hand-sewn, custom-made garments using strict criteria.
Only 14 fashion houses currently boast the recognition, including Chanel, Christian Dior, Giambattista Valli, Givenchy, Jean-Paul Gaultier, Maison Margiela, Schiaparelli, Alexis Mabille and Stephane Rolland.


Arab Fashion Week spotlights Lebanese, Saudi designers in Dubai

Jeddah-based designer Nora Al-Shaikh showcased her Spring/Summer 2020 line. (Supplied)
Updated 12 October 2019

Arab Fashion Week spotlights Lebanese, Saudi designers in Dubai

DUBAI: Designers Dhruv Kapoor, Hussein Bazaza, Daniele Carlotta, Nora Al-Shaikh and Rami Kadi showed off their latest collections at Arab Fashion Week in Dubai on Friday.

We take a look at highlights from the five shows that wowed the well-heeled front row. 

Hussein Bazaza – Lebanon

Bazaza showcased his latest collection “Experiment 2020,” which the designer says was created by his imaginary high school friend Portu.

(Arab News)

Dhruv Kapoor — India

Kapoor presented his Spring/Summer 2020 collection. From hyper-feminine silhouettes to oversize boyfriend fits, each piece was wildly different. Patchwork florals temple-inspired rustic prints and grunge-inspired stripes formed this eclectic collection.

(Supplied)

Daniele Carlotta – Italy

 Carlotta specializes in materials and hails from a family with a long history of working in the business.

(Supplied)

Nora Al-Shaikh – Saudi Arabia

Jeddah-based designer Al-Shaikh showcased her Spring/Summer 2020 line, for which she took inspiration from her Saudi heritage. According to the designer, she designs for contemporary women and tries to create clothes that can be worn anywhere in the world.

(Supplied)

Rami Kadi – Lebanon

The Lebanese designer Rami Kadi showcased his Fall/Winter 2019-2020 collection “The Temple of Flora,” in which florals are the main design element. The collection was inspired by Taschen’s reprint of “The Temple of Flora,” a box set portfolio of illustrations by Robert John Thornton that was originally published in 1799. Kadi’s collection features hand-painted plastic leaves and 3D-knitted, iridescent sequins.

(Supplied)