Top trends for next spring from global fashion weeks

The international fashion weeks in New York, Paris, London and Milan recently were a mix of physical shows and digital presentations. (Getty)
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Updated 23 October 2020

Top trends for next spring from global fashion weeks

  • Six of the hottest tips from the catwalks (virtual or otherwise) of fashion month

MILAN: Thanks to the COVID-19 pandemic, the international fashion weeks in New York, Paris, London and Milan recently were a mix of physical shows and digital presentations. And it wasn’t just the events themselves that were affected by the coronavirus — many designers from around the world showed collections that were clearly influenced by social-distancing and lockdown, in often-contradictory ways. Whether that was the somber color palette of Simone Rocha in London, the face coverings and gloves that dominated several shows, or the more subtle nods to our ‘interesting times’ through the DIY vibe of crochet (Alberta Ferretti, for instance), the unexpected return of the sweatsuit (particularly predominant in New York Fashion Week), and the aspirational glamour of flamboyance and glitter. Tom Ford, who presented his Spring ’21 lookbook via video, provided plenty of the latter and suggested it was because he wanted to present clothes that “make us feel good” and hold out “hope of a happier time.” A sentiment that — regardless how you felt about his sequin-usage — was hard to find fault with.

MAKE IT MONOCHROME

Some designers — Molly Goddard in London, Salvatore Ferragamo in Milan — went bright, others were more muted — Max Mara’s sand and beige, say — and some were both — Boss in Milan, with shocking pink, cream, and sand examples. But they all seemed to agree that single-color clothing will be en vogue in spring next year. It’s bold and confident, certainly, and hopefully reflects how consumers might be feeling by the end of the winter.

CLASH CULTURE

If monochrome isn’t your thing, maybe you’ll feel more at home with another major — almost opposite — trend that saw many designers stamping all over conventional fashion wisdom. Cardinal sins were everywhere: Mixing colors that ‘shouldn’t’ be mixed (Pucci’s multi-colored tights), pairing patterns that shouldn’t be paired (stripes and squares!), throwing in animal prints willy-nilly, or, like Sunnei, constructing a shirt dress from four different plaid patterns. It was chaos, and all the better for it

GO BIG

Oversized clothing was everywhere in fashion month. Boss (again) had large sporty jackets in its Tik-Tok-streamed show; Louis Vuitton’s Paris show displayed a largely asexual collection — plenty of oversized jackets and blazers, along with ‘roomy’ pants; and Chloé paired voluminous blouses with high-waisted shorts and trousers. And mammoth handbags were ubiquitous throughout the month. Some observers suggested the super-sized clothes encouraged/forced those around to grant the wearer more personal space in these socially distanced times, others saw them as a throwback to Eighties power dressing. Either way, big is in.

ENCOURAGING ESCAPISM 

From Tom Ford’s aforementioned sparkly sequins in New York to Molly Goddard’s dazzling A-line dresses in London via the floral prints beloved by Loewe in Paris and Valentino and Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini in Milan (the latter put on an open-air show, whether because of COVID or because flowers were such a dominant motif we’re not sure), many designers were clearly aiming to lift our collective spirits with a healthy dose of bright, bright beauty. And who could blame them?

HOT HISTORY 

For the last couple of years, retro fashion has been dominated by Eighties and Nineties throwbacks. If Simone Rocha and Erdem, to name but two, are to be believed, we’ll be looking a little further back for spring 2021 — almost 100 years further back. Rocha’s understated collection showed clear Victorian and Edwardian influences with its puffy sleeves, voluminous skirts and high necklines, while Erdem’s dramatic collection also pulled from Ye Olde Worlde, but somehow managed to seem more up-to-date than anyone.

PIMP YOUR PPE

Whether the non-medical-grade facemasks (see Oak & Acorn, Rick Owens) or other face coverings (Chanel’s veils or Paco Rabanne’s sequined hoods) and gloves (Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini’s rubber gardening gloves or Fendi’s bodysuits with attached gloves) are really what designers believe we’ll want to be wearing in the spring or simply a recognition of the current global situation it’s hard to say. But they were certainly impossible to ignore.


Kim Kardashian West can’t get enough of this part-Arab designer

Updated 01 December 2020

Kim Kardashian West can’t get enough of this part-Arab designer

DUBAI: Kim Kardashian West loves her some Amina Muaddi heels. 

Whether she’s sporting the brand’s Lupita sandals for an at-home photo shoot or celebrating hitting 190 million followers on Instagram wearing the Holli slingbacks, the “Keeping Up With the Kardashians” star often champions pieces from the Jordanian-Romanian footwear designer.

This week, the reality television star and entrepreneur was recently spotted wearing a design from the Paris-based brand yet again. 

Kardashian West posted a series of snaps on Instagram  in which she’s wearing a bold outfit — complete with glistening blue, leather trousers and a fitted turtleneck top — which she accessorized with a pair of Muaddi’s in-demand heels.

The heels she picked out were the Jordanian-Romanian designer’s Begum glass pumps in blue, featuring a starburst buckle detail on the shoe’s vamp and the brand’s signature flared heel. 

Kardashian West championed theItaly-made brand just a couple of weeks after Muaddi made her foray into handbags and jewelry. The designer unveiled two entirely new creations, a satin handbag and crystal-embellished earrings alongside her Fall 2020 collection of shoes.

 The celebrity-loved footwear designer first announced the news that she would be expanding her footwear empire with a range of handbags titled Aminis in September via a series of images of the new bags being manufactured.

Muaddi’s cult brand has garnered a loyal following of famous fans, including Dua Lipa, Gigi Hadid, Kylie Jenner, Kendall Jenner and Hailey Baldwin Bieber among many others.

Her most famous collaboration to date is the limited-edition footwear capsule collection with multi-hyphenate superstar Rihanna’s Fenty, which dropped in July. 

The 34-year-old recently dropped her second footwear collection with Fenty following the sellout success of the first Amina Muaddi x Fenty line.

The partnership is set to be honored as Collaborator of the Year at the upcoming 34th edition of the FN Achievement Awards, which is set to go virtual on Dec. 8. 

Previous recipients of the Collaborator of the Year honor at the annual FN Achievement Awards – often called the “Shoe Oscars” – have included Tommy Hilfiger and Kith’s Ronnie Fieg.