There is magic in the streets of Montreal as August arrives and summer begins to slip slowly away. It is then that the number of festivals in the city begin to slow down and the merriment takes on a certain urgency. To the uninitiated, it appears that the people enjoying the nocturnal frolics are other tourists, making the most of their trips into Canada and their experiences of Canadian culture. In fact, the people who generate the joyous atmosphere that we holidaymakers enjoy are residents of a city that will be soon be covered in snow for six long months. September is the last chance to indulge in summer and its celebrations. So the spell is cast, and there is magic in the cobblestoned streets that host jugglers and mimes, artists and doctors, tourists and travelers.
If you want to a slice of Europe without leaving North America, Montreal is the place to go. There is something fascinating about the European influences upon Montreal’s architecture. While the rest of Canada appears to take its cues from America, the province of Quebec has attached itself firmly to France and its French roots.
Four hours away by train, in Toronto, there is little to suggest that English and French are both Canada’s official languages.
In Montreal, on the other hand, the sound of French makes every visitor aware of the European influence. We wondered if it were the same language we had heard in Paris a month before. Eager to get an insider’s perspective, we wasted no time in asking the opinion of a French traveler we had met. According to him — Sebastien from Lyon — it was, “grammatically incorrect, very crude and also they try to mix in English with French and it doesn’t come out right.” When asked for an example, he said that the word for “car” in Quebec is “char” instead of the Parisian French “voiture”. Despite the language differences, Montreal is the second largest French-speaking city in the world.
We found Montreal to be full of friendly faces that came and went as they enjoyed the last days of summer. The cool evenings hinted at colder weather to come. Particularly captivating is Old Montreal, the site of the original French settlement in Canada. Because it is a historic district, nothing can be added or altered.
Horse-drawn carriages full of sightseeing tourists along the St. Lawrence River, multitudes of little auberges (bed and breakfasts) seem to stay full and culture vultures mob the museums. Walk around Old Montreal and you will find that the streets wind around each other, wrapping you in a meandering maze of merriment: clubs, restaurants, cafes, and boutiques all cater to the consumer’s every whim!
For lunch:
Creme de la Creme — on the riverfront. The warm sandwiches are spectacular. The atmosphere is cozy with a dash of international music to add a trendy edge to this lovely little cafe.
La Creperie — The cheese fondue and the chocolate fondue were truly terrific.
For dinner:
Piccolo Diavolo — 1336 St. Catherine Street. It is an upbeat little restaurant with excellent service. The food was fabulous and the prices were reasonable.
Area — 1429 Amherst St. Reservations are necessary as it’s a favorite haunt of fashionable. Spices are subtly worked into meals and the food is the result of a fusion of French, Italian and Asian influences.
Casa de Mateo — 440 St. Francois Xavier. This is as close to Mexico as you’ll get without going there! A Mexican villa interior has been created. The service is fast and friendly and the enchiladas are the most delectable dish in Old Montreal!
Accommodation:
Auberge Bonaparte — 447 Rue St-Francois-Xavier. A 48-room boutique hotel with services and a French restaurant that has Montreal in raptures. Price range: $95-$195.
Casa de Mateo — 438 Rue St-Francois-Xavier. There is one apartment for rent in the entire building. If you can get it, count yourself amongst the blessed who have uncovered the secret to affordable accommodation without compromising on style. In Old Montreal. $700 for a week’s stay.
Auberge Alternative du Vieux-Mtl — 358 Rue St-Pierre. A little youth hostel in Old Montreal. The cheapest lodging in the city at $20 per person and you get a bunk bed. For $50 you can have a tasteful gold and burgundy room for two. Book well in advance!
Things to do:
Go rafting! The rapids are perfect for beginners — thrilling but not terrifying.
Walk around. Absorb the atmosphere as sunset washes the streets of Old Montreal in shades of gold — perfect for picture taking.
Tam Tam Jam. Every Sunday from spring to fall, Montrealers congregate at the Jacques Cartier Monument next to Park Avenue to enjoy the warm weather and listen to the rhythmic beats of hundreds of percussionists.
