I love the way the world can continually astonish you. I find a place in New Zealand’s mountains that makes my spirit soar and think there’s nowhere else that can compare and then, two days later, find myself staring with deep curiosity into the swirling waters of the Whanganui River. It’s undeniable that much of the beauty of this country has to be worked for, however, and a three-kayaking trip seems like the perfect way to find that place of deep inner peace, nestled in the arms of Mother Nature.
I’ve been invited on a New Year trip by two New Zealand kayaking leaders from a club in Auckland – Shane and Bruce – who tell me cheerfully, with macho bravado and a complete lack of sympathy, that most people start complaining that their arms are aching beyond relief after day one. They then proceed to tell me that the river can be extremely dangerous when the river level is high, due to the tree roots and branches which become concealed under the water and can trap and drown even the most proficient kayaker. I am not deterred – I’ve done some background reading and know that in normal flows, the Whanganui is an extremely safe river to kayak. My trusty guidebook tells me there are only Grade 2 and 3 rapids on the river, with the most exciting — the Ngaporo and Autapu — on the last day going into Pipiriki.
Many of the rapids on the upper reaches of this river are actually relatively gentle and make a perfect training ground for beginners. Children can sneak by down the side of them if they want to, but half the fun on hot summer days is falling out and picking yourself up again at the bottom of the rapid. If it’s real white water adventure you’re after, though, you should go elsewhere. As we paddle along into the depths of the green beyond, it becomes clear that the Whanganui is an isolated waterway that slowly takes you miles and miles away from civilization — a thought that fills some people with horror and me with nothing other than delight. Maori people traveled up this spectacular route for centuries before the first Europeans ventured on exploration trips upstream. When the latter discovered how scenic the Whanganui was, passing through deep and impressive gorges surrounded by dense forest, they quickly named it the “Rhine of the South Pacific”, and so developed its international reputation as being one of the “eight wonders of the world.“
As soldiers returned from World War I, the river became the only means of reaching new farms being developed along its banks and tributaries, including the ill-fated Mangapurua Valley, home of the famous Bridge to Nowhere — a large bridge suspended across a gorge leading to nowhere in particular, as the property due to be built on the land opposite was never constructed. You can stretch your legs and make the short walk to see it half-way down the river near the Mangapurua campsite. It occurs to me as we picnic there, that half the amusement of walking to the bridge may in fact be listening to tourists asking themselves why they’re so fascinated with looking at a bridge that doesn’t have a destination.
As we drift further into a meditative trance surrounded by numerous varieties of trees and ferns, I wonder whether this may be the only real way of getting away from it all for a few days in perfect safety — by physically placing yourself in an environment where nobody can reach you — something that’s almost unheard of in this troubled world of today. Just you and nature. Just as I’m thinking this, a jet boat looms in the distance, destined to adrenaline delirium nirvana. As it zaps past me like a giant gnat, I get a brief glimpse of some screaming Japanese ladies having the time of their life, and then realize that I’m about to be overturned by huge waves the boat has left in its wake. Heck, I mutter to nobody but myself while bracing in frustration, why does everybody want to go so fast?
For many visitors, one of the highlights of a trip up the Whanganui is to visit the former Maori settlements, with pa (fortified villages sites), the old kainga (village) sites and the unusual Hauhau niu poles of war and peace at Maraekowhai (at the confluence of the Whanganui and Ohura Rivers). You can also stay at the Tieke Marae — formerly a Department of Conservation hut — and share a living culture in its very simplest form. The Marae offers hut beds, which should be booked in advance. Alternatively, those wanting to warm up and recover from their various bouts of rapid-racing will find very reasonably priced campsites (some with a cold water shower and all with cooking areas) at various spots along the river.
Beyond the Tieke, I’m introduced to another of the river’s pleasures — capsizing. Shane has very helpfully put Bruce and me in an open Canadian canoe to go down the rapids in, in the hope that we will capsize, which will apparently teach us some vital river lessons. And capsize we do, very ungraciously, swearing at each other as we get catapulted in opposite directions into the cold water. I thank my lucky stars that I’m at least propelled in the same direction as the drifting paddle and boat, as Bruce starts revolving in small circles and gets sucked into an eddy. “Feet up!” he shouts. Images of strangling branches saturate my brain and my feet are up in an instant. A lad nearby attempts to rescue me by crushing my ribcage between his canoe and mine, and I decide life would be a lot easier if everybody just let me swim to the shore. “So how do you feel about capsizing Lucia?” Bruce asks me eagerly as I emerge from the water. “I feel wet, Bruce,” I reply, “how about you?”. Shane was right. Capsizing is a useful lesson, if only to realize that it’s not as bad as you thought it would be.
(Blazing Paddles Canoe Adventures offers canoe hire and guided trips up the Whanganui. Tel: 07 895 5261, Fax: 07 895 5263 (0800 252 946, www.blazingpaddles.co.nz, e: [email protected]). 1-day Taumarunui-Ohinepane ($50 pp). 2-day Taumarunui-Whakahoro ($100 pp). 3-day Whakahoro-Pipiriki ($125 pp), 4-day Ohinepane-Pipiriki ($130 pp), 5-day Taumarunui-Pipiriki ($140 pp). This price is based on hire of a Canadian or kayak for two people or more. Single rentals have a surcharge of $10 for a 1-day trip, $20 for a 2-day trip, $30 for a 3-day trip and $40 for a 4 or 5 day trip. Price includes all equipment hire, transport, insurance against breakage and GST. Not included is the DOC river pass or any other extras, including vehicle ferrying (to your exit point at an agreed time) and hire tents, wet suits, cooking equipment, sleeping mats, sleeping bags, and solar showers.)
Arab News Features 29 May 2003
