I have finally been back to Cairo after four years. Egypt is a place you like completely or dislike in the same way. For me, it has always had a special place in my heart. The country and the people are certainly different from the rest of the world. Cairo is a city that never sleeps and Egyptians are acclaimed for their wittiness. Even the overcrowding and traffic jams add a unique flavor to the place.
I was so overwhelmed by my feelings as I set my foot on Egyptian soil that I promised to reunite my memories with my vision. On my way to the hotel, my eyes were wandering to catch a glimpse of the people and the streets. My first impression was that not much had changed since my last visit.
I checked into the hotel and then took a hotel cab. I had no intention of wasting any time. On my way to a shisha cafe I knew very well, the cab driver asked the usual question: “So where are you from? Saudi?” Next thing I knew the fare for a 10-minute drive was over 40 Egyptian pounds. My sister quickly pulled the money out of her purse and handed it to the driver. The last thing she wanted was an argument on our first day out. Again, I assured myself, saying not much had changed. I am not a first timer in Cairo and I certainly know how to handle this.
During the very few days I spent in Cairo, I had to face similar situations. Prices were doubled or even tripled when I was recognized as a Saudi. Although it may feel unnatural, we sometimes switch to the Egyptian dialect or let our Egyptian friends speak for us in order to get a reasonable price. For one like me who loves Egyptians, I find this awfully unfair. And sadly, Egypt is not the only place where this happens. Perhaps Saudis in other countries too experience similar problems.
It is so ironic realizing that we are looked at as gold mines or oil wells and it is just assumed that every Saudi lives in an extravagant way. No one seems to be aware that a sizable proportion of our society lives below the poverty line. We are still considered millionaires with money to burn — or at least throw away. Even by our neighbors who should know better. On second thought, however, speaking frankly, Saudis themselves have gone a long way in creating this image.
We have all seen individuals who work hard throughout the year and spend very little so that they can travel lavishly when the time comes. I have absolutely no objection to treating oneself, especially on a vacation, but sometimes people take it to extremes. Take leaving huge tips for example or thinking that any problem can be solved by money.
On more than one occasion, I noticed that when the service was bad and one wanted to complain the first sentence is “I am paying good money for this you know; I am not getting it for free” or “Just tell me how much and let’s get it over with.” Saudis also reserve tables in cafes and restaurants in strange ways. A table is reserved with money per hour with a late show or no shows at all. What matters after all is the name tag of the person on the table.
Before I went to Cairo this time, a friend gave me the number of a person who provides a unique service. “Just give her the passports and she will do the stamping for you so you don’t have to wait in line. A 200 pound tip will do.” Now why on earth would I consider such a service? Would it make me less of a person if I stood in line with other people? Apparently, some ask for such services.
Traveling is at the top of my leisure activities. Seeing different places, getting to know other cultures and meeting new people — these are all fascinating to me. To others, I have noticed, traveling is a chance to show off and brag. Egypt is very popular with this group and Egypt’s standard of living seems to encourage show-offs and braggarts. As I am writing, I recall the Saudi man who was cruising down one of Cairo’s main streets in his Maybach with a huge Saudi flag hung on the back of the car. How I wish that that flag had been there only for patriotic reasons.
We naturally feel annoyed when we are treated differently but the truth is, most of us want to be treated differently. Some really enjoy creating these wasteful image of us and our world, believing that doing so will make us important and envied. All of us of course pay the price for the behavior of the few. In any case, the next time we complain of being ripped off, we should stop and consider why.
(Safinaz Z. Murshid is a Saudi writer. She is based in Riyadh.)
