One of the most beautiful beaches in the Middle East is in Lebanon but few know about it. For the last few decades, visitors to the Land of Cedars have tended to remain in the capital. Beirutis themselves, especially the younger generation, were the first to stop going with their parents to traditional summer retreats nestled in the cool hills overlooking the Mediterranean Sea. For the majority, Beirut was the place where everything happened. Things, however, are changing fast.
Since the liberation of the southern part of the country, other cities have grown tremendously, especially Saida (hometown of the late Rafiq Hariri) which is situated 79 km from Beirut. Further south, lies the ancient city of Tyre, declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1979. It has some of the world’s most fascinating archaeological ruins, dating mostly from Roman times but also from the Phoenician, Greek and Byzantine eras.
Tyre reached the height of its power and glory in the first millennium B.C. and became the most important city on the Phoenician coast. It was famous for its purple dye which was used to color clothing. Both Tyre and Saida produce the finest purple dye; the pigment was extracted from a mollusk found on the Mediterranean shore. In the 4th century, ounces of the purple dye sold for the equivalent of thousands of dollars today. That is why it became known as “royal purple.” Interestingly, an early form of money — triangular pieces of leather — was also used in Tyre.
Trading has been the lifeblood of Tyre from its very beginning and the city’s prosperity attracted the envy of empire builders. It was besieged by the Babylonians, invaded by Alexander the Great and colonized by the Romans. The city has had a tumultuous history but it is really thanks to the Romans who built so much that there are so many beautiful historic sites.
There are two main historic areas in Tyre — the inland hippodrome area and the old city on the peninsula. The old city lies right beside the Mediterranean. The archaeological digs are on the southern side and feature huge marble paving stones and an ancient mosaic path. Further north are the ruins of a 5th century circus and the foundations of a medieval castle.
About a kilometer from the coast is Tyre’s hippodrome and necropolis, one of the largest Roman sites in the Mediterranean. The necropolis is a stunning group of tombs and sarcophagi dating from Roman and Byzantine times. The vast hippodrome was excavated about 80 years ago and is one of the biggest and best-preserved Roman sites in the world. The Triumphal Arch looms proudly over the impressive ruins.
Tyre also has a colorful traditional souk, an Ottoman inn and a Mamluk house which serves presently as a heritage and information center. The small but picturesque port is a delight. Sitting in one of the traditional restaurants, it is easy to imagine what Beirut was like a century ago. Tyre’s coast is lined with an incredible sandy coastal beach, which has now been declared an environmental marine reserve. This excellent decision will preserve for future generations the pristine beaches which are among the most beautiful in the Middle East.
If you have time, you can visit the village of Sarafand which is on the road to Saida from Tyre. The art of glass making is thought to have originated in Sarafand. The Khalifeh family, owners of the Blown Glass Handicraft Workshop are keeping the ancient Phoenician craft of glass blowing alive. Glass articles, including vases, dishes and candleholders in unusual shades, are available for sale at reasonable prices.
