On a day following several meetings with officials from the Pakistani government that ran later than scheduled, we missed our flight reservations to Lahore. Faced with the option to drive from Islamabad to Peshawar and take a flight to Lahore, or else take a four hour-drive to the Punjab city, the Saudi media delegation unanimously opted for the latter. The drive would provide us a closer insight into the countryside of a country that was quickly garnering admiration from each one of us by the moment.
A few miles out of the city of Islamabad we soon passed a tollbooth on the outskirts of the city and were soon on our way in a Toyota Crown graciously supplied by our host on the M2 expressway that would lead us to Lahore. A six-lane highway that was meticulously clean and well asphalted with none of the pot-holes and road carnage we have been so accustomed to in Jeddah had us all marvel at the will of the Pakistani road authorities who have indeed managed to maintain a world class motorway.
An hour into our journey, we passed through a hilly region noted on either side by well-planned trees and shrubbery. The road was clean and traffic laws strictly enforced. Road signs every few miles reminded motorists not to litter, and there was ample evidence that motorists paid heed. Our group was definitely taken aback with the ease and comfort of driving as we moved on. Contrary to our expectations, we did not witness one road incident that would have raised alarm.
Towns and villages flashed by; names like Kallar Kahhar, Chakwal, Gujran and Sarghoda sped by, each with its unique flavor. Some were farming villages, others terraced communities that lay on either side of the expressway. Halfway en route, a rest area beckoned us, and we decided to stop for a short break and some refreshments. Similar but so unlike the SAPTCO rest stop between Jeddah and Madinah, this rest stop afforded its guests a full-fledged restaurant and other amenities. The difference lay in its standards of cleanliness. Even the restrooms had us Saudis shaking our heads at the pitiful conditions some of us have encountered at the SAPTCO stop. And this was supposed to be a third world country?
As Lahore beckoned closer, cattle, sheep and goats graced either side of the motorway, their herders keeping an attentive eye on their herd. Haystacks and smoke columns for making and baking brick appeared far and wide, a sight alien to us tourists. Once past the final tollbooth, our driver pulled over to the side and inched closer to a patrol jeep with full armored commandos with their M-4 assault rifles and state of the art Glock 18 pistols.
Alarmed at the site and wondering if we were heading into a war zone, our guide mollified us by explaining that these were members of the Punjab Elite Forces that were generously detailed to us by the governor of Punjab not for protection but for navigating the crowded city streets of Lahore easier.
Although the basic premise of the US-trained Punjab Elite Force is to curb terrorism and serious crimes, we soon appreciated their commanding presence as they quickly shooed the traffic ahead to either side of the road making our journey to the hotel fast and unencumbered. With the “NO FEAR” logo visibly printed on their dark tee-shirts, our convoy was indeed a force to be reckoned with.
Our first evening in Lahore concluded with a visit to Anarkali Bazaar, reputed to be Lahore’s third gift to the world. Named after the famous courtesan of Emperor Akbar’s court, Anarkali is one of the most enchanting places in Lahore. The Bazaar is one of the oldest surviving markets in South Asia. Originating from the Mall near Lahore Museum, it’s a maze of narrow alleys and lanes stretching northward toward Old Lahore.
It has a captivating history related to the character after which it is named. According to the legend Mughal Emperor Akbar’s son Prince Salim fell in love with Anarkali, Emperor Akbar’s courtesan who was given the title of Anarkali or ‘Pomegranate Blossom’ due to her charm and beauty by the Emperor himself.
Anarkali Bazaar is a shopper’s heaven selling virtually everything from handicrafts to souvenirs; antiques to artifacts; electronics to every sort of clothing, ready-made garments and woven clothing. In scenes reminiscent of old downtown Jeddah, shopping is delightful here and bargaining is the order of the day. In addition to these shops, many sidewalk cafes afford a variety of dishes to suit any palate, and it was not long before our group sat at one of these outlets and immensely enjoyed a meal of barbequed delicacies along with a complement of fresh fruit juices.
It is indeed a bustling monument of activity to the living legend of Anarkali, and one that had us eventually pleasantly exhausted and ready to call it a night.
