It may
appear odd that a single designer — and in this particular instance, a menswear
designer — is on a list of such superlative national achievements. But, Al
Qasimi, isn’t your average fashion designer; what he’s been able to achieve so
far can only be a precursor for what is yet to come.
It’s no
secret the Arab fashion scene is burgeoning with talent, as well as the
talentless. In fact, there appears to be an influx of Arab “designers” — all of
them vying for the dimming limelight that lessens as the novelty of the once
mystic land of Arabia begins to globalize.
Qasimi
and his eponymous lines, QASIMI and QASIMI HOMME, are the real deal. Unlike
many, he doesn’t feed off his ethnicity, or his predominant Emirati family
background. Qasimi is a true designer who we are proud to claim as one of
us.
Since
QASIMI’s debut in 2008, the brand has progressed from catwalk to catwalk,
eventually culminating to a third consecutive on-schedule show during Paris
Fashion Week.
“It’s a
great honor to show among such established houses, like Rick Owens and
Givenchy,” stated Qasimi, referring to his invitation to show on-schedule in
Paris. “Editors and buyers are in abundance so it’s always good to have a
presence there.”
While he
may use the runway to get constructive criticism, Qasimi admits his biggest
critic is his mother. “She doesn’t butter anything up,” he said on his mother’s
tough love. “But she’s also my biggest supporter.”
Perhaps
it is his mother’s influence that has made Qasimi’s women’s line so addictively
coveted. His womenswear, which is best described as a wearable oriental fusion
of Balmain ornamentation and McQueen drapery, continues to be a huge sensation
in Europe and the United States. Lady Gaga, Jessica Alba, and other A-listers
are feigning for his next installment of structured silhouettes and ornate
outwear, but they may have to wait longer than just next season.
“I’m
focusing on menswear at the moment,” stated the designer. “QASIMI is always
evolving. It’s still growing and at the moment, I feel like I need to focus on
menswear.”
Working
with a plethora of renowned stylists including Way Perry and Robbie Spencer,
Qasimi collaborated with distinguished fashion photographer, Mariano Vivanco,
to create a poignant film for QASIMI HOMME’s debut breakaway SS10 collection.
Ever since, the luxury label has since garnered an impressive coverage from the
international press, including Vogue Homme Japan, L’Officiel Homme, and Seventh
Man. With his latest saga on the catwalk, Qasimi reinterprets his Middle
Eastern roots into a contemporary collection of pure minimalism and sleek
lines, entitled “The Empty Quarter.”
Qasimi’s
SS11 collection draws inspiration from this desolate terrain in the Middle
East, while “probing into the rural wilderness of a cross-cultural desert trek
through time.” Beckoning a past era of nomadic tradition and mystical essence,
yet consummating with the future of international fashion, Qasimi gives birth
to a unique identity on the catwalks that has yet to be achieved so seamlessly.
“I’m
constantly striving for perfection; trying to achieve something ethereal,”
stated Qasimi. “It’s a journey of discovery.”
Qasimi
admits his works are echoes of his own experience and feelings. “It’s a post-oriental
view on Western imperialism,” he revealed. “It’s in me, and so I referenced it…
It’ll always be in me.”
This
latest collection exudes the signature tailoring that has become synonymous
with the luxury brand. “Lines are minimal and clean,” described Qasimi.
Disappearing
lapels on suits, high collars, and slit pockets, reference traditional Middle
Eastern garb, while the sleeveless suiting, oversized shirting and unlined
linen jackets are mixed with the rugged panache of oversized hooded tops all of
which are underlined with a hint of the militant masculinity.
“This
season, QASIMI took more risk in the form of leather pieces,” he stated,
referring to the appearance of leather in the form of sleeveless jackets and
subtle accents. “We also had a lot
of knits and jersey, a staple in everyone’s closet nowadays.”
Fine
delicate cotton and transparent technical fabrics are ironically utilized for
outerwear in the form of flawless tailored trenches.
“The
color palette is inspired by the Empty Quarter — the sand, sun, rocks,”
revealed Qasimi. Stark black is synthesized with muted earth browns and pale
grays, giving its military sophistication a softer, more organic edge.
With the
unveiling of geometrical prints for the first time, Qasimi dissected Arabesque patterns
to create original prints that are quintessentially his. “The prints are
developed from Islamic tiling found during a Jordanian expedition,” he
revealed. “The prints were then reworked to achieve a more geometric form.”
The
headbands are a contemporary interpretation (in various neutral colors) of the
traditional men’s black [italics] egal [italics]. “It’s a minimal take of the
traditional headdress of the Middle East, I incorporated it to level out
proportion of the look. I knew I wanted some kind of headgear and that was what
ultimately came out.” Even his hidden hoods, once opened, undeniably reflect
the triangular shape of the Arabian [italics] shomagh [italics].
The
QASIMI man is a romantic rebel,” explained Qasimi. “He is poetic, yet he is a fighter.”
