Heading to Aswan after a crammed three-day visit to Luxor, I planned a more relaxed itinerary that took off with a visit to the Nubian Museum. Today’s borders split the land of Nubia between Egypt and Sudan. In the 1970s and when Egypt’s ambitious High Dam project came into completion, an enormous man-made lake began to form. Lake Nasser inundated huge swathes of Nubia forcing a 100,000-strong Nubian community to resettle. Today, the Nubian Museum pays tribute to all that is Nubian; from history and heritage to culture and tradition. Using state of the art technology, the museum follows a chronological order as it takes you on a Nubian journey through the ages. Take a profound look at the statues that date back to the Ancient Egyptian eras, and note the differences in features versus those you see elsewhere in the country; they do look more African than Egyptian. My most favourite part of the museum is the “Modern Nubia” section. It displays day-to-day tools and artifacts some Nubians still use, as well as gilded jewelry; a living proof of the sophistication of the Nubians and their civilization.
The building of the High Dam didn’t only threaten the land and its people, but also the archaeological sites Nubia hosted. Most of the sites were under direct threat of being lost forever due to increasing water levels. A UNESCO-led campaign with the objective of saving the sunken treasures of Nubia was launched. Thankfully, the campaign proved a success and the majority of Nubia’s sites were moved to higher ground. One of these sites is the Temple Complex of Philae. The rich-in-monuments complex encompasses three temples and two structures that date back to the Ptolemaic period. The Temple of Isis is the complex’s star attraction. Dedicated to Isis, the once pagan temple was actually turned into a church as per the orders of Roman Emperor Justinian I. Wander through its hypostyle hall and note the crosses engraved on almost every column. While the Temple of Augustus leads to the Gate of Diocletian with its panoramic view of the river Nile, the unfinished Temple of Hathor is renowned for its reliefs depicting musicians. The Kiosk of Trajan is a grand structure that illustrates Emperor Trajan making offerings to the Ancient Egyptian deities of Isis, Osiris, as well as Horus.
No visit to Aswan is complete without a felucca sail. Felucca is a local type of sail boat Egyptians once depended on when traveling up and down the Nile. Today, its function is mainly touristic with much of Aswan’s Corniche dotted with feluccas for rent. A felucca sail in Aswan is by far the best felucca experience you could have anywhere in Egypt; here the Nile is at its widest and most beautiful. Vivid blue waters with grey boulders rising here and there and an amazingly beautiful contrast of lush green and barren yellow in the backdrop; it is one of nature’s masterpieces. Nature lovers can extend their felucca sail and head to the Nile islands of Saluga and Ghazal. Declared a natural protectorate in 1986, the twin islands offer a great opportunity for bird watching. From ibis and cormorant to heron and moorhen, the list of species is quite lengthy. Just make sure your camera batteries are fully charged.
Aswan is Egypt’s gate to sub-Saharan Africa, and an important trading center as well. While shopping in Aswan, you will come across more than the typical micro seized pyramids, and ancient Egyptian stone-carved statuettes that you find elsewhere in Egypt. Here there are more African goods on display. There are a variety of artifacts that include dark wooden statues of animals and people, as well as typical African masks known for their extreme expressions and vivid colours. Aswan also is a major hub for spice trading, and a plethora of spices can be purchased here; from black, white, green, and red pepper to coriander, curry, and saffron. Don’t forget to buy plenty of hibiscuses; this is the best quality in the whole of Egypt.
The tranquil town of Aswan is certainly not as monument-rich as Luxor but it still has its own peculiar attractions; from the sunken treasures of Nubia and its dedicated museum to relaxing felucca sails and bird-infested river islands. Don’t skip Aswan when heading to Egypt.
Fly Dubai flies Luxor from Dubai thrice a week.
Most of Aswan is built on the eastern side of the Nile; hence, it is where most accommodation places are located. However, if you are looking for a relaxing accommodation option away from the maiden crowds, head to Anakato on the western bank. An original Nubian house turned guesthouse, Anakato comes in with bold colors, traditional Nubian architecture marked with domes and arches, individually designed rooms and furniture. Such exlcusive features outweigh the cons of its disdained location where you may need to commute with a boat to and from the town of Aswan.
Website: www.anakato.com
Tel: +2 97 3451744
If you prefer to stay in the heart of the action and looking for something more mainstream, then the moderately priced Isis Hotel Aswan is your best bet.
Tel: +2 97 2315100
At time of writing, both the Old and New Cataract, Aswan’s most reputed hotels, were still closed for renovation. Plans mark Sept. 2011 as the reopening date, so keep an open eye.
