In 2008, the souk was given new lease of life and revived with new facilities on a prepared showground that occupies the site of the original souk. Backed with funding and manpower by the Saudi Commission for Tourism and Antiquities, the organizers hope to develop it into a leading tourist attraction in the Kingdom.
Once a year for 10 days, the showground bursts into a riot of color and noise that attracts huge crowds to the venue some 40 km northwest of Taif.
The modern iteration of the ancient souk offers not only opportunities for small craft businesses and individuals to trade for a few days but incorporates poetry competitions and recitations, always a staple for the festival, and newer art forms including live theater and photography.
To visit Souk Okaz is to banish a few expatriate preconceptions about the occasionally dour Saudis. Far from a silent massing of inexpressive individuals, it has a real event feel with families mingling, excited children buzzing about in swarms and attaching themselves in temporary companionship with other groups.
For the European visitor particularly, there is a clear and present danger of getting repetitive strain injury from the constant hand-shaking and shouts of “Welcome” or drowning in a sea of sweet tea proffered by stallholders and exhibitors alike.
The showground, while laid out for access, is still under construction — but therein lies the charm. It feels slightly frayed and not over-organized, allowing the spontaneity of the crowd free rein. It is a case of walk where you will, sit where you will and expect to engage in any number of conversations.
The exhibits include formal displays promoting projects and organizations within the Kingdom, all there to introduce the public to what is going on in their country. The SCTA and the National Wildlife and Research Center are but two of them and a visit to both reveal the depth and seriousness that these organizations apply to their work.
At the other end of the spectrum, veiled women sit in tented booths perhaps weaving, selling clothes or jewelry. A knife maker sits cross legged negotiating vigorously with potential customers while basket makers and a musical instrument maker adopt a far more relaxed approach to business and casually accept notes for goods almost as a polite aside.
Occupying some of the large display tents are exhibitions of Saudi art, but the best of the graphic displays surely is the exquisite calligraphy on show. Centered on holy texts, the skill and inventiveness of the calligrapher is quite remarkable, and quietly announces years of patient practice and devotion.
There are also horses and camels. No Saudi festival would be complete without them and they are there in force, with riders demonstrating their skills with the animals.
An unusual addition was the live theater, showcasing traditional stories on a sandy stage before an enraptured crowd. It is a rare experience to be seated among the crowd and watch legends unfold in something close to the setting they took place in; and if you need a couple of camels or a warrior on a horse for effect, you get real ones.
Souk Okaz is on daily until the end of this week. While open during the day, it is when evening closes in that the real magic enlivens this uniquely Saudi experience.
