A Swiss lake in the heart of Africa

Nestled midst the hills on an altitude of almost two kilometers an African lake is dotted with 29 lush green islands. The weather is cold and the early morning mist adds to the mystical ambience. You might guess you were in Switzerland or perhaps Nepal, but never in landlocked Uganda. Mohamed El Hebeishy ventures off the beaten track toward Lake Bunyonyi.
Uganda is an emerging safari destination often overshadowed by its neighboring tourism prima donna — Kenya. Opting for Uganda, I had a remarkable one-week itinerary packed with game drives in Queen Elizabeth National Park, a boat cruise in Murchison Falls National Park, and of course, Uganda’s signature activity — gorilla tracking in Bwindi Impenetrable National Park. After such a heavy dose of hopping around, I was longing for some R&R. And where would I find a better sport for that than at Lake Bunyonyi?
Ditching the main highway at Kabale, I drove for less than ten minutes over a typical African side road, a reddish dirt road that zigzags through thick foliage. After some eight kilometers, the road came to an end and I was on the shores of Lake Bunyonyi.
I never truly experienced the term “out of this world” until I made it to this lake. Not only do the location and the ambience create the mood, but also the lack of essentialities we often take for granted in the big cities. To illustrate, the lodge I was heading for, was built on an island. To reach that lodge, I had to use a dugout canoe. My room was a lovely wooden cottage that traded electricity for candles and a flush toilet for a more eco-friendly composting version that treats biological waste instead of just flushing it away.
Lake Bunyonyi is not all about scenic views and mystic vibes; the lake comes with a couple of easygoing activities as well. Rent a dugout canoe and go for a leisurely tour around the lake and its lush green islands. And if you are not in the mood to exert that kind of effort, you can simply put on your swimsuit and take a dip in the cold and refreshing water. No need to worry, Lake Bunyonyi is one of the few lakes in sub-Saharan Africa that is free of hippos, crocodiles, and most importantly the bilharzia parasite.
The real deal here, when it comes to activities, is bird watching. In the local tongue, Bunyonyi is the “place of many little birds” and no doubt bird watchers will have the time of their lives. The aptly named lake is teemed with a plethora of various bird species that include cormorants, ibises, sunbirds, flycatchers, sparrows, and weavers. Not to mention Grey-crowned Crane, Uganda’s national bird, which is part of the nation’s flag. Circumnavigating Bushara Island, where I was staying, I recorded fifteen bird species in about half an hour.
Uganda is such an amazing destination that often slips our travel calendars, but if you get a chance to visit, make Lake Bunyonyi part of your itinerary. After all, who can afford missing out on a Swiss-like lake right in the heart of Africa?