Say the word “California” and most people think of Los Angeles, Hollywood and Disneyland; and maybe San Diego and its capital Sacramento. But its Central Coast is a visual masterpiece. Its 80 miles of pristine, sandy beaches has earned it the reputation as one of the most scenic in the world and it is designated as one of American’s Scenic Byways. Once there, you drive parallel to one of the most consistently dramatic coastlines in the US — Highway 1.
And, along the way you’ll meet laid back Californians — hospitable people who make you feel they’re happy to see visitors.
Our press familiarization trip began in Los Angeles, where we headed up the coastline by bus. Our first stop was at the Sunstone Vineyard in Santa Ynez, for tour of the scenic grounds on the terraced 55-acre ranch over-looking the Santa Ynez River where we enjoyed their Vintner’s luncheon in their trellised courtyard.
Lingering as long as we could, we, all foreign correspondents from around the globe, then departed for the charming town of San Luis Obispo, which was founded in 1772. Plan to make a walking tour of the area, including the Old Mission and Mission Plaza. Missions are unique to California, and date back to 18th century California, when the Spanish colonized the area. The Franciscans, in tandem with the Spanish military, established 21 missions from the southern-most point in San Diego northward up to Sonoma.
San Luis Obispo de Tolosa was named for Saint Louis, Bishop of Toulouse, France. After less-than-friendly natives set fire to the Mission roof three times, the padres developed red, fire-resistant clay tiles that were so effective all mission built afterward used these tiles, which have become ubiquitous throughout the region.
Missions were largely built from adobe, a mixture of straw and mud, which was also used in the construction of homes. Adobe structures still stand throughout San Luis Obispo and are cared for by the County Historical Society.
The town itself offers cozy specialty shops, upscale boutiques, and antique shops throughout the town. And everyone in our little group managed to find little souvenirs they just couldn’t live without.
In the center of town is the Farmer’s Market, well worth discovering, as it offers a multitude of delicious fruits, vegetables and flowers, and many homemade goodies.
A variety of restaurants and coffee house line the street — which offer outdoor seating where you can sit back, relax and enjoy the street action.
Once finished with your shopping and dining, you can hop on the downtown trolley that runs through town — which took us right back to our hotel, the memorable Apple Farm Inn. The deceptive hotel gives no hint of its character from its location on Monterey Street, a main thoroughfare that leads through town.
Upon entering the hotel grounds, one is immediately overwhelmed by the variety, and abundance, of flourishing flowers on the property. The hotel itself gives the sensation of visiting grandmother. Victorian-style chintz and charm fill every nick and cranny. The little lobby, with its overstuffed chairs offers the hotel’s specialty: Big red apples and homemade hot apple cider, and a selection of teas and cookies – all free for the taking. All the rooms are unique: But each comes with a canopy bed and a gas fireplace. And lots of chintz, pretty paintings and antique furniture.
Nearby St. Luis Obispo is the remarkable Hearst Castle. In the 1920s, William Randolph Hearst was America’s most feared publisher, and is credited for creating “yellow journalism,” which focused on titillating gossip of the gorgeous and famous.
A wealthy man, Hearst loved his mansion at San Simeon, where he had been born and where he escaped to relax and entertain. Invitations to join Hearst at his castle were coveted, and Katherine Hepburn once told an interviewer in 1975 that she had few regrets, but one was turning down Hearst’s invitation to San Simeon in 1932.
The famous and powerful jumped at the opportunity. And Hollywood’s greatest stars of the time — Cary Grant, Jean Harlow, David Niven, and Clark Gable visited Hearst and stayed in his elegant guesthouses. Politicians and literary figures also made the long trek there (in those days, transportation was a feat) and President Calvin Coolidge, British Prime Minister Winston Churchill and literary artist Bernard Shaw also visited.
Hearst’s home was renowned for having one of the finest private collections of art and antiques in the country, and the collection is as eccentric as it is impressive.
You’re offered a glimpse of Hearst Castle, but only through a series of frustrating tours. The first tour provides a broad overview of Hearst Castle and its grounds, but to see Hearst’s private suite, libraries and kitchen, one must travel all the way down to the bottom of the mountain, buy a new ticket at the visitor’s center and then take the bus all the way back up the hill for the second tour. You cannot buy, for example, all four of the tour tickets and view it all at once. It remains unclear why the tours are not available in one package, and several of the journalists on this trip complained about the curious, and inconvenient, setup.
Do all four tours and it will cost you around $60.00 and most of your day.
From San Simeon, our group departed for Pismo Beach: A funny name that offers spectacular views of the ocean. Here, there are several locations where one can walk the beaches with hundreds of sea lions, basking on shore, and pretty much indifferent to gaggles of appreciative tourists
We lunched at the Best Western Shore Cliff Lodge, which hangs on a cliff with breathtaking views of the picturesque ocean vista of the Pacific Ocean.
Next on our list was Santa Barbara, a beautiful and charming city also located on the coast.
We stayed at the Best Western Pepper Tree Inn, conveniently priced and accessibly located in town.
That evening we tried a little fun, attending the Circle Bar B Diner Theater for dining and a show. Located out of town, it’s a bit of drive. But the Circle Bar functions mainly as a ranch, and offers a family style meal and a fun theatre show in a nearby barn.
The next morning we had a breakfast cruise off the coast of Santa Barbara, on the Condor Express, a “whale sighting” boat. It was uncanny being so close to humpback whales and gigantic blue whales, which enter the Santa Barbara Channel. We spotted a several whales, sea lions, seals and countless numbers of seabirds and fish.
Returning to shore, we boarded the Santa Barbara Trolley which stopped at the waterfront and which gives an excellent synopsis of the city’s highlights.
The trolley brought us within easy walking distance to the Café’ Buenos Aires, whose name says it all. Dining is available inside or out, but if the weather is beautiful (as it always tends to be in this part of California) don’t hesitate to choose an outdoor table in the beautiful courtyard nestled from the street by ivy walls.
Regretfully, our 3-day tour of this lovely area had ended, and we were bustled onboard the nearby Amtrak train, the “Pacific Surfliner,” for a quick trip back to Los Angeles. The train runs parallel with the coast and offers a 2-hour spectacular view.
Back in LA we stayed at the quirky “Farmers Daughter Hotel” which is both reasonable and comfortable, and located next to an indoor/outdoor shopping center filled with restaurants and shopping.
Europeans seem to favorite it, which makes it a great place to stay — if you happen to be in LA. Our little press group, however, would have been more than happy to enjoy a few more days on California’s Central Coast.