In its fifth year now, The Globe has justifiably earned the reputation of being more than just Riyadh’s premier restaurant. It is hailed as providing its distinguished and discerning clientele with a truly debonair and urbane culinary experience.
As stunning from the outside as it is within, the interior has a futuristic elegance and tranquillity that in itself makes The Globe the very epitome of suave sophistication. Each table has its own keen sense of privacy, in spite of the fact that the waiters are ubiquitous and highly efficient. There is something surprisingly intimate about the layout of the restaurant that gives one the feeling of occupying a self-contained space quite distinct from the adjacent areas. Although there are no physical partitions, the discrete spots are demarcated and individually lit in such a way as to afford a distinct separation between diners. The spectacular panoramic views of the city’s skyline provide the perfect backdrop for that unforgettable evening. Wherever you are seated, the milieu is exquisite.
I recently returned to The Globe having previously visited shortly after its opening. I was once again mesmerized by the simplicity and stylishness of the icon’s characteristic ambience. But what has been taking place in the interim is nothing short of a quiet revolution led by the creative genius of the in-house chef Olivier Piganiol.
Under his innovative and inspirational craftsmanship the tantalizing array of fine cuisine has come a long way since the restaurant’s inception. Perhaps one of the most interesting aspects of his approach to concocting recipes is his incorporation of subtle local nuances within traditional fare. Working in some of the most prestigious international kitchens under the tutelage of such renowned three-star Michelin patrons as Bernard Loiseau, Pierre Gagniere and Emil Jung has made him intent on conjuring up a magical experience wherever he goes.
“My vision is to try and use the best of Arabic flavors to add a twist to my cooking. I love traditional foods and have experimented with various books of Bedouin cooking to come up with something very different,” he confides. There is a hint of playfulness in his attitude toward cuisine that culminates in an exciting and refreshing essence to all of his offerings.
The tongue-in-cheek titles add a touch of humor to what is a truly extensive menu. You can choose from a selection of entrees named “Global Leaders”, “Global Warming”, “Global Initiatives”, and move on to a main course of “Global Tributes” and end off a sumptuous meal with a dessert from “Global Connections” or “Global Trends”.
I chose a beautifully presented grave lax salmon terrine that was prepared from Balik Salmon and accompanied by pickled fennel salad, with yellow pepper coulis and salmon caviar. This was perhaps the finest salmon I had ever enjoyed and the exotic combination of flavors was truly superb. Another excellent choice is the pan-fried goose liver, with caramelized mango, blood orange reduction and spiced bread tuile.
For my main course I chose the roasted veal tenderloin and lobster tail, with roesti truffle potatoes, hazelnut roots puree, and baby vegetables which I would highly recommend. The veal is cooked to perfection and accompanied by an assortment of complementary additions that serve to augment rather than detract from its distinct flavor. For seafood lovers, there is finely cooked pan-fried Atlantic Turbot, with citrus powder, wild mushroom ragout, parsley sauce and orange chips or try the roasted North Sea Monkfish with thyme ratte potatoes, beef bacon, asparagus and veal essence.
In notable contrast with other fine dining establishments, the portions offered to customers at the Globe are really very generous. So my only advice to you is to leave plenty of room for the dessert which, in my estimation, is the piece de resistance of chef Olivier’s successful fusion of strikingly different flavors.
A magnificent and inspirational choice would most definitely be the desert dream platter. This is a combination of Arabian sweet sensations on one plate, including home made rose sherbet, pomegranate sherbet, saffron ice cream, sweet samboussek, spiced gulf toffee, stuffed dates with almond paste, and, if this is not enough variety for those of you with a particularly sweet tooth, there is also a tantalizing ginger milk cup. The delightful gentleness of sensation on the palate is indescribable. The platter is so plentiful that two can easily share its uniquely delicate contents.
It seems that the Globe is the center of culinary innovation and is constantly reinventing itself. In Chef Olivier’s words, “I get bored of producing the same dishes very quickly, so I am constantly on the lookout for variations which is why we change our menu four times a year.”
No matter how many times you visit, each time will seem like the first. It is evident that the new mission of the Globe is, according to its new visionary chef, “A place where we create something through feeling, not recipe. Somewhere above the skies of Riyadh where people come together to enjoy different food and their own unique dreams.”