Stopping at traffic lights has become hazardous in Jeddah. You never know what to expect, even in the privacy of your own car. Imagine an ordinary trip. You are sitting in the comfort of air-conditioning. You may be pondering life, listening to the radio, reading a book or talking on your phone. Whatever your habits, while waiting for the traffic signal to turn green you are probably oblivious to the outside world. Suddenly the ghastly sight of an amputated stub of what was once an arm jolts you out of your self-centered existence.
That was my experience last week. While I sat reading a book, I heard a gentle tapping on the window of my car. I looked up and was shocked to see a stump. A beggar was tapping her stump on my window. I have never seen one up close, and was surely not prepared emotionally to see one on that particular day. I sat in a daze for the rest of my car trip. What shocks me even more is that the beggar continues her rounds on the same street to this day. She takes out her arm when she comes near a car and then hides it when she stands on the sidewalk, waiting to approach another car. And what about children only 40cm tall who are in both passengers’ and driver’s blind spot? If the driver is lucky enough not to run them over, the passenger is bound to accidentally hit them with the car door.
While there are stray beggars, there are valid peddlers who are in our streets. Some have useful items to sell, such as flowers for the husband who wants to surprise his wife with a romantic gesture. In all seriousness though, the vendors of cold water are truly heaven sent. Then there are movie CDs for those of you who do not have the patience to wait seven and half years to see that latest release broadcast on your paid subscription channel.
Want a little extra in the department of car accessories? Why not drive on Sitteen Street to buy steering wheel covers in wild zebra stripes and bold lion prints? Not for the faint hearted. And what about window unit AC filters that you just don’t have time to buy at your local hardware store; do not fret, you can find them on Crown Prince Road. If you forgot to buy a gift for that special person, dawdle on Sari Street for the peddler with a wide array of imitation watches.
If you want to teach your kids a lesson in life and death, there are sad little birds sold in pitifully small cages. They are usually around the Madinah Road Bridge, but only in 40-degree weather. Fireworks and cotton candy are unfortunately limited to the Corniche. But all other items, such as breakable toys, wreaths, kitchen towels, mini-fans, knife sets and that indispensable tool and drill kit can also be found at your local traffic light stop.
And last but definitely not least, plastic hoses for your toilet. I really think all those commercials for Jeddah’s summer shopping should advertise where the real products can be found, on our rent-free, unmonitored streets.
(Hadeel Shaikh is a poet, freelance writer and an advocate of children’s rights. She is based in Jeddah.)