The Turks spell it “Ramazan”. In India and Pakistan it’s pronounced “Ramzhan”, while Arabs refer to the holy month as “Ramadan”. Depending on where you live, it may start and end on a different day. Whatever its nuances, for the world’s 1.4 billion Muslims it’s a time of fasting, right thinking, contemplation and reflection. But aside from its spirituality, the holy month nurtures families and cements friendships with its social, traditional and gastronomical aspects. These vary from country to country, depending on cultural influences, climate, locale and geopolitics.
Muslims who live in Norway, whose most northerly reaches are situated near the Arctic Circle, find themselves uniquely placed during the holy month of Ramadan. During summer, the sun almost never sets and in winter it hardly rises, which is certainly challenging for believers, who are required to abstain from food and liquid from dawn to dusk. It’s a dilemma but one that has a practical solution. Norwegian Muslims are instructed to adhere to the Ramadan timings of their southern neighbors.
Indonesia’s 200 million Muslims joyfully prepare for the annual fast weeks before the new crescent moon (hilal) is sighted by lovingly attending to the graves of their loved ones. In the run-up to Ramadan, believers ensure their homes are spotless before bathing with orange flower water.
The sounds of drums welcome in the fast when everyone, including young children, is encouraged to participate. Like almost everywhere in the Islamic world, the fast is broken with dates but from there traditional Ramadan dishes take on an Indonesian personality with the liberal use of coconut milk added to rice, stews and desserts.
The 27th night of Ramadan “Laylat Al-Qadr” is considered particularly holy, commemorating Allah’s revelation of the Qur’an to the Prophet Muhammad (pbuh). In Indonesia, this night is somberly spent in prayer.
For Moroccans, Laylat Al-Qadr is also the time when youngsters are initiated into fasting and get to dress up in new clothes. Visits are made to the tombs of saints on this night, too.
In the capital Casablanca, the devout submit their wishes to the Creator and pray they will be granted while gazing up at the heavens.
Almost all Moroccan men spend this evening at the mosque reciting the Qur’an while their wives prepare a traditional meal of couscous accompanied by dates and figs — obligatory for every festival.
If Moroccans adhere to their cultural Ramadan traditions with gusto, alas, Jordanians bemoan their dwindling traditions.
According to Tareq Delwani in an article published on Islam Online, Ramadan traditions, such as lanterns, communal iftar banquets, the “madfaa el-ifta” (cannon), the “musaharati” (sohour drummer), and late night/early morning shopping are not as prevalent as they once were. This disturbing tendency Delwani ascribes to the inflow of technology and the quickening pace of life.
Whatever the reasons for ancient Ramadan customs being superseded, there’s a similar trend underway in many of the GCC states. Nowadays, for instance, millions of text messages are sent wishing their recipients “Ramadan Kareem” at the beginning of the fast obviating the need for the more personal handshake or telephone call.
It wasn’t so long ago that families spent the long Ramadan evenings at the beach watching Egyptian, Syrian or Kuwaiti soaps on televisions plugged into their cars, chatting, munching on snacks or playing games. But nowadays, they mostly forsake outdoor gatherings for an air-conditioned mall or luxury hotel.
In the wealthy United Arab Emirates, after the first few days of Ramadan when iftar is very much a family affair, Muslims — and non-Muslim expatriates — head for one of the many five-star hotels, where tables groan with traditional and international cuisine. Nicely satiated, it’s off to one of the many shopping promotions or to a Ramadan tent for an apple-flavored sheesha and a game of backgammon.
A study undertaken by the Bilkent University in Turkey decries the spirit of capitalism that has crept into Ramadan celebrations, especially such items as fasting calendars and lanterns “emblazoned with company logos”, Ramadan sweepstakes and Ramadan-themed shopping malls and festivals. It expresses fears that a religious ritual is being transformed into “a holiday marked by consumption”. In Azerbaijan, there are new Ramadan traditions being formed but for different reasons to those of Turkey, Jordan and the Gulf countries.
Azerbaijan suffered 70 years of Soviet occupation before it gained its independence and became a secular state. During long oppressive decades, Azeris were forced to go to ground with their religious beliefs, which often meant their children grew up as atheists.
Nowadays the Azeris are making up for lost time. On the 15th day of the fast, women make halva, which they offer to the mosque while on the last they prepare a dish with rice or chicken to share with friends and neighbors. Also on the final day, the most senior family member dispenses the price of two loaves to excited children.
In parts of Iraq, some customs have had to be put aside due to the prevailing climate of violence. The drummers who used to wake neighborhoods for sohour wisely prefer to remain at home while children are prevented from playing traditional outdoor games. Attendance at mosques have also fallen either because of curfews or the fact people are naturally fearful of gathering together in large numbers.
For devout Egyptians, Ramadan is always eagerly awaited. Traditions, involving the family, are still cherished. There are healthy debates over which often controversial specially-made-for-Ramadan serial to watch, whether youngsters should get an all-singing all-dancing Chinese fanous instead of the more modest local variety.
There is also many a discussion revolving around the exorbitant prices of amar-e-din (preserved apricots from which a special Ramadan drink is produced). But nobody goes hungry during this month. Mawa’d Al-Rahman (tables of mercy) courtesy of businessmen, politicians and well-heeled shopkeepers inevitably spring up throughout the country. Despite the economic hardship suffered by so many, Egyptians — famous throughout the Arab world for their unfailing ability to crack a joke — keep smiling. Strangers shout Ramadan greetings to passers-by and kind souls throw packets of dates into open car windows to sustain their occupants until they reach home.
On the down side, the rate of automobile accidents soar and when Ramadan falls during warmer months, so do tempers.
One thing is sure, wherever you are on our one beautiful planet there are Muslims celebrating Ramadan’s communalities and enjoying its superficial cultural differences in a spirit of deep devotion, respect and brotherhood. And, most importantly, even though the Ramadan drums and cannons may soon be relegated to museums, in its essence, the holy month will never change.