RED SEA: The latest offering from Saudi Arabia’s Red Sea Global Project — Nujuma, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve — is situated off the Kingdom’s west coast in the relatively untouched Ummahat Islands. It offers guests the opportunity to immerse themselves in Saudi Arabia’s nature, culture and cuisine.
Red Sea International Airport — situated where the expansive desert meets the cerulean coast — is fairly small. It took around five minutes from the plane stopping to being ushered out of the airport, luggage in hand, which has to be some kind of record.
The deck of an overwater villa. (Supplied)
It's a further 15-to-20-minute drive to the Red Sea arrival center, from which you take a boat transfer — or, if the weather is suitable, a seaplane — to Nujuma.
We found ourselves there on an extremely windy day, so the 40-minute boat ride was a bit of an adventure, featuring a white-knuckled woman fighting for her life to stay put in her seat (yours truly) and a captain who kept looking back, big smiles and all, to flash a reassuring thumbs up every now and then, all while ever-increasing waves crashed against the boat. It could have all been a bit much, but the sight of the captain's assistant nonchalantly watching YouTube videos in the seat in front of me put my hyperbolic fears to rest.
The bumpy ride proved well worth it when I arrived at Nujuma (Arabic for stars), and was promptly whisked to my over-water villa, offering unobstructed views of endless blue waters and the approaching sunset. There are 63 villas in total, both over-water and on the beach, and each shell-inspired domed structure comes with a private pool and offers complete privacy while simultaneously giving full access to the views with floor-to-ceiling windows in all rooms, as well as a telescope to stargaze at the light-pollution-free night sky.
The first thing that will strike you about Nujuma is a true feeling of otherworldliness. Courting a high-end clientele, Nujuma seems like the perfect getaway for a celebrity looking for a discreet holiday or a honeymooning couple wanting some privacy.
Each villa also has a personal host to handle all guest requests. The service of Jeddah-born Omar, who was assigned to my room, was exceptional and he was enthusiastic and knowledgeable about both the Kingdom and the Red Sea.
When it comes to dining, Nujuma provides four excellent options. Sita, the all-day restaurant, was my favorite, combining the delicacies of a French patisserie with a Levantine eatery. The shakshuka and the chocolate pain perdu with a side of fresh berries remain standouts. If the weather is fine, I’d recommend enjoying your meal outdoors under the arched woven-wood ceiling.
A shot of Sita. (Supplied)
The seafood outpost Tabrah (Arabic for “luckiest catch”) is a charming villa-style restaurant where you can sample everything from the catch of the day to lobster to a seafood paella that will have you asking for a second helping.
The alfresco Jamaa is the beach-side lounge offering light eats and incomparable sunset views, as you sit close to the outdoor pool and cabanas.
Just indoors is Maia, a cozy “bar” with a roof dotted with twinkling constellations, and bartenders ready to whip up any mocktail you can think of.
But for those looking for more than just food, drink and great views, Nujuma offers an array of activities, especially for those who’d like to learn more about the Kingdom. The Conservation House, for example, is dedicated to the culture and history of Saudi Arabia, and the resident historian is available for a chat with anyone who so desires.
There’s also Sean Laughlin, a naturalist who gives talks on the ecology and marine life of the Red Sea, and who accompanied me on my very first snorkeling trip. The clearer-than-crystal waters give breathtaking views of the area’s coral reef system, the fourth largest in the world.
Guests can also enjoy other outdoor activities like sailing, kayaking, paddleboarding and guided tours of the mangroves.
On my last night at Nujuma, I also had the pleasure of talking to the charming house stargazer, Saudi astrophysicist Habib Bafeil, who, wielding his laser pen with the panache of Indiana Jones handling his whip, pointed out the constellations in the sky as he told stories of the pre-Islamic Arabs who navigated the deserts using the stars alone. Families travelling with children especially will love this particular activity, which will spark their curiosity in science and the world around us.
All in all, Nujuma offers a getaway like no other.
