RIYADH: Last month, the Mandarin Oriental Al-Faisaliah in Riyadh welcomed an exclusive pop-up of L~ARIA, from its sister property on the shores of Lake Como in Italy’s Lombardy region. Along for the ride was chef Massimiliano Blasone, who heads the kitchen at L~ARIA and oversaw the launch of the pop-up, which runs until Feb. 26.
L~ARIA, according to a press release, “fuses traditional Italian dishes with strong Oriental influences. Japanese cooking practices and techniques enhance the finest seasonal ingredients…”
L~ARIA pop-up restaurant. (Supplied)
The menu at the Riyadh pop-up includes lobster tempura, truffle taglioni and A5 Wagyu, as well as artisanal gelato for dessert.
Here, Blasone discusses early errors, love for lemons, and comfort cuisine.
When you started out, what was the most common mistake you made?
Trying to add in too many elements. It just disrupts the harmony of flavors and confuses the palate.
What’s your top tip for amateurs cooking at home?
Base your cooking on fresh and balanced ingredients that will maintain freshness and lightness. Your dishes will then be a celebration of both those things.
What one ingredient can instantly improve any dish?
Lemon. It’s so versatile. You can use its lemon juice or lemon zest to add flavor to salads, to seafood dishes, and even to desserts.
What’s the most common issue that you find in other restaurants when you go out to eat?
A lack of communication between the staff. In the restaurant industry, mistakes are inevitable, so the real challenge lies in minimizing them through continuous refinement. The focal point of my attention is always constant training and timely communication. Communication is the key to smooth and immediate coordination: every detail, every need must be shared clearly and promptly, so that every team member is aligned towards the common goal of providing a flawless culinary experience, without hesitation or misunderstandings.
What’s your favorite cuisine?
I am a passionate fan of comfort food — that type of cuisine that embraces the soul. So I’m always looking for dishes that are fresh, natural, and full of authenticity — qualities that only the most genuine dishes can convey.
What’s your go-to dish if you have to cook something quickly at home?
Risotto. I’m a true Italian, and risotto is one of the most beloved and versatile dishes in our cuisine. It’s a dish that, despite its simplicity, lends itself to countless interpretations, seasons, and ingredients.
What customer request or behavior most annoys you?
I always try to maintain a balanced, positive attitude; that’s just my natural inclination, professionally. But I do find it quite annoying when I sense signs of impatience from guests.
What’s your favorite dish to cook and why?
Right now, while I’m in Riyadh, my favorite dish to cook is salt-crusted sea bass. It perfectly embodies the harmony between simplicity and sophistication. It is a dish that respects the quality of the ingredients and enhances every nuance of their flavor.
As a head chef, what are you like? Are you a disciplinarian? Do you shout a lot? Or are you more laid back?
I’d say that, as a head chef, I’m the result of all the experience gained from working with professionals of great precision and discipline. I think my leadership is based on a foundation of rigor, but, at the same time, I firmly believe in the importance of serenity and clear communication, and, above all, balance.
Chef Massimiliano’s maccheroncini with shellfish recipe
Chef Massimiliano’s maccheroncini. (Supplied)
(Serves 6)
Dry pasta maccheroncini
400 gr
Ingredients:
Lobster Bisque
Lobster meat
Shrimp meat
Spring onion
Tomato coulis
Tomato concasse
Sun-dried tomatoes
Almond pesto
For the Bisque:
Ripe tomatoes
Celery
Carrots
Onion
Fennel
Double concentrated tomato paste
Leeks
Non alcoholic white wine
Garlic
Shells (lobster carcasses)
Basil
Thyme
Instructions:
Roughly chop the vegetables.
Toast the lobster heads.
Sauté the vegetables and garlic.
Deglaze with non alcoholic white wine.
Add the tomatoes and the toasted lobster heads.
Add ice and water to cover, along with the aromatic herbs.
After 45 minutes, remove the shells and vegetables and strain the bisque through a fine mesh strainer.
Let the bisque reduce over low heat, then strain it again through a fine mesh strainer.
Tomato Coulis (for 1 portion):
Ingredients:
Date tomatoes (300g)
San Marzano tomatoes (300g)
Spring onion (100g)
Garlic cloves, without the germ (20g)
White onion (80g)
Instructions:
Chop the spring onion and white onion finely.
Crush the garlic cloves.
Sauté the garlic, then add the tomatoes, cut into large pieces.
After 40 minutes, add salt to taste.
Remove the garlic and infuse the basil in the sauce for 10 minutes.
After 10 minutes, remove the basil, then blend the mixture using a Thermomix (or similar blender), adding extra virgin olive oil slowly in a thin stream while blending.
Almond Pesto
Ingredients:
Cow’s ricotta (300g)
Toasted, skinless almonds (150g)
Confit tomatoes with thyme (30 pieces)
Vegetable broth (200g)
Garlic clove, without the germ (1 piece)
Maldon salt (3g)
Cooked basil, squeezed dry (150g, from cooked basil)
Extra virgin olive oil (200g)
Instructions:
Prepare the broth by simmering carrots, celery, and onions that have been charred.
Blanch the garlic 3 times in boiling water, using 3 different pans each time.
Blanch the basil, then cool it in ice water and squeeze out any excess moisture.
Combine the liquids (which should have been previously frozen as a cream), along with the confit tomatoes, almonds, garlic, and salt.
Finally, add the ricotta, making sure not to overheat the mixture.
Place the mixture in the Pacojet and freeze it.
Blue Lobster Cooking Method
Ingredients:
1 kg Blue Lobster
100g Leek
100g Carrot
100g Celery
80g Fresh Parsley
100g Lemon Juice
10g Black Peppercorns
Procedure:
Prepare the vegetable broth: In a large pot, combine the leek, carrot, celery, and parsley. Add water and bring to a gentle boil, allowing the vegetables to release their flavors and aromas. Season the broth with black peppercorns and lemon juice for a delicate balance of freshness and heat.
Cook the lobsters: Once the broth is simmering, carefully tie the lobsters in pairs, securing them upright to maintain their shape during cooking. Gently immerse the lobsters into the boiling broth and cook for exactly 5 minutes, ensuring the flesh remains tender yet firm.
Cool and extract the lobster meat: After 5 minutes, immediately remove the lobsters and allow them to cool in the cooking liquid to preserve their flavor. Once cooled, carefully extract the lobster meat from the shells, preserving the delicate flesh. Store the lobster meat in the refrigerator until ready for use, ensuring it remains fresh and juicy.
Dish Preparation
Use a sauté pan made of stainless steel, with a height of 7 cm and a diameter of 20 cm, to allow for perfect emulsification of the pasta. Begin by gently sautéing the garlic in extra virgin olive oil, making sure not to burn it, to extract the flavors in a balanced way. Next, add a finely chopped mix of confit tomatoes, along with a spoonful of fresh tomato concassé, peeled and seeded, for a touch of freshness and sweetness. Cook gently over low heat, allowing the flavors to blend harmoniously.
Deglaze with a slight splash of lime juice to add freshness and a subtle acidity. At this point, add the lobster bisque and allow it to reduce gently until a rich, flavorful sauce forms. Then, incorporate the tomato coulis, which will add an additional layer of freshness and depth to the sauce.
Add a handful of chopped parsley, a few finely sliced basil leaves, and a small pinch of Espelette pepper, which will provide a mild spicy note without overwhelming the other flavors. Keep the sauce warm so it can meld together perfectly.
Meanwhile, bring a pot of salted water to a boil for cooking the pasta. Cook the pasta al dente, then drain it and transfer it directly into the sauce, stirring gently to allow the pasta to absorb the flavors. If necessary, add a bit more lobster bisque to adjust the sauce's consistency.
Remove from heat and add the previously cut lobster meat, making sure the residual heat warms it through without overcooking. Finish the dish with a final sprinkle of fresh parsley, a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil, and a squeeze of lemon juice to balance and enhance all the flavors.
Pomodori Confit Preparation
Ingredients:
1 kg San Marzano tomatoes
100 g Extra virgin olive oil
100 g Fresh basil
60 g Fresh thyme
80 g Garlic, in the skin
Procedure:
Blanch the tomatoes: Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Immerse the San Marzano tomatoes for about two minutes. Once the time has passed, quickly remove the tomatoes and transfer them into ice water to stop the cooking process and preserve their color and freshness.
Peel and seed the tomatoes: Carefully peel the tomatoes, removing the seeds as well to obtain a clean pulp, ready for slow cooking.
Prepare for the confit cooking: Arrange the tomatoes, well-spaced, on a steel baking tray. Drizzle with extra virgin olive oil, add the garlic cloves (still in their skin), a few fresh basil leaves, and sprigs of thyme to create an aromatic bouquet that will enhance the flavor.
Slow cooking: Place the tray in a static oven set to 70°C (160°F) for a prolonged period of 6 hours, allowing the tomatoes to slowly dehydrate and concentrate their flavors without overcooking.
Cooling and storage: Once the cooking is complete, let the tomatoes cool in the tray, then store them in the refrigerator to preserve their freshness and delicate flavors.
