MILAN: The Milan fashion world is responding to global crises with transparency and lightness.
Designers are choosing diaphanous textiles to create airy looks, often layering sheer trench coats and anoraks over form-fitting knit dresses or jumpsuits for contrast. It is about comfort, being nimble and joyous in times of uncertainty.
Milan Fashion Week womenswear previews for next spring and summer continued for the second day on Thursday with shows by Fendi, Max Mara, Prada and Moschino. Here are some highlights:
Prada Revolt
Miuccia Prada wants to inspire, if not incite, women to claim their own power. Her medium is, of course, clothing.
Backstage, the designer said her message is “for women to be strong, because there is still so much against us. And so we need a lot of cleverness, intelligence and strength.”
Her collection was literally drawn on a white canvass on which she constructed the new manifesto, inspired by female graphic artists from the 1940s and 1960s who helped the designer realize “that through these comics, you can tell in a light way so much more than if you are serious.”
On these white garments, she printed panels comics by and about women, just one of the devices she used to recall and provoke female action.
An overcoat is a reconstructed men’s overcoat, worn backward, with a new opening up front. It is hers now. She dresses in no-nonsense black trousers and a blue-and-white striped shirt, then, claiming her femininity, her childhood sense of freedom, she wears over it a brocade dress or bustier.
Jacket panels were covered with studs, her toughness. Or with pins, her memories. Or with animal prints, her rebellion.
She is a rebel, she is a punk, she is a rocker, she is a campfire girl, and her wardrobe represents a collage of her life. She is writing her own story.
Prada acknowledges a sense of anger underlining the collection.
“I feel we really should start combatting. I am really encouraging strength. Particularly now.”
Onnocent Lost at Moschino
It all ended in a floral flourish. Jeremy Scott’s latest collection for Moschino celebrated the confluence of strength and femininity, mixing biker elements with dancer’s tutus, studs contrasting with ostrich feathers.
The tone changed and there was a literal deflowering as a model attired as a tulip let her petals flutter into the fashion crowd. And so followed a bouquet of looks inspired by flowers, from an orchid to a floral bouquet to a bunch of roses.
The collection also included a capsule collection available immediately featuring “My Little Pony,” including a jersey and lurex bomber, a biker bag, backpack and T-shirts decorated with bows, stars, rainbows and butterflies.
Designers are choosing diaphanous textiles to create airy looks, often layering sheer trench coats and anoraks over form-fitting knit dresses or jumpsuits for contrast. It is about comfort, being nimble and joyous in times of uncertainty.
Milan Fashion Week womenswear previews for next spring and summer continued for the second day on Thursday with shows by Fendi, Max Mara, Prada and Moschino. Here are some highlights:
Prada Revolt
Miuccia Prada wants to inspire, if not incite, women to claim their own power. Her medium is, of course, clothing.
Backstage, the designer said her message is “for women to be strong, because there is still so much against us. And so we need a lot of cleverness, intelligence and strength.”
Her collection was literally drawn on a white canvass on which she constructed the new manifesto, inspired by female graphic artists from the 1940s and 1960s who helped the designer realize “that through these comics, you can tell in a light way so much more than if you are serious.”
On these white garments, she printed panels comics by and about women, just one of the devices she used to recall and provoke female action.
An overcoat is a reconstructed men’s overcoat, worn backward, with a new opening up front. It is hers now. She dresses in no-nonsense black trousers and a blue-and-white striped shirt, then, claiming her femininity, her childhood sense of freedom, she wears over it a brocade dress or bustier.
Jacket panels were covered with studs, her toughness. Or with pins, her memories. Or with animal prints, her rebellion.
She is a rebel, she is a punk, she is a rocker, she is a campfire girl, and her wardrobe represents a collage of her life. She is writing her own story.
Prada acknowledges a sense of anger underlining the collection.
“I feel we really should start combatting. I am really encouraging strength. Particularly now.”
Onnocent Lost at Moschino
It all ended in a floral flourish. Jeremy Scott’s latest collection for Moschino celebrated the confluence of strength and femininity, mixing biker elements with dancer’s tutus, studs contrasting with ostrich feathers.
The tone changed and there was a literal deflowering as a model attired as a tulip let her petals flutter into the fashion crowd. And so followed a bouquet of looks inspired by flowers, from an orchid to a floral bouquet to a bunch of roses.
The collection also included a capsule collection available immediately featuring “My Little Pony,” including a jersey and lurex bomber, a biker bag, backpack and T-shirts decorated with bows, stars, rainbows and butterflies.
