JEDDAH, 18 October 2004 — Foules mesdames, or just “ful” in local parlance, is more expensive than oil, especially so in the Ramadan market where demand drives up the prices. One urn of foul sells for $106 while the price of a barrel of oil is $54.

Muhammad Al-Garmoshi is a household name in the “ful” retailing industry. His “fuls” appears at almost every family gathering during Ramadan in the Kingdom. In the half hour before Maghreb, it is almost impossible to buy a dish from Al-Garmoshi store. Crowds mill in front of the steaming urns in anticipation of breaking fast. At between SR1 and SR3 a portion, it makes an economical and nourishing way of breaking fast.

Al-Eqtisadiah, a sister publication of Arab News, met Muhammad Al-Garmoshi in one of his stores in Jeddah’s Al-Sitteen Street. He described how he started in the “ful” business.

His first outlet was near Al-Nada market near the Al-Basha mosque in downtown Jeddah. “I took over my father’s stores after he fell ill. I used to cook four urns of ‘ful’ myself from midnight so I could sell them the next morning.”

Al-Garmoshi did not anticipate that one day he would become one of the most famous retailers of the take-away “ful” business. He has no idea whether he is the biggest name in the business, but knows that he has an enviable reputation. Vague and apparently unconcerned about the actual number of outlets he owns, he thought it was between 45 and 50.

He is concerned though about selling “ful” and “masoub”, both very popular and traditional dishes in Saudi Arabia. In the smallest store he owned, Al-Garmoshi sold between four and five urns of “ful” at least each day in Ramadan. He said there is no secret in making the dish, saying simply that the more it is cooked, the better it tasted. To cook the dish properly he said it took at least 12 hours.

He has many happy associations with “ful”, both as his business and because he loves the traditions and his memories associated with it.

“I remember the day when there was competition in this business in the past with my uncle’s stores,” he said, remembering the fierce rivalry.

“Before there was gas, we used to cook ‘ful’ on coal,” he said recounting another memory. “When I started to cook it with gas, I burned many urns until I got used to it.”

Al-Garmoshi is now 60 years old and from his experience estimates “ful” to be the most popular dish in and around Jeddah.

“For 40 years, I have been cooking ‘ful’ and before that my father did the same and built his chain of shops. How could it be introduced to us from outside?”

“Can you believe that these days three people cook eight jars of ‘ful’, when in the past I used to cook half of this number by myself?” he asked, reflecting on the tougher times he got used to.

“Before I took over, my father’s wives used to help him in his stores. I used to work in my other profession. After I took control of my father’s store, I loved the business and have stayed with it since then.”

After 33 years in the business, Al-Garmoshi is happy to pass it down to his sons. He is proud that his “ful” has reached almost every house in Jeddah and that his son Muneef loves his job making the dish.

Still actively involved, he said he would never hesitate to prepare a “ful” dish to any customer coming to his stores.