Byzantium, Constantinople, Istanbul… Three names for one city straddling two continents and infused with Greek, Islamic and Western culture. Today, Istanbul has become a megalopolis and continues to grow, extending itself north of the Golden Horn and on the Asian side. But that is a part of the city few tourists acknowledge. Tourists come for what the authorities have called “Istanbul, City of Love and Dreams” a slogan seen on a huge poster on the busy Galata Bridge. Who hasn’t dreamt of the Blue Mosque and Topkapi Palace overlooking the Bosporus and the Sea of Marmora?
In this era of package tours and cheap and easy traveling, Istanbul is one of those cities like Paris, London, Cairo, New York that imposes itself. But isn’t there more to a city than its flagship monuments which most tourists only visit once in their lifetime? During a recent visit to Luxor, I was pleasantly surprised to hear a tourist tell me that he had come eight times and each time he experienced something new!
That is how I feel about Istanbul. I have loved Istanbul under the searing August sun, under a blanket of snow in December and in late spring when the weather is perfect. I always enjoy strolling through the narrow streets of Sultanahmet, the heart of the Ottoman Empire, and taking a boat ride along the Bosphorous, I am touched by the people of Istanbul, the way they go about their lives in their city so steeped in history. No one has described Istanbul’s unique atmosphere better than the Turkish novelist, Orhan Pamuk: “… the children who play ball between the cars on cobble-stoned streets… the empty boathouses of the old Bosphorus villas… the crowds rushing to catch ferries on winter evenings… the wooden buildings whose every board creaked even when they were pashas’ mansions… ship horns booming through the fog… city walls, ruins since the end of the Byzantine Empire, seagulls perched on rusty barges caked with moss and mussels, unflinching under the pelting rain; tiny ribbons of smoke rising from the single chimney of a 100-year-old mansion on the coldest day of the year… In Istanbul the remains of a glorious past civilization are everywhere visible. No matter how ill-kept, no matter how neglected or hemmed in they are by concrete monstrosities, the great mosques and other monuments of the city, as well as the lesser detritus of empire in every side street and corner — the little arches, fountains and neighbourhood mosques — inflict heartache on all who live among them.”
On my last visit, I discovered Ilhamur Pavillion, a charming 19th century palace. Tables were laid out in the garden and I joined Turkish families for an impromptu late breakfast. In wintertime, tea and snacks are served inside the palace. I also visited the Yerebatan Sarnici, the Basilica Cisternm, situated in the historical peninsula of Istanbul. This massive underground cistern, lined with 336 marble columns, was built during the reign of Emperor Justinian in the 6th century. Wandering through the Grand Bazaar is always a treat. This covered market, the largest in the world, is simply fabulous with its high arches and its tile-decorated ceilings. Alleys and avenues crisscross its vast interior and although yellow signs indicate street names, it is still easy to get lost. I am already planning another trip to Istanbul. There is so much remaining to see and feel in this city which is at the same time a bridge and a buffer between east and west, Europe and Asia.
Where to Stay
Ciragan Palace Hotel: One of the best 5 star hotel a superb view of the Bosphorous. double room from 179 Euros + 18% taxes
(0212) 326 4646
Galata Antique Hotel in Beyoglu: Art Nouveau style and reasonably priced at 100 Euros for a double room.
The Best Western Hotel chain operates some twelve 3 and 4 star hotels. Pricses from 60 Euros, breakfast included.
For More Information: www.bestwestern.com
Where to Eat Turkish Delights
Haci Abdullah Lokantasi: Typical Ottoman cuisine and décor. Agacami Sakizagasi Caddesi 17 (Beyoglu).
Pandeli serves traditional food. Misir Carcisi 1. Tel 0212 527 3909
Tike for Turkish kebabs: This excellent chain of restaurants has several branches all over Istanbul. Tike in Nisantasi (0212) 233 3540
Reina is a trendy restaurant, located on the waterside. The food is excellent but expensive. Muallim Naci Caddesi 44 (Ortakoy).
Lactivert on the Anatolian side of the city. Beautiful setting on the water. Tel: (0216) 413 3753
K.V. Café (Tune Pasaji): Very good salads
Malta Pavillion (Malta Kusku): situated in the Yildiz park. This 1870 palace has been restored and transformed into a restaurant which serves lovely brunches.
What to Buy
Silk and Cashmere Grand Bazar. No 4/6 Kapali Carsi
Abdulla (soap, silk sarongs & linen towels), Grand Bazar Halicilar Caddesi 53.
A la Turca (old kilims), Faik Pasa Hill 4.
The Egyptian Bazaar (Caviar and the delicious apple tea), Misir Carsi.
Ipek (silk and cotton scarves) Istiklal Caddesi 230.
Oxxo the Turkish equivalent of Mango specializes in cheap trendy clothes, Istiklal Caddesi 146.
What to Read
Istanbul: Memories and the City by Orhan Pamuk
Published by Faber and Faber.