The spring-summer 2011 ready-to-wear collection, which was percolating with a few too many ideas for its own good, was not one of Gaultier's stronger of late, but with "Gossip" frontwoman Beth Ditto as opening act, it still exploded with energy.

Viktor & Rolf were also on-trend with a collection centered on that perennial cool-girl staple — the boyfriend's oversized button-down shirt — and towering merengue-like shoulders big enough to make any eighties prom queen blush.

Bunuel's classic film about the perversion of France's moneyed elite, "The Discrete Charm of the Bourgeoisie," was in the air at Azzaro, a Paris house that has made classy clothing with an undercurrent of perversion its trademark. This season, designer Vanessa Seward served up sweet little-girl frocks with oversized ruffles at the neck and hemlines. Worn on grown women, though, the abbreviated dresses lost a lot of their sweet innocence.

It was a wardrobe for big girls with a bad streak.