Rebels may be fighting fiercely against government troops in the east, but in the capital Tripoli — the heart of Qaddafi’s powerful security apparatus — many like Sawaan are already betting on a Qaddafi victory.

Speaking underneath a large portrait of the leader, Sawaan said his business had received an unexpected boost last month when Qaddafi’s supporters flocked to his shop to buy army gear.

“There are lots of volunteers who want to fight the terrorists,” said Sawaan as assistants loaded army boots and khaki uniforms into his shop. “I am sure Qaddafi will win.”

After losing control over parts of Libya to an uprising against his rule, Qaddafi has now regained momentum. His army, backed by militiamen and armed civilians, has made quick advances into rebel territory over the past week.

In Tripoli, its streets patrolled by feared militiamen in pick-up trucks and studded with checkpoints, many seem to be quietly resigned to the fact that Qaddafi is there to stay.

And, with many businesses dependent on the existing system, the concept of Qaddafi’s invincibility, cultivated during his four-decade rule, appears to be alive and well.

Libya’s vast state propaganda machine has drawn crowds of supporters into the streets of Tripoli to create an impression of overwhelming public support for the leader.

A pro-Qaddafi celebration in the central Green Square now appears to run around the clock, complete with frequent fireworks and ever-present bands of flag-waving supporters.

“We just want Qaddafi,” said Fatima Abu Humeida as she walked with two female friends carrying posters of Qaddafi to join the daily chants.

Attempts by young Libyans to hold protests in Tripoli modelled on the successful popular uprisings in neighboring Egypt and Tunisia have been forcibly stamped out.

Entire neighborhoods like Tajoura tried to defy Qaddafi’s rule, setting up barricades and staging demonstrations. But for now, their resolve appears to have been crushed.

“Qaddafi will take (the rebel stronghold) Benghazi in one week, maybe two weeks. It is not like before. We looked at Egypt. It was exciting,” said Ferat, a computer science student.

“Now it has changed, and everyone is at home.”
 

Tripoli, home to up to 2 million of Libya’s 7 million people, came to a standstill last month as rebels made quick advances from their eastern stronghold.

The capital has now returned to its usual self, with shops bustling with activity and cars honking their way through its chaotic streets. Outside coffee shops, men sit in the shade of whitewashed buildings smoking water pipes and drinking coffee.

Yet, with Libya’s oil production plunging and reports of food and medicine shortages in other parts of the country, a sense of nervousness and insecurity is still palpable.

Many said they expected little to change in their lives, although some pointed to the underlying problems of unemployment and low wages as a possible trigger of further unrest.

“The problem is the economy. They are defeating these people. But that won’t really mean there will be peace,” said Muhammed Ibrahim, a Tripoli resident who runs a restaurant.

“If Qaddafi doesn’t create jobs and bring investment, Libya won’t be stable. There will be a lot of young men who are angry who may turn to groups like Al-Qaeda.”

Others agreed, saying that Qaddafi’s readiness to use force to crush the rebellion had frightened people into silence.

“In Benghazi they are good guys. They want freedom. Here, not really. People are quiet,” said Ali Mohamed, a 25-year-old electrician, sipping coffee in a smoky coffee shop.

Could rebel forces ever make it to Tripoli?

“No,” he said. “The army is strong.”