MINA, 23 February — The day dawned with frenetic activity. After arriving from Muzdalifa, most pilgrims set off to stone the Jamrat Al-Aqaba, the largest of the three pillars representing Satan.
Thursday evening, after sunset, the pilgrims had started the trek back to Mina, through Muzdalifa. It was a disorganized operation as everyone attempted to leave at the same moment. Even for those on motor bikes and scooters, the journey to Muzdalifa, which normally takes just a few minutes, lasted two hours. The departing crowds left Arafat looking like a wasteland.
Mounds of refuse dotted the littered landscape. Workers were tearing down the sunshades even before most of the pilgrims had departed. As the evening wore on, some pilgrims became extremely upset as they realized they could not find their transport. Many gave up looking for their buses and simply walked.
Arab News arrived at Muzdalifa at about 11 p.m. Business was booming at the stalls of the food vendors but there was little other activity. After eating supper, people quietly began collecting the 49 pebbles that they were to throw at the Jamrat on the 10th, 11th and 12th of Dul Hijjah.
People were sitting on the ground or in the buses. There were no special shelters. Despite the huge numbers, the place was eerily calm and silent. Exhaustion had overtaken everyone. After midnight many pilgrims began moving out to Mina.
Although everyone had minimal rest, the scene at Mina yesterday morning was one of purposeful activity. The camp was packed. The authorities began having difficulty keeping the surroundings hygienic due to a lack of cooperation from the pilgrims. Sidewalk sales were brisk. The majority of the vendors were from Bangladesh, India, Pakistan and Africa with a few from Yemen added to the mix.
A lot of clothing was on sale, especially coverings for the head and neck. Sunglasses and cameras were also popular and there was even some business in Haj souvenirs. One enterprising Bangladeshi had an instant camera and was selling instant photos at SR10 each.
The stoning at the Jamrah took place with military precision. Lines of police directed the crowds. A fleet of ambulances was lined up nearby but there was little need for their services. Too often the pilgrims did not help themselves in the ritual. Many still insisted on toting large bundles and bags to the stoning despite being instructed not to do so.
Women were seen approaching the site carrying children at hip level while balancing bundles on their heads. Actually stoning was in some way fearful. Women were more aggressive during the ritual than men.
Many pilgrims had ignored the Holy Prophet’s example of throwing pebbles with the size of a pea. Instead they were throwing large rocks, chunks of concrete, sandals and even cell phones over other pilgrims’ heads.
After the stoning, those pilgrims who had not deputized others to perform the sacrifice on their behalf, proceeded to the area of the abattoirs. Others went directly to have their heads shaved. Some pilgrims had their entire heads shaved down to the scalp. Others trimmed their hair.
It turned out that sunburn was one of the biggest problems the dispensaries were having to deal with in the aftermath of the extreme sun at Arafat. Fortunately the weather at Mina was bearable. It was warm and cloudy, with the sun bursting only sporadically through the overcast skies.
Another way in which the pilgrims were harming themselves was by smoking. Even at Arafat pilgrims neglected their devotions to have a puff. At Mina this negative activity increased and no one appeared ashamed to be indulging in such an unhealthy habit in the course of performing rituals of intense spirituality.
The majority of the pilgrims chose to have the ritual slaughter performed on their behalf by Islamic charities, but that still left thousands queuing at abattoirs on the outskirts of Mina. Small trucks brought the animals to the abattoirs where they were selected by the pilgrims. It was very systematic. At the abattoirs the poor of Makkah were congregated to take away their share of the meat and there was also a long line of refrigerated trucks standing by to distribute the meat to charities in the city and beyond.
After completing the rituals of the day, thousands of pilgrims lined up to phone home. Telephone cards were sold on the streets near the public phones. Many of those in the queues were women.
For the journalists covering the event, yesterday’s Eid Al-Adha was one of mixed emotions. Throughout the day, calls continued to come in from overseas to the journalists at the scene.
News organizations in distant nations wanted the latest reports and reassurance that all was going well for the tens of thousands of their citizens who had come to perform Haj. For most, thanks be to Allah, the rituals have so far moved forward without undue difficulty.
“The pilgrimage has gone much easier than I expected,” said Ahmad Mafouz, a 36-year-old Iraqi from Baghdad.
“The facilities are excellent. I have prayed for the continued success of the Saudi government. Here, I’ve been able to feel and see the spirit of Islam. It is at times like this that I am assured that Islam will vanquish all its enemies.”
