Ramadan is like the crescent moon — spotted by everyone yet seen differently. The encounter with the holy month differs from person to person for a number of reasons. The eyes of others are windows through which we can experience Ramadan in a way that is enriching as well as enlightening.
An elderly Pakistani, Imrana Ali, visiting a relative in the country for a month, explained, “The differences between Ramadan here in the Kingdom and in Pakistan are not that many. As is done locally, immediate and extended family gather at the house of the most senior family member for iftar. In fact, iftar — the meal at which the fast is broken — is concentrated on rather than suhoor — the last meal eaten before beginning the day’s fast.”
In Pakistan, she said, the fast is also broken with dates and cool beverages such as “rooh afza” — a concentrated syrup-like substance which comes bottled and is diluted with water. “Rooh afza” is made of rose water, “keora” and fruits. At times, she said, “rooh afza” was diluted with milk instead of water. “Lassi” is another traditional drink served for iftar. It is made of yogurt mixed with fine sugar and served with ice.
The basics for iftar include fruit salad made of bananas, apples, oranges and grapes mixed with salt, sugar, lemon and a pinch of pepper. “Samosa” — a local tradition — is also popular; the dough is softer and is rolled around vegetable stuffing and meat. “Pakora” — a paste of chick peas, chili and salt, as well as fried onions, fried chopped potatoes, fried spinach leaves or small green chilies — is served with chutney, made from tamarind, ground cumin, salt and pepper and with “paratha” — a soft bread made with ghee.
When asked about the greatest difference between Ramadan in the Kingdom and in Pakistan, she said: “If anything, I miss the family gatherings, though there is a huge Pakistani community here. And of course, there are the Two Holy Mosques here.”
Leila Hazmi, a Moroccan housewife, said: “In my country, preparations are made before the month. Even the dress code changes during Ramadan. Women usually put aside Western dress in favor of the Moroccan ‘jilbab’ — a richly woven one-piece dress with a hood.
“As in other countries, there are certain foods that are specifically a part of the Ramadan diet. One example is ‘salu,’ a type of sweet made from roasted flour, roasted nuts mixed with mustaka, herbs, butter and sugar.”
According to Leila, one of the differences between Saudi iftar and Morocco iftar is that back home there is nothing gradual about breaking the fast. “People don’t break their fast with something to drink and few dates. They begin eating immediately and eat everything at one time. In fact, everything is placed on the iftar table, even the desserts, things like ‘al-garyoush’ and ‘shubakia,’ pretzel-like sweets dipped in honey-like syrup and dotted with sesame seeds.”
Leila also recalled a Moroccan custom. “We have something called a ‘darah’ — the word is derived from the Arabic word for circle or cycle and we use the word to describe the visits and family gatherings which take place during the month. Things happen in a rotating way, with everybody taking turns being guest and host.”
Mariam, an Indonesian employee, has been living in the Kingdom for the past 19 years. “However,” she said, “I am in touch with how things are back home and nothing much has changed.” As for the basics of an Indonesian iftar, she said: “We break our fast not with dates but with a sweet soup. The soup is made from boiled brown lentils or boiled green beans or green Indonesian beans. The water is then drained and coconut milk is then added. Cane sugar is added and the dish is served in a bowl placed in the center of the iftar table.
“After we break the fast with soup and some water, we pray and then 10 minutes later, we come back to finish our iftar which consists of rice cakes, fried fish and rice, all served with ‘sanba,’ a hot chili sauce as well as ‘gadu gadu,’ a kind of sauce.
“When it comes to socializing, our doors are always open unless we are asleep. The idea is to share and share alike. If one neighbor hasn’t cooked, it is only natural that another will share his or her iftar. Nothing much has changed. What I miss the most about Ramadan is family and friends.”
It seems that though the dishes and table-settings may differ, it is the people who share and sit around the tables who give Ramadan its special meaning. As one Jordanian resident said, “Ramadan should be all about heart and soul and food for thought rather than food for our stomachs.”