MAKKAH, 18 January 2005 — They saw the fury of nature. They survived. They have clung to their faith in Almighty and are seeking solace, courage and forgiveness by performing Haj.

Pilgrims have come in large number from tsunami-ravaged regions to Saudi Arabia for performing Haj. Most of them have come from Indonesia after overcoming the nightmare of the tidal waves which devastated them. About 200,000 Indonesians were expected to arrive for this Haj. But it is still unknown how many of those would-be pilgrims were killed or made refugees by the waves that first steamrolled northwestern Indonesia and raced across the Indian Ocean within hours — taking some 162,000 lives, more than two-thirds of them Indonesians.

The tragedy has left a shadow on this year’s Haj which comes to a climax tomorrow. “Everything changed,” said 17-year-old Takou Rizky, one of the pilgrims. “We saw death face to face. Tsunami has made us stronger and strengthened our faith,” he said.

Another tsunami survivor, Alim Avi from Weligama, 18 km from Galle in Sri Lanka, recalled his brush with the tidal waves. “We lived near the beach. When we were in the house we heard people shouting about the waves. We got out, and before we could talk waves reached our compound. I held on to all our three children. But when the waves overwhelmed us, we got separated. I remember floating and being smashed against trees,” she said. I survived. And I’m here to perform Haj and thank Almighty for saving my life.”

These pilgrims are getting support and encouragement from local officials and residents to perform their religious rites comfortably. They get special care and attention wherever they go in the holy city.

One Indonesian man spoke of his surprise over the dozens of people who noticed his nationality and offered condolences for the more than 100,000 Indonesians who died on Dec. 26. Another Indonesian found a quiet spot to pray for a lost friend.

Mohamed Saleh, a teacher from Jakarta, stood outside the Grand Mosque and prayed, his hands raised and his eyes filled with tears. “I have lost a friend in the tsunami, and I pray for him and the souls of all those who have perished,” said Saleh. “I pray that God will mend broken hearts and give them courage to overcome the grief.”

About 100 Indonesian women, walking together, many holding hands, wore headscarves identifying them as from the devastated region of Aceh.

None of them speak or understand Arabic, but at the word “tsunami,” several made wave-like gestures and gave looks of horror — opening their eyes wide and covering their mouths with their hands. Others sighed deeply, before all melted into the crowd circling the Kaaba.

Some of the pilgrims said that the disaster was God’s way of punishing the erring millions. “This is a punishment from God because everybody is leading a wretched life,” one pilgrim said.

“All of us are to be blamed for the tsunami. There is no sense of modesty or religious fervor anymore. People have gone so far away from God. It’s a message to say, ‘Look, I’m the boss’,” he said, and added that he was here for the atonement of his sins and to seek forgiveness from God.

Another pilgrim, Dien Syamsuddin, said he has been praying in particular for God to protect orphans of tsunami from child traffickers. “I’ve been praying for the dead and their families, but I’m really concerned about the children who have been orphaned by the disaster,” he said.

Some of the pilgrims thanked Islamic countries for sending aid.

Dahlan, 21, from Aceh, praised Saudi generosity, noting the $84 million raised for victims in a recent telethon. “But we need to do more,” he said.