Mountain gorillas are the biggest of the four gorilla subspecies that still cling to survival. For years, they have been mercilessly hunted by poachers. Today, they can only be found in two locales: Virunga Volcanic Mountains (shared between Uganda, Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of Congo) and Uganda’s Bwindi Impenetrable National Park. A 2010 census puts the total population of mountain gorillas slightly less than 800 individuals. Finding a surviving gorilla group is like looking for a needle in the lush green and dense African rainforest.

After a two-day travel that saw me boarding two flights, taking one bus ride and hoping on the back of a pickup, I finally made it to Buhoma. A tiny village located inside Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, Buhoma marks the starting point of gorilla tracking, and the only possible mean to spot gorillas in the wild. Regulated by the Uganda Wildlife Authority, gorilla tracking is a daily activity that sees a group of tourists venturing out in the wild looking for mountain gorillas. Mountain gorillas live in defined social structures known as gorilla groups, and in Bwindi, there are six such groups. I had a permit in hand to see one of these groups: the Rushegura group. 

At 7:45 a.m., I was one of a group of eight super enthusiastic tourists standing right in front of the national park headquarter. In order to avoid causing any disturbance to the gorillas in their natural habitat, eight is the maximum number of tourists allowed to visit one gorilla group at any given day. Our gorilla tracking started with a 45-minute briefing that included watching a short documentary about mountain gorillas, as well as a mini lecture covering the dos and don’ts when around being a gorilla group (please see Gorillas Etiquette).

At 8:30 a.m. sharp, we were off for our “gorillas in the mist” adventure.

As the name might imply, Bwindi Impenetrable National Park is not an easy country. It is a thick rainforest that occupies a hilly terrain where the mountain gorillas dwell deep inside. For four hours, we had been walking in a line following our chief guide who, from time to time, used his two-way radio. Each tourist wishing to see the mountain gorillas has to purchase a one-day permit that costs a staggering $500. Though a big chunk of the ticket price goes to fund conservational efforts, nobody likes to pay this sum and come back empty handed. To make sure almost every visiting tourists see the gorillas, the Uganda Wildlife Authority sends a whole group of trackers and guides ahead of the group with the tourists. They provide directions of where to find the gorillas, and they were the ones our chief guide communicated with through his two-way radio.

It was almost noon when our chief guide broke the news that the Rushegura group has been spotted, and it was just a matter of minutes before seeing them. Bursting with excitement, we kept our voices low as we approached the spot advised by the trackers. Crouching midst the thick foliage, we waited until the moment came and tree branches were shaken just to unveil a six-foot tall giant with thick black hair except for a silverfish strain on its back. The well-built alpha male slowly turned its head to look at us before calmly walking a few meters from where we crouched. Male gorillas grow a silverfish back hair as they grow older, and so they claim the name silverback. Each gorilla group is led by one silverback who is dubbed the alpha male. As the silverback continued its path, it was followed by the rest of the gorilla group: younger males still with a black back, females with juveniles clinging to their chests, as well as lovable young ones. Frantically pressing the camera shutter, the gorilla group decided to give me, and fellow tourists, a golden opportunity as they decided to break for a while. As if posing for us, mothers attended to their hungry babies, while the young kids wrestled each other just for fun. Older members started foraging for food, while the silverback took to higher ground making sure everything is going all right. Demonstrating primate patterns, that were not that far off from our humanistic ones, I was mesmerized by the docile giants and how they behaved.

Time flies, and in no time, one hour, or as long as tourists are allowed to spend with any gorilla group, had passed. Our chief guide gently asked us to pack our cameras as we started our trek back to Buhoma.

The way back took less than two hours, during which I couldn’t help but thinking how the media can influence people’s perception. What I had witnessed during my gorilla adventure is way far from how Hollywood filmmakers portrayed gorillas in King Kong. I guess we need to see so we can believe.
 

Most of the Middle East national carriers fly Entebbe (Uganda’s only international airport), from where you can get an easy 30-minute taxi ride to the capital Kampala.
 

If you want to take planning off your mind, then drop Backpackers Hostel & Campsite a line. They arrange tours to about everywhere in Uganda, including Bwindi Impenetrable National Park.

Backpackers Hostel & Campsite

Tel: +256 (0) 772-430587
 

Gorillas share 98 percent of our DNA. However, years of living in the polluted concrete jungle had rendered our immunity system stronger, especially when dealing with such diseases like flu. If you feel sick on the day of your scheduled gorilla tracking, please forfeit your permit.

Big no-nos when around the gorillas include eating, smoking, using flash when taking pictures, speaking in a loud voice, and pointing towards the gorillas.

Leave absolutely nothing behind; not even a spit.

Seven meters is the safe distance you need to keep between yourself and the gorillas

Last but not least, never ever run in front of a gorilla. If, for whatever reason, one charges, you need to crouch. (I know it is easier said than done.)