From Sweden to Hollywood, Arab designers shine among celebrities
Updated 09 September 2024
Arab News
DUBAI: From US actress Grace Van Patten flaunting heels by Andrea Wazen to British singer Ellie Goulding hitting the red carpet in a Zuhair Murad gown, celebrities kicked off September in style.
Van Patten opted for the Katy Lace Sling heels by Lebanese footwear designer Andrea Wazen at the season 2 premiere Of Hulu's "Tell Me Lies" in California.
The actress, who has appeared in two Netflix films and two Hulu mini-series, paired the black heels with a baby pink slip dress at the premiere.
For her part, Goulding showed off a floor-length number by Lebanese designer-to-the-stars Zuhair Murad, hailing from the label’s Resort 2025 collection. The “Love Me Like You Do” singer chose the dress for an appearance at the Perfect World Foundation's Honorary Conservation Award ceremony in Gothenburg, Sweden, where she was given The Perfect World Foundation Award, following in the footsteps of previous recipients such as Sir David Attenborough, Dr. Jane Goodall, and Prince Albert II of Monaco.
Ragnhild Jacobsson, CEO and co-founder of The Perfect World Foundation, praised Goulding's environmental efforts in a released statement, saying: "Ellie Goulding is a respected force as a climate and nature champion. Her inspirational efforts to mobilize the youth in saving our planet's biological diversity are admirable. We are proud to honor her as this year's recipient."
In another landmark achievement for an Arab designer, Saudi couturier Mohammed Ashi, the founder of Paris-based Ashi Studio, saw US actress Demi Moore grace the cover of Variety magazine in one of his creations.
Moore was photographed for the cover of the Hollywood title’s September issue in a black gown from Ashi’s Sculpted Clouds collection — his Fall 2024 Couture show.
Ashi became the first couturier from the Gulf to join the Federation de la Haute Couture in Paris as a guest member in 2023 and has since shown his collections on the official Paris Haute Couture Week calendar.
DUBAI: Guess this week tapped Saudi Arabia-based Argentine model Georgina Rodriguez as the face of its 2024 holiday campaign.
Set to launch this month, the collection includes a range of footwear, from high heels to boots, along with ready-to-wear pieces, outerwear and accessories.
Rodriguez, a familiar face for Guess, was photographed by the brand’s longtime collaborator Nima Benati, showcasing an array of looks from the new holiday line.
In one shot, she reclined on a sofa in a nude mini-dress embellished with diamonds. Another look featured her in a satin animal-print dress, paired with a shaggy pink coat and nude heels, accentuated by a bold red handbag. She also appeared in a long camel coat, belted at the waist, with matching snakeskin boots and a handbag.
In another outfit, Rodriguez stunned in a deep red knit dress, styled with knee-high boots and a red handbag. She also posed in black-and-white photos, wearing a denim jumpsuit and pointed-toe heels.
Creative Director Paul Marciano emphasized their strong ongoing collaboration in a statement, saying: “Georgina perfectly embodies the spirit of the Guess woman — her beauty, confidence, and elegance make her the ideal face of our brand.
“Working with her over the years has been a wonderful experience, and this new campaign brings her iconic look and the essence of the brand to the forefront once again,” he added.
Meanwhile, Rodriguez said: “I was delighted when Guess asked me to be the face of the Holiday campaign. It is truly an honor to be part of the Guess family, and I am absolutely thrilled for the wonderful opportunity to be a Guess Girl again.”
Rodriguez was in Paris last week for the city’s prestigious fashion show. She attended the Messika and Vetements shows.
For Messika, she donned an off-the-shoulder, form-fitting silver dress with a metallic finish and slight draping at the bust, complementing her look with silver pointed-toe heels, a glitzy diamond necklace and matching earrings.
Meanwhile, for Vetements, Rodriguez was dressed in a sleek, off-the-shoulder black velvet mini dress that she paired with sheer black tights and classic black stiletto heels. For accessories, Rodriguez added a statement diamond necklace and matching earrings with her hair styled in a wet-look finish.
DUBAI: Here are highlights from Sotheby’s upcoming autumn auctions of ancient and modern art from the Arab world.
Mohammed Al-Saleem
‘Untitled’
Last week, Sotheby’s Dubai hosted an exhibition of highlights from the auction house’s upcoming bi-annual Middle Eastern art week at its headquarters in London, which involves two auctions — “Arts of the Islamic World and India” and “Modern and Contemporary Middle East.” The exhibition included centuries-old Islamic artefacts from the Arab world, alongside canvases by some of the region’s most significant modern and contemporary artists. Among the latter was this untitled work by Al-Saleem, described by Sotheby’s as “one of Saudi Arabia’s foremost modern artists” who “has greatly contributed to the growth and evolution of art in the Kingdom.” The painter “belonged to a faction of cultural development in Saudi that sought a balance between the modernist and traditionalist aesthetics. Central to the artist’s oeuvre is a mediation between abstraction and figuration, in which he employs geometric forms to capture his surroundings,” the auction house states. This particular piece is expected to fetch up to £100,000 (roughly SAR500,000) at auction later this month.
Umayyad bronze buck
The highlight of the “Arts of the Islamic World and India” auction is this exceptionally rare bronze sculpture dating back to the 8th century CE, which is expected to fetch up to £3 million at auction. It is, Sotheby’s states, “indisputably one of the finest known animal sculptures from the Umayyad and early Abbasid period” and “one of only two known animal sculptures with a documentary inscription, recording the name of both its maker (Abdallah ibn Thabit) and patron (Ubaydallah ibn Jabir).” The is remarkable not just for its age and condition, but for its aesthetic merit. “Its cylindrical body gains movement by the sloping line that runs from the buck’s head to its deep rounded chest,” Sotheby’s notes. “This line shifts the visual weight slightly towards the rear, subtly emphasized by the angle of the animal’s well-articulated legs. It is as if he is tensing as he maintains his alertness…” A report compiled for Sotheby’s by Dr. Julian Raby concludes: “The buck … is a major addition to our understanding of figurative sculpture in the second century of the Hijra … It also happens to be a wondrous and sophisticated object in its own right.”
Leaf from Arabic translation of Dioscorides’ ‘De Materia Medica’
Between 50 and 70 CE, Greek physician Pedanius Dioscorides wrote his five-volume encyclopedia of herbal medicine, which remained the leading reference on the topic for more than 1,500 years and was used extensively across Europe and the Middle East, with the original text and illustrations being copied multiple times. This double-sided, illustrated leaf comes from an Arabic translation produced in Mesopotamia in the 13th century. “In the Arab context, the text was important not just for its pharmacological and medical information, but also for its role in developing the art of manuscript illumination,” Sotheby’s notes. This leaf, it continues, is an example of the School of Baghdad miniatures and “marks the bridge between the classically rooted Byzantine style of book illustration of the Late Antique period and the genesis of what would later be termed by Western scholars ‘Persian painting.’”
Ayman Baalbaki
‘7ay Jober’
The portrayal of war — whether through his expressionist portraits of fighters or paintings of ruined urban landscapes — has been a constant theme throughout the career of Baalbaki, one of Lebanon’s most popular contemporary artists. In this work, created in 2014, the artist shifted his focus from his homeland to the civil war raging in neighboring Syria, specifically the Jober district of Damascus. “Baalbaki’s works during this time mark an enduring commitment to communicating the plight of regional conflict,” Sotheby’s states. “Harnessing materiality and texture, Baalbaki presents a flurry of skillfully arranged, gestural strokes, harnessing emotion through mark-making.”
An illuminated Qur’an copied by Ya’qut Al-Musta’simi in 1275-6 CE
Sotheby’s describes Al-Musta’simi as “by far the most famous calligrapher in the history of Islamic art” whose “works have — for over 700 years — been among the most sought-after examples of the Islamic arts of the book.” This example of his work, written in naskh script, is “an exciting addition to a very small corpus of manuscripts reliably attributed to the calligrapher, and provides an insight into the workings of the royal scribal ateliers of Baghdad in the late 13th century.” According to the auction house, this is the only known Qur’an by Al-Musta’simi “not housed in a major library or museum.” It is expected to fetch between £600,000 to 800,000.
A group of 12 pottery dishes from Abbasid Iraq
This set of iridescent bowls is thought to have been created in the ninth or 10th century CE in Abbasid Iraq. It “perfectly showcases the decorative technique of lusterware — one of the most sophisticated, expensive and difficult of the period — by potters who sought to imitate the shine of gold,” Sotheby’s states. “These beautiful examples offer a rich array of designs, from animal motifs to abstract palmettes.”
Recipes for success: Chef Benjamin Clement offers tips and advice on cooking
Updated 04 October 2024
Hams Saleh
DUBAI: Having helped three different restaurants achieve three Michelin stars, French patissier Benjamin Clement was quite a catch for La Petite Maison, where he is currently group pastry chef, overseeing the menu and training at several outlets, including in Riyadh, a position he has held since 2022.
Clement says his passion for pastry began at “a very young age,” experimenting in his family’s kitchen. He studied at the Lycée Hôtelier Les Petites Bruyères in France, earning a degree in food, baking and pastry.
Here, Clement discusses tasting, tang, and teamwork.
What was the most common mistake you made when starting out?
Not fully engaging with the process of tasting. Just as our brains require time and effort to develop and learn new concepts, our palate also needs to be trained to recognize and appreciate a wide range of flavors. Tasting is not a passive experience; it demands focus, attention, and practice to truly grasp the intricacies of different tastes and their unique characteristics.
What’s your top tip for amateur chefs?
Cook your meals with love, because no flavor can compare to that of a dish made with heart and dedication. When you take the time to prepare food with care, passion, and attention to detail, it elevates the meal. The love you put into the process infuses every bite, turning simple ingredients into a memorable experience that nourishes both the body and the soul. There’s a special kind of magic in food crafted with thoughtfulness, transforming it into much more than just a meal; it becomes a true labor of love.
What one ingredient can enhance any dish?
For me, lemon juice is a vital element of seasoning. Its bright, tangy acidity cuts through richness and adds a refreshing layer of complexity, lifting and balancing flavors in a way few other ingredients can. Whether it’s a splash in a marinade, a finishing touch on a salad, or a dash over grilled fish, lemon juice brings out the best in other ingredients.
When you go out to eat, do you find yourself critiquing the meal?
I make an effort not to, as it can detract from the emotional connection and joy of the dining experience. That said, there are times when my natural inclination to analyze kicks in, and it becomes challenging to immerse myself fully in the moment — my tendency to dissect the flavors, presentation, and technique can sometimes prevent me from enjoying the meal as purely as I’d like.
What’s your favorite cuisine?
French. It holds a special place in my heart because it evokes fond memories of home. The rich flavors, elegant presentations, and the wide variety of dishes transport me back to cherished moments shared over meals with family and friends. The artistry and attention to detail in French cooking truly captivate me, making each dining experience not just a meal but a delightful journey down memory lane.
What’s your go-to dish if you have to cook something quickly at home?
Pasta. It’s incredibly easy and fast to make, and it also offers endless versatility in terms of toppings, sauces, and flavors. Whether it's a simple aglio e olio, a rich marinara, or something creative like a pesto with seasonal vegetables, pasta allows me to experiment while still being time-efficient. The flexibility is what I love most, as it lets me mix and match ingredients based on what I have on hand, so I never get bored of it.
What customer behavior most frustrates you?
Today, appearance often takes precedence over flavor. Social media certainly influences this trend, as many guests prioritize capturing the perfect photo over fully enjoying their meal. As a result, dishes are frequently assessed based on their visual appeal rather than the overall dining experience. This shift highlights the importance of aesthetics in attracting attention, but it can sometimes overshadow a genuine appreciation of taste and flavor.
What’s your favorite dish to cook? And why?
Roast chicken with potatoes is a classic French family dish typically enjoyed during Sunday meals. What makes this dish even more special is that it’s often prepared using home-grown ingredients, adding a personal touch and a burst of fresh flavor to the meal. It always reminds me of a leisurely Sunday gathering around the dining table with loved ones, celebrating the simple pleasures of home-cooked food made with care and love.
What’s the most challenging dish for you to get right?
A Floating Island. It’s a classic dessert — simple and elegant, but mine never quite measures up to my mom’s version. Her take on this traditional dish is truly special; the way she balances the airy meringue with the velvety custard and adds her own unique twist makes it unforgettable. Each bite transports me back to my childhood and fills me with warmth and nostalgia.
As a leader, are you a disciplinarian? Or are you more laidback?
Early on, I was more of a disciplinarian, believing that strict guidelines and expectations were the keys to success. But as I gained experience, I realized that each individual responds differently to different styles of leadership and that led me to understand the profound importance of fostering strong, trusting relationships with my team members. When they feel valued and understood, they’re more motivated and engaged, which ultimately means higher performance. So emphasizing connection and empathy in my leadership has made for a more positive and productive work environment.
Chef Benjamin’s La Petite Duchesse Rose recipe
INGREDIENTS
Choux pastry:
96g water
96g whole milk
Sprinkle of salt
Sprinkle of caster sugar
90g butter
108g flour
180g whole eggs
Craquelin:
75g butter
90g sugar
90g flour
Pink colorant
Crème Légère jasmin:
300g whole milk
60g jasmine tea
50g egg yolk
56g caster sugar
32g cornflour
37.5g butter
Raspberry compote:
1500g frozen raspberry
500g caster sugar
30g pectine
45g lemon juice
Pink glaze:
1500g cream
1100g neutral glaze
16 gelatine leaf (gold)
1750g Ivoire chocolate
Q.S pink colorant
Raspberry ganache:
150g raspberry frozen puree
75g whipping cream
275g white chocolate
20g butter
INSTRUCTIONS:
Bring the water, whole milk, salt, caster sugar and butter to a boil.
Remove from the heat and add the flour, stirring until it forms a dough.
Return the dough to medium heat and cook for a couple of minutes to dry out the Pâte à Choux.
Transfer the dough to a mixer and add whole fresh eggs one at a time. Pipe the dough into 10g and 20g portions. Preheat the oven to 210°C, place the Pâte à Choux inside, and turn off the oven for 10 minutes. Afterward, bake at 180°C — eight minutes for the small choux and 12 minutes for the larger ones.
Mix all remaining ingredients together, then roll the dough and place it in the freezer.
Cook the custard for two minutes at a boil. Add the gelatin and butter at the end, then mix and allow to cool in the fridge. Once cooled, smooth the custard using a KitchenAid with a paddle attachment. Gently fold in 60g of whipped cream using a spatula (Maryse), then transfer the custard to a piping bag.
Defrost the frozen raspberries with caster sugar (1). Mix pectin NH with caster sugar (2) and add it to the raspberry mixture. Cook until it reaches a boil, then continue cooking for two minutes. Add lemon juice and cool the mixture in the fridge.
Bring the cream and neutral glaze to a boil, then melt the gelatin into it. Pour over Ivoire chocolate and mix thoroughly. Add the food coloring using a hand blender, strain the mixture, and bring the glaze to 28°C for glazing.
Bring raspberry purée and whipping cream to a boil, then pour over white chocolate. Create an emulsion, and when the mixture reaches 40°C, add butter. Store in a container with cling film directly touching the surface and place in the fridge.
ASSEMBLY
Fill the choux buns with the jasmine cream and raspberry compote.
Dip each choux in the pink glaze.
Place the small choux on the top of the big choux.
Decorate with raspberry ganache, fresh raspberry, and edible flowers.
‘FC 25’ — EA’s football simulation is as addictive as ever, for better or worse
Updated 04 October 2024
Adam Grundey
DUBAI: As makers of the most popular video-game simulation of the world’s most popular sport, Electronic Arts could churn out any old rubbish and still make billions of dollars. Thankfully, the company’s not (quite) that cynical yet.
Instead, “FC 25” (the second iteration of EA’s soccer sim since losing its long-standing FIFA license) brings a significant overhaul of the in-game tactics system with the introduction of FC IQ, giving you even more control over the minutiae of the mentality and movement of your team and players. Want your fullbacks to slide into central midfield when you’ve got possession like all the hippest teams now do? No problem. Want your center forward to operate as a false nine, dragging the opposition’s center backs out of position? Can do. And the roles you assign really do make a difference to the way you can play the game. It’s a positive addition.
As is the new mode Rush — a frantic and fun multi-player co-op 5-a-side game (the goalkeepers are AI-controlled) in which you pick a member of your squad to play with and team up with four friends (or strangers). Rush is part of Ultimate Team, which remains the heart of the game (and the main source of income for EA) — essentially a card-collection game with some football thrown in: to really do well at it, you either need to be a pro-level gamer or be willing to spend more real-world dollars to get a shot at landing the elite-level players you’ll require to really compete at the top level. And EA is getting cannier and cannier at persuading gamers to part with their cash.
Money-grubbing aside, “FC 25” is another almost-excellent sim that really does feel immersive and authentic when you’re playing it. “Almost-excellent” because there are still flaws, from the nightmarish graphical glitches when players collide to the continuing frustrating imbalance that means slower players quickly become a hindrance, no matter how great their talent — making Harry Kane, for example, less desirable for most ‘managers’ than a much lower-rated speed merchant in attack.
For all of that, with its one-time arch rival “Pro Evolution Soccer” (now “eFootball”) continuing to fail to impress, and with no sign of an official FIFA-sanctioned game this year, “FC 25” gives football fans enough thrills and depth to justify buying it.
Book Review: ‘Principles for Dealing With the Changing World Order’
Dalio, an American investor and founder of Bridgewater Associates, translated his rich experience in finance into economic cycles, political systems, and the rise and fall of empires through history
Updated 03 October 2024
Haifa Alshammari
Published in 2021, the book “Principles for Dealing With the Changing World Order: Why Nations Succeed and Fail” explores the dynamics that shape global structures in terms of power.
The author, Ray Dalio, highlights historical patterns, explaining in detail the reasons behind the rise of certain countries and the fall of other nations as well, while at the same time providing a system on how to understand the shifting geopolitical landscape.
Dalio, an American investor and founder of Bridgewater Associates, translated his rich experience in finance into economic cycles, political systems, and the rise and fall of empires through history.
Further, he outlines several principles through the chapters that control these transitions, focusing specifically on the connection between economic and cultural aspects.
One of the book’s strengths is the author’s simple structure. Dalio divides his thoughts into digestible sections for his readers, explaining complex terms as simple paragraphs and presenting major indicators of society such as wealth distribution and local conflicts.
His analytics add details of special events while also providing readers with the tools to anticipate future developments.
What is worth mentioning is that the author’s insights are somehow relevant to the present-day changing world, where globalization and technological advancements challenge traditional power dynamics.
He emphasizes the potential for a conflict between established powers and rising countries while stressing the importance of adaptability and resilience in an era marked by uncertainty.
However, some readers argue that the author’s view may be overly simplifying complex geopolitical realities. While his foundations are based on historical patterns, the challenges of this time, such as climate change and artificial intelligence, require adequate solutions beyond historical analogies.
Overall, the book was rated 4.7 out of 5 by over 7,000 readers. It stimulates critical thinking and analysis of the political relations of the world we live in.
The author’s mixing of historical analysis of events and personal insights as well makes the book a must for readers such as policymakers, business leaders, and others who might be interested in understanding the global powers that are shaping the world.