In memory of Safeya Binzagr: ‘She had a remarkable eye for beauty’  

In memory of Safeya Binzagr: ‘She had a remarkable eye for beauty’  
Safeya Binzagr. (Supplied)
Short Url
Updated 20 September 2024
Follow

In memory of Safeya Binzagr: ‘She had a remarkable eye for beauty’  

In memory of Safeya Binzagr: ‘She had a remarkable eye for beauty’  
  • The Saudi artist, who died earlier this month, led an inspiring life of a ‘true pioneer’  

DUBAI: Safeya Binzagr, one of Saudi Arabia’s foremost female artists, died on Sept. 12 at the age of 84. Art institutions, artists, cultural experts and enthusiasts and former students were quick to pay tribute.  

Among them was the influential Swiss curator and art critic Hans Ulrich Olbrist, who posted a picture of a handwritten note from Binzagr from 2022. “If you have the will, you will,” it read; a quote that encapsulates Binzagr’s own story as a persevering artist, who has been affectionately called “the mother of Saudi art.”  

Binzagr was born in 1940 in the Harat Al-Sham neighborhood of Jeddah, a place she developed a long-lasting bond with. From a young age, at a time when it was rare for Saudi and Arab women to travel, Binzagr had the opportunity to see the world outside of the Kingdom. When she was seven, her family relocated to Egypt, where she was educated until high school.  




'Zabun' 1969. (Supplied)

Although she was away from her beloved Jeddah, the streets of Cairo reminded her of home. “The scent of the old alleys lingered with her, their images dwelled in her memory, and a strong sense of nostalgia pulled her back to a special place enriched by the warmth of its people, their valuable customs and traditions,” reads a statement published by Darat Safeya Binzagr, the late artist’s cultural center. 

England played an important role in her formative years too. After completing her education in Egypt, Binzagr moved there to attend finishing school, and in 1976, she graduated with a degree in drawing and graphics from London’s prestigious St Martin’s School of Art.  

1968 was a defining year for the artist, then in her late twenties. She showed her paintings publicly for the first time in the Kingdom (along with her Saudi contemporary, the late Egypt-trained artist Mounirah Mosly) at Dar at-Tarbiyah al-Haditha School in Jeddah, making them reportedly the first women to exhibit their art in Saudi Arabia.  




Traditional costumes inside Darat Safeya Binzagr. (Supplied)

During the 1970s and 1980s, the ever-active Binzagr held shows in Jeddah (where she eventually returned), Dharan, Madinah, London, Paris and Geneva. She continues to be honored in public events decades later. For instance, at the Diriyah Biennale in Riyadh earlier this year, a selection of her colorful drawings of women in traditional Saudi attires charmed audiences.  

Binzagr’s oeuvre was mostly devoted to telling a variety of narratives surrounding Saudi culture, everyday scenery and architectural heritage. Whether depicting a wedding ceremony or pilgrims at the Holy Kaaba, children playing games or hardworking fishermen, she was a dedicated chronicler of her surroundings, but also a preserver of native traditions, which some were forgetting as the country rapidly modernized. 

Perhaps Binzagr’s greatest work is “Al Zabun,” her stunning 1969 portrait of a woman dressed in a bright yellow gown, seated against an ornamental background. It has been described as “The Arab Mona Lisa” or “The Mona Lisa of Hijaz.” The title, according to a statement from Darat Safeya Binzagr, refers to the type of dress the woman is wearing.  




'Memories' 1987. (Supplied)

“The bodice underneath, which served as a vest or bra, was fastened by six buttons of silver, gold or diamonds — depending of her wealth — all connected by a chain,” the statement explains. “Her hair is worn in the Mihrama wa Mudawwarah style, in which the hair was braided with a cotton scarf coiled around the head, then covered with a cap.”  

But arguably Binzagr’s greatest achievement in her storied career was the establishment of her namesake cultural center in Jeddah in 2000, where countless students have had the opportunity to study art, thanks to Binzagr’s generosity and commitment to education.  




Safeya's paintings. (Supplied)

One of the center’s former pupils, artist Daniah Alsaleh, told Arab News: “I had the privilege of studying at Safeya Binzagr’s atelier from the early 2000s until around 2008, under the guidance of painter Dorothy Boyer. Safeya created a unique space where students could immerse themselves in the principles of drawing and painting, something that was quite rare at the time. She would often visit our lessons, sharing her personal experiences and stories about her work. Her passion extended beyond art — she was a dedicated collector of traditional Saudi costumes, tea cups, and various artifacts, and had a remarkable eye for beauty. Safeya also opened her extensive art library to the public, fostering a sense of community and education.  

“I am incredibly grateful for the impact she had on my artistic journey,” Alsaleh continued. “Safeya was a true pioneer, dedicated to both art and education, and her contributions will continue to inspire many.” 


Christie’s expert highlights key pieces ahead of Islamic art sale in London

Christie’s expert highlights key pieces ahead of Islamic art sale in London
Updated 15 October 2024
Follow

Christie’s expert highlights key pieces ahead of Islamic art sale in London

Christie’s expert highlights key pieces ahead of Islamic art sale in London

DUBAI: Luxury auction house Christie’s is set to host its Art of the Islamic and Indian World sale at its headquarters in London on Oct. 24, with objects spanning more than 1,000 years of history.

Sara Plumbly, who heads up the auction house’s Art of the Islamic and Indian World department, spoke to Arab News about key pieces in the sale.

The auction will offer a curated selection of carpets, ceramics, manuscripts, textiles, works on paper and metalwork from across the Islamic world, some of which went on show at Christie’s Dubai outlet earlier this month.

The Oct. 24 sale will be led by a rare silk Safavid Polonaise carpet from the early 17th century, valued at between $1,300,000-$2,600,000, and a pair of bevelled Sasanian silver bottles from Iran, from the 6th or 7th century. 

A pair of bevelled Sasanian silver bottles. (Supplied)

The bottles are a highlight for Plumbly as they represent a rare look at a style of adornment that foreshadowed the early Islamic bevelled style of architecture style seen in Samarra, Iraq, in the 9th century.

“They’re a kind of pivotal piece in that they’re Sasanian, they’re pre-Islamic, but they are informing the art and the architecture of future dynasties,” she said of the gilt-and-silver pieces.

With an estimated value of $270,000–$390,000, the bevelled bottles were on show in Dubai and visitors marvelled at the strikingly modern style of the raised carvings.

A rare silk Safavid 'Polonaise' carpet. (Supplied)

“One of the things that appeals to me the most is the design, it almost feels Art Nouveau or something,” Plumbly said, referring to the form popularized at the start of the 20th century.

Another highlight in the auction is a Florentine portrait of Ottoman leader Suleiman the Magnificent, painted in Italy circa 1600.

Florentine portrait of Süleyman the Magnificent. (Supplied)

Artist Cristofano dell’Altissimo, or a member of his circle, painted the tenth and longest-reigning sultan of the Ottoman empire based on a previous painting of the sultan, which had been sent to Florence.

“Barbarossa met with his counterpart, a French admiral, and presented to him this wonderful ebony and ivory box that was … filled with portraits of Ottoman sultans … and so that was copied,” Plumbly explained, referring to Hayreddin Barbarossa, admiral of the Ottoman Navy.

The Italian version of the image of Suleiman became widely distributed across Europe and informed the European image of one of the most well-known Ottoman sultans in history.

The auction encompasses “everything from the of birth of Islam, so the 7th century, right up until the 19th, and from Spain to China,” Plumbly said of the wide-ranging lots set to go under the hammer next week.


Fashion Trust Arabia finalist Jihane Boumediane on preserving Morocco’s ancient wool-felting craft

Fashion Trust Arabia finalist Jihane Boumediane on preserving Morocco’s ancient wool-felting craft
Updated 14 October 2024
Follow

Fashion Trust Arabia finalist Jihane Boumediane on preserving Morocco’s ancient wool-felting craft

Fashion Trust Arabia finalist Jihane Boumediane on preserving Morocco’s ancient wool-felting craft

DUBAI: Jihane Boumediane, the designer behind Moroccan brand Jyann, is garnering significant attention as a finalist for Qatar’s Fashion Trust Arabia Award in the accessories category, ahead of the ceremony in Marrakesh on Oct. 24.

Founded in 2021, her brand is known for its handcrafted bags and hats. It draws deeply on Morocco’s rich heritage of wool felting — a craft that dates back thousands of years and is integral to the country’s cultural identity.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by jYANN (@jyannofficial)

Wool felting, an ancient textile-production method, is a labor-intensive process that involves manually pressing together wool fibers using water and soap.

This technique has been passed down through generations of Moroccan artisans, particularly in the Atlas Mountains where Boumediane sources her wool.

“The wool from this region has so many wonderful properties — it’s resistant, the fibers are not too long or short. It checks all the boxes — sustainable, versatile and beautiful,” explained the designer.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by jYANN (@jyannofficial)

For Boumediane, fashion is not just about aesthetics, it is about preserving and elevating traditional crafts while creating a positive impact throughout the supply chain.

“Our approach is to create an impact on all levels — from the sheep raisers in the High Atlas to the artisans who meticulously craft each piece,” she said.

Her commitment to sustainability and ethical production can be seen in her sourcing of local materials and desire to optimize water usage in wool processing.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by jYANN (@jyannofficial)

Each of her handbags can take anywhere from five to seven days to create and transcend seasons — making them last for years.

The Fashion Trust Arabia Award is a significant milestone for Boumediane and her brand. “Being recognized by such a platform validates the years of research and experimentation we’ve put into our craft,” she said.

Winning this award would enable her to scale her operations, recruit and train new artisans, and further her mission of social innovation. “It’s not just about making beautiful products; it’s about safeguarding ancient techniques and ensuring they thrive in the modern world.”

The FTA 2024 Advisory Board selected 18 finalists from applications submitted by emerging talent from across the Middle East and North Africa region.

They are competing in six categories: ready-to-wear, eveningwear, jewelry, accessories, fashion tech, and for the Franca Sozzani Debut Talent Award.

The board includes British celebrity-loved designer Erdem Moralioglu, jewelry designer Gaia Repossi and US designer Kelly Wearstler.

The winners will receive a financial grant of between $100,000 and $200,000, depending on the size of their business.


Jory Almaiman named brand ambassador by Spanish jewelry label

Jory Almaiman named brand ambassador by Spanish jewelry label
Updated 15 October 2024
Follow

Jory Almaiman named brand ambassador by Spanish jewelry label

Jory Almaiman named brand ambassador by Spanish jewelry label

DUBAI: Spanish jewelry brand PDPAOLA has appointed Saudi influencer Jory Almaiman as a brand ambassador.

The announcement is being marked with the launch of a new campaign featuring the content creator, in which Almaiman shows off key pieces from the label’s Icons Collection.

 

 

The collection boasts customizable initials, symbols, and minimalist designs and it is crafted using natural gemstones arranged with handset pavé detailing.

With 110,000 followers on Instagram, Almaiman is often spotted at international fashion industry events and recently attended the Tory Burch show at New York Fashion Week in September.

"As a Saudi woman, being appointed as a regional brand ambassador for an international luxury brand like PDPAOLA is incredibly significant. It symbolizes cultural exchange and collaboration, highlighting the unique identity of Saudi women in the global fashion landscape ... it’s about more than luxury it’s about making a statement and fostering connections across cultures." she told Arab News. 

 

 

Earlier this year, PDPAOLA, founded by siblings Paola and Humbert Sasplugas, expanded into Saudi Arabia with the opening of new stores in the Kingdom.

“We feel there is a natural fit with our value and selling proposition in this market,” Humbert previously told Arab News of their decision to target Saudi Arabia. “The key of PDPAOLA is that it constitutes a new jewelry language that blends effortless elegance with contemporary lines to create timeless sophisticated pieces,” he said.

“Our desire and plan is to naturally engage with Saudi women in a fresh yet respectful way,” he added. 

 

 

"Saudi women are becoming more empowered and expressive in their fashion choices, aligning perfectly with PDPAOLA’s focus on individuality and elegance," Almaiman said this week, pointing to a "blend of economic growth and cultural evolution (that) makes Saudi Arabia a prime location for PDPAOLA's expansion."

The brand offers rings, earrings, necklaces, and bracelets. It is known for shaping natural gemstones into signature shapes using contemporary techniques and blending them with traditional artistry.

The element of traditional artistry is important to Paola, who told Arab News that she has been passionate about jewelry since she was a young girl.

“I used to hand-make jewelry pieces for myself, intuitively discovering my identity with every creation,” she said.

“Our pieces are designed for modern living, versatile designs with a comfortable fit that transcend occasions and become the ultimate symbol of self-empowerment,” she explained. 

The founders are also planning to expand into key markets in the region, including the UAE, Qatar, Kuwait, Bahrain and Oman.


Celebrated art curator champions vision of climate action, public engagement at Lahore Biennale

Celebrated art curator champions vision of climate action, public engagement at Lahore Biennale
Updated 13 October 2024
Follow

Celebrated art curator champions vision of climate action, public engagement at Lahore Biennale

Celebrated art curator champions vision of climate action, public engagement at Lahore Biennale
  • John Tain’s career has spanned several countries where he digitally archived art before arriving in Pakistan
  • He shunned ‘museums and elite spaces’ and used public places for art installations to attract wider audience

LAHORE: A widely acclaimed art curator has transformed the third edition of the Lahore Biennale into an artistic engagement with ecology and the environment, selecting historic public spaces across Lahore for art installations to attract a wider audience and spark conversations about sustainable living.
Originally from Hong Kong, John Tain’s career has spanned several countries, including the United States, Taiwan, and India, where he digitally archived art before taking over curatorial duties in Pakistan.
The Lahore Biennale Foundation has been working since 2014 to preserve the city’s rich legacy of arts and culture, a heritage that stretches back thousands of years. This year’s theme, “Of Mountains and Seas,” reflects the pressing concern of how the Global South is disproportionately affected by the climate crisis.
Pakistan itself has witnessed a series of catastrophic floods, heatwaves and droughts that have claimed countless lives, caused massive financial damage and raised concerns about food security.
This is despite the fact that the country contributes less than one percent of global carbon emissions, yet remains one of the most severely affected by the impacts of climate change.
“[This year’s event] looks at the themes of ecologies and sustainable futures, but not from the perspective of the problems that we’re all facing, but really from thinking about what are the possible solutions,” Tain said while speaking to Arab News on Friday.
“Specifically, what are the solutions that we can find in a place like Lahore, Pakistan, and thinking about what resources are available locally and in the indigenous culture,” he added.
The event, which kicked off on October 5, will culminate in a Climate Congress next month, featuring international scholars, academics and artists, coinciding with the notorious smog season in the city.
Tain maintained that Lahore was the ideal location to carry out the biennale since it had been significantly impacted by the worsening climate.
“Working with 61 artists who come from over 30 countries, it’s really not about importing answers and knowledge from elsewhere,” he said. “It’s really about looking together for resources and what we can do together to find solutions for sustainability.”
Pointing to the paintings lining the walls of the Shalimar Garden, built by Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan in 1641, he highlighted works on melting glaciers and fossil fuels by artists like Hamra Abbas and Niamat Nigar.
“Lahore Biennale as a project is not located in art museums or elite spaces,” he said. “We’re really in the city. So, here we are at Shalimar Gardens, where families are playing football and taking strolls.”
Tain mentioned that art installations had also been placed at other public locations, such as the Orange Line metro system, which people use daily.
“So, it’s really meant to bring art to the people, rather than make people come to the art,” he added.
Asked about the Climate Congress at the end of the biennale, he said a lot of research on the environment had been done by experts and researchers, though it had not been properly communicated to the general public.
“The biennale is trying to think about how art and exhibitions can be vehicles for communicating these kinds of messages,” he continued, suggesting that the Climate Congress would be a continuation of the same effort.
While it has only been a week since the biennale installations were opened to the public, Tain said he was happy with the response.
“I think there was a good attendance on both of the opening days [of the inauguration],” he said, encouraging people to attend the event, which is open until November 8.


Logina Salah says Miss Universe Egypt 2024 win is a step towards greater inclusivity

Logina Salah says Miss Universe Egypt 2024 win is a step towards greater inclusivity
Updated 13 October 2024
Follow

Logina Salah says Miss Universe Egypt 2024 win is a step towards greater inclusivity

Logina Salah says Miss Universe Egypt 2024 win is a step towards greater inclusivity

DUBAI: Egyptian model Logina Salah was recently crowned Miss Universe Egypt 2024, a victory that she believes signifies progress toward greater inclusivity in the world.

The 34-year-old makeup artist, model, body positivity advocate and single mother — who faced childhood bullying due to her vitiligo, a skin condition — triumphed over 12 finalists to win the title at an event in Cairo.

“I feel like the world is getting closer to including everybody. It wasn’t allowed for moms to participate, or any woman above 30, and I didn’t like participating in ‘moms pageantry’; I do not like labeling,” Salah, who is based in Dubai, said of the rules that changed in 2023.

She added: “When those restrictions were lifted, I saw it as the perfect opportunity. Pageantry was always on my mind, but I always said, ‘let me keep it for my daughter, maybe she would be interested’. I used to dream about it, but now the dream came back to life. I applied, and, thank God, I made it to Miss Universe!”

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by Logina Salah (@loginasalah)

When Salah was announced as the winner, the first thought that crossed her mind was, “I want to have a crown that never falls.”

She said: “Being a queen is wonderful and fulfilling, but my ultimate purpose is to be the queen of hearts.”

Reflecting on her journey with vitiligo, Salah highlighted the power of living as an example. “I do not come every day and talk about vitiligo on my platform, but living my life fearlessly and unapologetically is a message to people,” she said.

“When someone comes across my profile and they see me living fearlessly, this is an inspiration. So, I do both. I like to go out and inspire, not only for people with vitiligo, but for all young girls and women.”

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by Pao Caniamo (@paoocaniamo)

The model will now represent Egypt at the global Miss Universe competition, to be held in Mexico this year from Nov. 14-16. The competition will see contestants from more than 130 countries compete.

As Salah prepares for the event, she explained her approach to the journey ahead: “I have never tied my dreams to a goal or a target. I always tie it to a mission and a purpose. With goals, when they end, that is it, it ends. I have a mission and a purpose to leave this world better than I found it. I have a mission and a purpose to inspire others and overcome adversity.”

The model also urged fans to show their support early on, not just after a victory. “We have this habit of supporting people only once they’ve won. I want people to vote now, to support now, to give everything they have now, because I am representing my country and the region. It truly lifts our spirits,” she said.