VENICE: The misty night sky sprinkled droplets of rain that splashed the mirrored image of hundreds of rushed feet across the pavement, as boats bobbed to greet me on my first trip to Venice. The UNESCO World Cultural Heritage site looked like a moving postcard.
Venice was built on water as a strategic refuge. In the 5th and 6th centuries, fleeing barbarian invasions across the crumbling Roman Empire, mainland Italians sought safety in the marshes of the Venetian lagoon, where the shallow, muddy waters provided a natural defense that horse-borne attackers could not penetrate. This architectural marvel — capital of the Veneto region, and affectionately known as the Floating City — was built on millions of petrified wooden piles.
A bridge crosses a waterway in Venice. (Shutterstock)
A floating city of over 100 islands, separated by expanses of open water and more than 150 canals all connected by upwards of 400 bridges, Venice functions without cars or roads. Naturally, water is everywhere and I expected that would mean a certain unpleasant smell would permeate the city. Thankfully, that was not the case.
There are several transport options. The water taxis are speedier but pricier than the vaporettos (water buses). And yes, you will see plenty of gondolas, the iconic flat-bottomed boat helmed by men in striped shirts with a single oar. They might make for an eye-catching social-media post, but there’s a reason you won’t see the locals using them; at around €90 for a 30-minute journey — rising to €110 at, or post-, sunset — they’ll eat into your holiday budget fast.
The water taxis are speedier but pricier than the vaporettos. (Shutterstock)
The best way to see the city is simply to walk. Be warned, though: GPS, comically, doesn’t factor in the actual water — so before you stuff your body into narrow dead-end alleys, make sure to check out other pedestrians. If most are walking the other direction, follow them. And watch out for pickpockets. I speak from experience.
Venice is the birthplace of several renowned composers, including Antonio Vivaldi, and you’ll hear music piped all around town. The city is also credited with opening the world’s first public opera house, the Teatro San Cassiano, in 1637.
St. Mark’s Square is the cultural heart of the city, surrounded by fun cafés and historical buildings. I stayed at the nearby Hotel Concordia and couldn’t have picked a better spot. It allows easy access to major attractions such as St. Mark’s Basilica, the Doge’s Palace, and Rialto Bridge.
Friulane, aka gondolier slippers. (Shutterstock)
But Venice is also famed for its shopping. I was on a mission to purchase a pair of friulane — traditional Venetian velvet slip-ons also known as gondolier slippers. Originating in the 19th century in Italy’s Friuli region, they are flexible and pillowy soft. Well worth the roughly €30 apiece. To further accessorize your wardrobe, Venetian shops also have excellent and affordable leather bags of all shapes and sizes.
Speaking of wardrobes, be prepared to layer and bring a hoodie or umbrella — whether for the scorching sun or the relentless rain.
You might be in Italy, but skip the standard pizza and try authentic Venetian seafood, like spaghetti al nero di seppia (squid ink pasta) or the marinated sardines — excellent appetizers even if you’re not normally a fan of fish. Also, never miss a chance to indulge in a scoop of delicious gelato at around €2.50.
As in much of Italy, if you want to blend in, refrain from sipping a cappuccino outside of morning hours. They’ll still serve you, but it’s literally frowned upon to drink a cup in the afternoon or, to my waitress’ horror, in the evening.
And, while you’re in possibly the world’s most stylish country, you could take the opportunity to get a chic Italian haircut. I found a quaint salon where the owner — who playfully had a figurine on the table that looked exactly like her — went about her work while chatting away with a nonna sitting next to us. It felt like a scene from a vintage movie, and was the perfect way to end my trip.
