Have you ever wondered how Bali would have looked like if tourists had never made it to the paradise island? Buckle up and join Mohamed El Hebeishy as he goes on an adventure trip discovering Nusa Penida … Bali’s last frontier.
It was an early July morning when I was standing in Sanur harbor waiting for the boat that would take me to Nusa Penida. It was a bit windy and the sea was not the calmest. Located south east of Bali, Nusa Penida is about an hour’s boat ride from Sanur. It is often a smooth ride in a speedboat that takes about 35 passengers on, but if the sea rises and the waves come crashing down, expect a bumpy boat ride.
And that’s how my ride was.
At the beginning it was nothing more than the boat swaying from side to side but as soon as it picked up speed and sailed away from the harbor, that was when all the real fun started. If you are into roller-coaster rides and bouncing trampoline parks, then you will enjoy the ride. Obviously the locals among the passengers either do or they just got used to it. While the tourists looked literally all at sea, with some even holding plastic bags in anticipation of throwing up, locals on the other hand were passing the time chit chatting and socializing. If you are one of those who gets seasickness easily, then you are strongly advised to sit at the back of the boat rather than the front; it gets less “bouncy” at the back. And if it is still not working, then skip on sitting all together and keep it standing; this will minimize the dizziness. Lastly, keep your gaze fixated at something not moving in the horizon; perhaps the shoreline.
Once you reach Nusa Penida you will be approached by many local guides offering their services as well as scooter rental. If you haven’t arranged with anyone beforehand, then it is a shot in the dark; just follow your gut feeling and make sure the scooter you are renting is in good condition.
Hop on and hit the road that zigzags the evergreen hills heading to Atuh Beach.
It is about a 45-minute scooter ride if you know how to ride one. If you are a rookie, expect it to last over an hour. It is a very scenic ride with spectacular views first of the shoreline dotted with seaweed farms, and later of green carpeted hills as the road takes you further inland. The scenic ride will eventually come to an end at a hilltop where you will find a small kiosk. There you can park your scooter and start the half an hour trek to Atuh Beach. The moderately easy trek gradually changes elevation as it takes you to a cliff with jaw-dropping vistas of Nusa Penida’s rugged shoreline. Please be careful as you will get carried away by the beauty of the natural scenery, while there is no fence to protect you. From the cliff top is a vertical fall into a rocky shore. The water is so clear that despite the height you can spot giant manta rays! I did. Once you are done clicking postcard pictures, follow the trek as it bends and takes you downward to Atuh Beach. And that is the difficult part of the trek. Though the descend is actually made up of steps, they are quite steep and that makes the way back exhausting (please carry an extra bottle of water with you). Don’t think much about that for now and enjoy the spectacular views of the wild beach.
By all means, the scenery is stunning to say the least, but the sea is not the best for swimming at Atuh Beach, especially when it is low tide. Have sometime to rest and contemplate the view while sipping on a fresh coconut. There is very basic tourism infrastructure here, and by basic I am literally referring to a couple of kiosks and a clean toilet.
Atuh Beach is certainly not the only mind-boggling scenery Nusa Penida has got to offer, another equally thrilling location is Broken Beach and its sister Angel Billabong. Broken Beach is located on the other side of the island, so if you are here for just one day (which I strongly don’t recommend as the last boat back to Sanur leaves at 4 p.m.) you will need to race time driving your scooter for about one and half to two hours, most of it on a dirt road.
Imagine a huge sinkhole with a cave like opening to a rough sea; this is how Broken Beach looks like from the top. The view will transcend you immediately to the old days of pirates in stormy seas with the sound of the waves crashing down at the rocky shoreline adding a strong element of realism. Once again, you need to be very careful as you approach the cliff for pictures; there is no protecting fence.
Less than 200m from Broken Beach is the out-of-this-world Angel Billabong. Imagine a natural infinity pool cut into sharp edged volcanic rocks in what looks like a trench; this is how Angel Billabong looks like. Its water comes in variations of green and blue and if you are really lucky you will catch a rainbow close to the edge. This is one of those natural views that is guaranteed to leave you short of breath and with eyes open wide. Be forewarned, swimming in Angel Billabong is not recommended.
Without a doubt Nusa Penida is for the adventurers among us; nonetheless, if you want a relaxing break where you can take a dip into azure blue waters, then make sure to include Crystal Bay in your itinerary. Nusa Penida is also a diving hotspot offering a unique opportunity to dive with giant manta rays, various kinds of sharks and gigantic Ocean Sunfish, better known as Mola Mola.
THE BOX: Before you pack
Nusa Penida is far from being the Pyramids, Taj Mahal or Burj Khalifa; there are no tourist buses here; having said so:
- Don’t expect lavish hotels; accommodation is all about home-stays and guesthouses.
- Bring cash in Indonesian Rupiah; your credit card is a worthless piece of plastic.
- Water and energy bars are a must; adventuring Nusa Penida is physically demanding.
- A sea sickness medicine is certainly a plus, and it doesn’t take much space in the bag.
- The natural scenes here are stunning! (look at the pictures); an extra fully charged camera battery comes in handy.
Nusa Penida ... Bali’s last frontier
Nusa Penida ... Bali’s last frontier
