I have always thought that Moroccan food deserves to be better known. The “tagine” and the “couscous” alone contribute to the greatness of its cuisine which truly ranks as one of the world’s finest gastronomy. The Red Spoon situated on Tahlia Street is one of the very few restaurants in Riyadh which serves Moroccan specialties. Incidentally, its menu also features Italian dishes.
One of my favorite Moroccan dishes is the “Bastilla” also known as “pastille,” “bisteeya” and “bstilla.” It is basically an elaborate meat pie similar to “judhaba,” a clear antecedent of the Moroccan Pastila, found in an anonymous 13th century Hispano-Muslim cookbook. Andalusia had a rich court life under the Spanish branch of the Umayyad dynasty and the Almohad and Nasrid caliphates which produced a delicious and refined cuisine.
“Bastilla” is a sumptuous delicacy combining sweet and salty flavors. In Morocco, it is made for special occasions such as weddings, religious feasts or to honor special guests. The filling, consisting of pieces of chicken in a spicy custard-like sauce, is surrounded by a very thin pastry leaf called “warqa” (thinner than phyllo pastry) and the top is sprinkled with a lattice-work of ground almonds, sugar and cinnamon.
Bastilla is traditionally made with pigeon meat but it is often replaced with chicken which is easier to find. Bastilla can also be prepared with fish. Both Chicken Bastilla and Sea food Bastilla are featured on the Red Spoon’s menu along with an interesting selection of “tagines.”
“Tagine” along with “couscous” are Morocco’s national dishes. Tagine’s name is derived from the unique earthenware dish it is cooked in, a thick clay cone resting on a rounded base. Tagine is a practical way of slow-cooking with no additional fat and minimum additional liquid. The heat remains trapped inside the pot by the raised outer ridges on the base of the tagine. Food need not be complicated to be good and tagine is a simple way to make a wonderful flavorsome meal, all cooked under one conical roof.
“Tagine with Almonds and Prunes,” one of the most popular Moroccan tagines is available as well as “Tagine Mrouzia,” a sweet version of this tagine. “Tagine Mrouzia” is prepared with mutton and it is spiced with honey, cinnamon, prunes, almonds and the famous Ras el Hanout, a blend of 20 to 30 spices.
Aromatic, zesty, spicy or sweet, a Moroccan tagine is so versatile. It can be made with lamb, beef , poultry, eggs, seafood and vegetables flavored with saffron, cumin, coriander, ginger, red pepper and cinnamon. Red Spoon serves a variety of tagines including “Tagine Makfoul,” “Tagine with Onions and Raisins,” “Tagine with Hamour,” “Sea Food Tagine,” “Tagine with Meat Balls,” “Tagine Kabab,” “Tagine Kofta,” “Chicken Tagine with Olives” and “Chicken Tagine with Capsicum.”
You might like to order a Zaalouk Salad as a side dish. Beware this might not be the salad you have in mind. It is a cooked salad prepared with eggplant, tomatoes, garlic and olive oil. It looks like a dip and although it can be served cold, I prefer this salad when it is served warm with an extra drizzle of olive oil and some chopped parsley. Those who like spicy food can ask for some chopped chili.
Couscous along with tagine is the most notable Moroccan specialty. This traditional Berber dish is made from granules of durum wheat sprayed with water to make small pellets which are then sprinkled with flour to form tiny granules of “couscous.” This labor intensive process is largely mechanized nowadays, and “couscous” is sold in markets around the world.
In Algeria, Libya, Morocco and Tunisia, “couscous” is mainly served with vegetables cooked in a stew along with chicken, lamb and even fish. “Fish couscous” is a Tunisian specialty. Incidentally, “couscous” in Tunisia is made with “harissa,” a very hot sauce which gives it spiciness and characteristic red color.
“Couscous” should be light and fluffy and this explains why it is also prepared as a dessert perfumed with orange flower water and sprinkled with almonds, cinnamon, raisins and sugar. “Sweet Couscous” is very popular in Egypt.
In the sweet section, I noticed Sfouf, also known in Morocco as “Sellou.” This is a unique crunchy, nutty but unbaked dessert made from toasted unhulled sesame seeds, fried almonds, ground cinnamon, ground anize, butter and flour that has been browned in the oven. Incidentally, the “Moroccan Sfouf” has nothing in common with the Lebanese “Sfouf,” an almond-semolina cake flavored with turmeric which gives it its deep yellow color.
And do not miss the opportunity to enjoy a most delicious mint tea, a perfect way to end a Moroccan meal. Moroccan mint tea is traditionally sweetened while it is still in the pot.
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