As cruising becomes increasingly popular around the world, few people think twice about boarding huge ships that sleep thousands and specialize in the impersonal touch. The ships are very large, often garish and loud, and often seem to focus on frenzy. Not my idea of a vacation, or an elegant cruise.
There is, thank goodness, an alternative. The Delta Queen Steamboat Company is a well-kept secret few international people know about. It caters to the discerning traveler who looks for quality, comfort, good taste, and even to learn a bit of American history. Few have any idea about the marvelous cruising experience that waits to carry them back into a time when courteous, professional crew individually catered to guests on board. There is also a unique mentality on board these ships. Passengers who choose Delta Queen are, for example, relieved to learn there is no gambling casinos on board, no frenetic frenzied program. Just beautiful “river boating,” with a schedule that can be as laid-back, or entertaining, as one chooses.
The American Queen, the largest of the Delta Queen’s three steamboats, is the world’s largest steamboat. Of course, its size is relative when compared with the many floating cities, or “ocean cruise ships.” The American Queen is 418 feet long and six decks high, and accommodates 436 passengers. Spacious, but a far cry from those unpleasant cities on water.
In setting with the times, my husband and I were thrilled to find the American Queen’s interior decoration as pure Victorian — including its fretwork and curlicues, tall fluted stacks and a giant paddle wheel. The steamboat is a genuine steam-powered vessel, just like the steamboats that worked America’s rivers in the mid-19th century.
A very popular part of all three of the “Queens” steamboat charm is the resident “Riverlorian,” a folksy, friendly river historian, who offers daily talks about the history, culture, stories and lore of the river — from the first settlers, the American Indians, to details of the time of Mark Twain — a fascinating time in history to cover.
The “Shore Stops,” were also a great favorite of ours. These are well-organized tours of the charming river towns, bustling cities, ante-bellum plantations, Civil War Battlefields, handsome gardens, the boyhood home of Mark Twain — and the last home of Elvis Presley, as well as the St. Louis Gateway Arch, museums, quaint riverside shops and boutiques.
There is no grander way to visit such sites than while on a riverboat. Each day offered a new tourist destination, and one just had to choose if they wanted to get off the boat to make new discoveries, or simply relax on board.
Each of the Delta Queen Steamboats has their own charm. We first cruised on the America Queen, and tradition has it that you always prefer the first steamboat you travel on. Her dining room is spectacular and brings to mind the main cabin of a traditional 18th century steamboat. Two decks high, with the ornate fretwork arches seen in photos of vintage steamers, the room is divided by a dropped ceiling in the middle, giving each half of the room a narrow, soaring appearance. Throughout our meals on this wonderful steamboat, we, and our fellow diners, enjoyed the ever-changing water views of the river and shorelines through the tall windows that line the dining area.
At the bow of the boat, a sweeping exterior staircase leads guests up to the second-level Cabin Deck. And, at the top of the stairs, is an entrance foyer which separates the Gentlemen’s Card Room, a book-lined masculine retreat, from the Ladies’ Parlor, a demure Victorian drawing room, complete with its large wrought-iron bird cage, full of cheerful chirping birds.
Past the parlor and card room, and leading to the Purser’s Lobby is the antique-filled Mark Twain Gallery, which overlooks the dining room and provides comfortable seating for reading — books are on loan to guests — or relaxing.
There are several writing desks in the gallery, which were often filled with journal-writing guests — inspired by ever-changing magic they just witnessed on the river, or on its banks.
Many of the American Queen staterooms, which are tastefully decorated in the Victorian theme, open onto wide promenade decks, which is modeled after the smaller, original Delta Queen — to make for easy access to the panorama of the river, while also providing a sense of “neighborliness,” and an easy chat with a fellow cruise mate. My husband and I are still in regular contact with friends we made on this cruise, all of whom we met on the promenade decks or at our dining table.
The 416-passenger Mississippi Queen is a bit smaller than the American Queen, and like the American Queen, has many of the amenities as modern cruise ships. The Mississippi Queen also offers large staterooms with ample space for one’s wardrobe — always an important essential for most women. The Mississippi Queen’s 208 staterooms, half of which feature coveted private verandahs, are named for historic Civil War battles, states of the union, small river towns and other old-fashioned riverboats.
As with the Delta Queen and the American Queen, the Mississippi Queen is furnished in antique furniture. In the Forward Cabin Lounge, where the purser greets guests, one will find 19th-century-style furnishings, such as warm wood-toned cabinetry and custom-made window crowns of iridescent stained glass. At mid-ship, the striking Grand Staircase — with its trompe l’oeil ceiling of cherubs frolicking among the clouds — invites exploration of the sternwheeler’s seven decks.
On the Texas Deck is the first floor of the Paddlewheel Lounge, featuring more traditional Victorian-style furniture and wood facings and trim. In the Upper Paddlewheel Lounge, on the observation deck, alcoves furnished with Victorian-style couches, overstuffed chairs and Tiffany lamps provide cozy nooks for relaxing and viewing the river.
My husband and I were fortunate enough to be passengers on both the Mississippi Queen and the American Queen. In comparison, he preferred the Mississippi Queen’s private balcony, but also really liked the American Queen because of its spaciousness and the fact that he could watch the steamship’s workings in the engine room. I preferred the American Queen because of its glorious Mark Twain Gallery and the easy exercise we managed to have by walking around the ship’s promenade decks. I also favored the Queen’s larger bathroom that included details such as stiffly starched Battenburg lace shower curtains. I did, however, sleep better on the Mississippi Queen. A light sleeper, I often woke to people walking the deck outside our door, which doesn’t happen on the Mississippi Queen. Preferences aside, both ships have their unique, individual personalities; and both provide wonderful vacations.
Finally, the legendary Delta Queen, which is a national historic landmark, and is also listed on the National Register of Historic Places. She is the last operational steam paddle wheeler with overnight accommodations to have traveled America’s rivers since the early 1900s; the only steamboat to transit the Panama Canal; and the only one to host three presidents and a princess. (Presidents Herbert Hoover, Harry Truman and Jimmy Carter; and Great Britain’s Princess Margaret.)
Today the Delta Queen proudly features her original Tiffany-style stained glass windows, rich hardwood paneling, gleaming brass fittings, the only Siamese ironwood floor aboard a steamboat, and the oft-photographed Grand Staircase, crowed by a large crystal chandelier. Her cabins and staterooms continue the theme of old-fashioned elegance. A word of caution — my mother vacationed on the Delta Queen and found the stateroom cabins too confining for her and more specifically, her luggage. If you choose to travel on the Delta Queen, pack lightly!
The Delta Queen Steamboat Company prides itself in the gourmet meals it offers its passengers. This includes four sumptuous meals a day, including afternoon teas and moonlight buffets. The “Queens” emphasize American regional cuisine, with menus that incorporate the unique local flavors along the cruise itineraries.
Passengers on the “Queens” can limit their intake of fat, cholesterol or calories by choosing from the “Heart-Smart” dishes clearly marked on each daily menu. Or they can opt for the vegetarian fare, which is served on request. As vegetarians, we were delighted to discover that the chefs were not only trained, but more than happy, to prepare us various delicious vegetarians meals.
Given their preference, the Delta Queen Steamboat chefs seem to favor down-home Southern cooking — because fried chicken, pecan pie, angel food cake and chocolate brownies are all said to have originated on Mississippi River paddle wheelers.
The Delta Queen Steamboat Company traces its roots back to 1890, and is the oldest and largest US flag cruises line. The vacation paddle wheelers Delta Queen, Mississippi Queen and American Queen received US-flag documentation because they were built and are refurbished in the United States, staffed with American crew and owned by US citizens.
Because of its US flag documentation, the Delta Queen Steamboat Company is subject to all applicable US health, safety, labor and environmental laws and regulations, which foreign cruise ships are not.
These ships are America’s only authentic, steam-powered paddle wheelers that offer overnight accommodations, which in our books means a once-in-a-lifetime experience. In addition, men seem to love the engineering details on these ships, while women enjoy the pampered 18th-century elegance.
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(To find out more about the cruises offered by the Delta Queen Steamboat Company, log onto www.deltaqueen.com, or call, 504-586-0631.)
