SAN ANTONIO, 5 February — Spicy huevos rancheros (eggs sunny side up with onions, peppers, and salsa), refried beans, potatoes, home-made corn tortillas, a side order of fajita beef, a glass of Texas ice tea followed by a piping hot cup of coffee. A very tasty TexMex breakfast all for under $4.00. Viva San Antonio! There is much more to remember about this great American city in south central Texas than just the Alamo, site of the most famous battle of the war for Texas independence. And delicious, inexpensive, Mexican-inspired local cuisine is just the beginning. Whether you enjoy sightseeing, history, shopping, sports, or just relaxing on the water, San Antonio has something for everyone.
I first experienced San Antonio nearly 25 years ago and instantly fell in love with its Hispanic influenced charm. It was a very different environment from my roots on the US East Coast. After many years of passing through or short stays in the city, I now call San Antonio home. So do many other people. San Antonio is now ranked in the top ten most populous cities in the US. Despite the growth, the label of "Biggest Little City in America" still applies as exemplified by the warm and friendly citizens who make a trip to San Antonio a delightful experience.
San Antonio owes its origins to Spanish explorers and missionaries. Spain at one time laid claim to Mexico and much of the southwestern US. Ownership of parts of Texas passed among Spain, France, and Mexico before the region became its own country, the Republic of Texas, and then finally a US state. Although Spanish and Mexican governance of San Antonio is a thing of the past, the Hispanic influence and heritage is ever present.
The Alamo is the first and most famous of several Spanish missions.
A great place to start a tour of the city is at the Alamo, a former Spanish mission located in what is now downtown San Antonio and easily the most recognizable symbol of the city. Known as the "cradle of Texas Liberty," the Alamo was the site of a famous siege and battle in 1836 between a Mexican army under the command of General Santa Anna and the Alamo defenders led by the likes of Davy Crockett, Jim Bowie, and William Travis. The defenders died to the last man and gave rise to the battle cry "Remember the Alamo." Barely a month later, Texas forces led by Sam Houston would defeat Santa Anna and give birth to the Republic of Texas. To truly appreciate the significance of the Alamo go see the docudrama "Alamo — The Price of Freedom" on the six-story tall IMAX screen inside the Rivercenter Mall.
The Alamo is the first and most famous of several missions established in San Antonio in the 18th century as part of the Spanish Colonial frontier. The missions served to spread Spanish influence in the New World and were the focal points of not only religion, but education and economic activity as well. The Alamo is linked to the Concepcion, San Jose, San Juan, and Espada missions via the Mission Parkway Trail that winds for nine miles along the banks of the San Antonio River. The missions contain historically significant structures and exhibits about life on these early settlements.
Perhaps the next-best known attraction in San Antonio after the Alamo is the River Walk (Paseo del Rio in Spanish). Located below street level in the center of downtown, the River Walk extends for nearly three miles and is lined with restaurants, hotels, cafes, and shops. The San Antonio River lazily winds its way along a tree-shrouded path that provides for very relaxed setting. Grab a table at a riverside café, order a cold drink, and sit back and watch the parade of people going by. But there are times when the River Walk heats up and becomes a beehive of activity. The annual citywide Fiesta celebration is one example when citizens and tourists alike descend upon the river to attend events at the Arneson River Theater and other venues. The city even has a sense of humor when it comes to the river, which is drained and its mud bottom cleaned every year. In celebration of this event the Mud Festival is held that includes the naming of a Mud King and Queen.
Fiesta and the Mud Festival are just two of several annual special events for visitors to enjoy. Also recommended is the San Antonio Stock Show and Rodeo held on the grounds of the Freeman Coliseum, and Night in Old San Antonio held in the downtown area. These events spotlight both the city’s Western and Hispanic origins.
The Spanish were not the only Europeans to make their mark on the city. Significant numbers of German immigrants came to the area following Texas statehood. The King William Historic District, which encompasses a 25-block area near downtown, is a lasting tribute to their industriousness and success. This area was the preferred neighborhood of prominent German merchants and came to be the most elegant residential area of the city in the late 1800’s. Street after street of this state-designated historic zone are lined with magnificent homes that are a testament to the prosperity of the early German settlers. Several of these homes now house museums open to the public including the Guenther House and the Steves Homestead. I was most impressed by the home designs that took the direction of the prevailing winds into consideration. In an era before air conditioning, these homes could be quite comfortable in the midst of a hot Texas day.
If you are a sports fan you won’t be disappointed. The city boasts several professional and college teams in various sports not the least of which is the former National Basketball Association champions, the San Antonio Spurs. Depending on the time of year, you can take in semi-professional baseball and hockey, or attend the Alamo Bowl that features football teams from the Big12 Conference. Thoroughbred horse racing is also available at Retama Park.
If golf is more your bag you’re in luck. San Antonio annually hosts a major Professional Golf Association (PGA) tournament, the Texas Open, at the La Canterra Country Club. The city also has several quality private and public courses. More golf is possibly on the horizon as the PGA and city officials are discussing the building of a major PGA facility.
San Antonio city fathers have really worked hard to make the city a family-oriented destination. They were successful in wooing two major theme parks to the city: SeaWorld and Six Flags. Both parks offer rides, concessions, water parks and top-notch entertainment. Shamu, the killer whale, continues to be a favorite attraction. More wet fun is in store at Splashtown. This water park offers 18 acres of water rides, attractions, and its own man-made river.
I would be remiss if I didn’t mention food. Although international cuisine of all types are available I am partial to gastronomy a little closer to home: TexMex and barbecue. The city is dotted with TexMex restaurants in all price ranges. My favorites are the "hole-in-the-wall" eateries that offer a sinfully delicious menu and real value for the money. Barbecue is a must anywhere in Texas and San Antonio is no exception to the rule. A trip to Rudy’s BBQ located outside the city in the hamlet of Leon Springs is worth the drive. Mouth-watering barbecued chicken, sausage, and brisket are offered along with the ever-popular cream corn.
San Antonio is well located for a number of day-trips. If you crave a little saltwater the Gulf of Mexico is just a few hours away. Corpus Christi, Port Aransas and the northern portion of Padre Island are favorite summertime destinations.
If the Hispanic overtones of San Antonio are not enough for you the Mexican border city of Nuevo Laredo is nearby. Shopping bargains of all sorts can be had here. And don’t forget to sample the Margaritas and charbroiled cabrito (goat).
I’ve just scratched the surface of things to see and do in this wonderful city. Museums, art galleries, antique shopping, and the San Antonio Zoo, one of the best in America, still await. With all it has to offer it is not surprising that San Antonio attracts over 10 million visitors and hosts a multitude of conventions every year. Set your sights now for a journey to San Antonio, the Alamo City.