German anti-war epic ‘All Quiet on Western Front’ claims Oscars glory

German anti-war epic ‘All Quiet on Western Front’ claims Oscars glory
James Friend, winner of the Oscar for Best Cinematography for "All Quiet on the Western Front," is seen backstage during the 95th Academy Awards in Hollywood, Los Angeles, on March 12, 2023. (Handout via Reuters)
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Updated 13 March 2023

German anti-war epic ‘All Quiet on Western Front’ claims Oscars glory

German anti-war epic ‘All Quiet on Western Front’ claims Oscars glory
  • The film is based on the 1929 novel by Erich Maria Remarque, acclaimed as one of the most influential examples of pacifist literature ever written, translated into more than 60 languages

BERLIN: A wrenching German adaptation of the classic war novel “All Quiet on the Western Front” clinched the Academy Award for best international feature Sunday with its timely anti-militarist message.

Nearly a century after the book by Erich Maria Remarque was published, the Netflix production capped a triumphant march through awards season with the Oscar win.

It was the first German-language film in Academy history to be up for best picture, among a surprise nine nominations.




(L-R) Christian M. Goldbeck, winner of Best Production Design award, Edward Berger, winner of the Best International Feature Film award and James Friend, winner of the Best Cinematography award, each for "All Quiet On The Western Front" attend the Governors Ball. (AFP)

The last German winner of best international feature (a category then known as best foreign language film) was “The Lives of Others” in 2007.

Swiss director Edward Berger, 52, thanked his star Felix Kammerer, an Austrian stage actor making his cinematic debut, saying: “Without you, none of us would be here.”

In “All Quiet,” World War I is viewed through the eyes of teenage German soldier Paul Baeumer (Kammerer), a volunteer on the Western front.




 Edward Berger, winner of the Academy Award for Best International Feature Film for "All Quiet on the Western Front", poses in the press room during the 95th Annual Academy Awards. (AFP)

Once in the trenches, he quickly becomes aware of the absurdity of war and the patriotic brain-washing that got him there.

In one of several graphic battle scenes which drew comparisons with Steven Spielberg’s “Saving Private Ryan,” Baeumer recognizes his enemy’s shared humanity.

A year into Russia’s invasion of Ukraine, German Culture Minister Claudia Roth hailed Berger’s epic when it scooped seven of Britain’s BAFTA prizes last month as “unfortunately the right film at the right time.”




A scene from Netflix's film "All Quiet on the Western Front". (Screen grab from Netflix's official teaser video)

“It tackles the horrors of a war in the heart of Europe in a harrowing way... with unflinching images no one will easily forget,” she said.

Berger told AFP in Berlin last September as the picture premiered that the story was ripe for a fresh take.

“My film stands out from American or British (war) films made from the point of view of the victors,” he said.




 (L-R) Ernestine Hipper and Christian M. Goldbeck, winners of the Best Production Design award for "All Quiet on the Western Front," pose in the press room during the 95th Annual Academy Awards. (AFP)

“In Germany, there is always this feeling of shame, mourning and guilt (surrounding war). It was important for me to present this perspective.”

Published in 1929, the novel is one of the most influential examples of pacifist literature ever written, translated into more than 60 languages.

Just one year after the book came out, a US film adaptation by Lewis Milestone was released which would win the Academy Awards for best picture and best director.

But its subversive message saw the work banned in Germany and targeted in the 1933 book burnings by the Nazis, who accused it of “betraying soldiers.”

Berger was previously best known for his 2018 Emmy-nominated minizeries “Patrick Melrose” starring Benedict Cumberbatch.




A cover of the book by Erich Maria Remarque, as advertised on Amazon.com.

He said he was pushed to accept “All Quiet” by his teenage daughter, who had just studied this book like several generations of high school students before her.
His adaptation of Remarque’s work aimed to show “the perspective of the vanquished,” he said.
This includes aspects not covered in the book: the signing of the armistice after World War I and the harsh conditions imposed on the Germans that later fed Nazi propaganda to justify nationalism and the outbreak of World War II.




German pianist Volker Bertelmann poses with the Oscar for Best Music (Original Score) for "All Quiet on the Western Front" in the press room during the 95th Annual Academy Awards. (AFP)

German critics noted parallels with the current Russian onslaught in a story about a soldier fighting for a nationalist lie.
Martin Schwickert of the RND media group called the film “frighteningly current in light of the Ukraine war,” saying it “made plain what war means for those who have to fight it.”
The film proved popular in its home market, but reviews were mixed — and some were downright savage.
“In Germany, even after 100 years, one can’t see the difference between a good and a bad war film,” the daily Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung said.
The top-selling Bild however hailed the film as “brilliantly shot, wonderfully acted and packing a strong emotional punch.”
“A film everyone should see, especially in these times.”


List of 2023 Oscar winners

  • Best supporting actor: Ke Huy Quan, “Everything Everywhere All at Once”

  • Best supporting actress: Jamie Lee Curtis, “Everything Everywhere All at Once”

  • Best animated feature: “Guillermo del Toro’s Pinocchio”

  • Documentary feature: “Navalny”

  • Live action short: “An Irish Goodbye”

  • Cinematography: James Friend, “All Quiet on the Western Front”

  • Makeup and hairstyling: “The Whale”

  • Costume design: “Black Panther: Wakanda Forever”

  • International feature film: “All Quiet on the Western Front” (Germany)

  • Documentary short: “The Elephant Whisperers”

  • Animated short: “The Boy, the Mole, the Fox and the Horse”

  • Production design: “All Quiet on the Western Front”

  • Music (original score): Volker Bertelmann, “All Quiet on the Western Front” 
     


Influencer-loved The Giving Movement goes luxe with new Ramadan collection  

Influencer-loved The Giving Movement goes luxe with new Ramadan collection  
Updated 27 March 2023

Influencer-loved The Giving Movement goes luxe with new Ramadan collection  

Influencer-loved The Giving Movement goes luxe with new Ramadan collection  

DUBAI: Founded by Dominic Nowell-Barnes, popular sustainable brand The Giving Movement — the UAE-born label known for disrupting the Middle East athleisure scene — has launched its Ramadan Collection featuring luxurious fabrics and timeless silhouettes.   

“Our collection is a futuristic and luxurious take on modest partywear special designed for the holy month of Ramadan. The fabrics are a mix of luxurious plisse and satin. We have created some beautiful showstopping pieces with special tassel trims as well as timeless all over monogram prints which were first initially showcased at Arab Fashion Week last year,” said Khairunisa Suhail, head of design at TGM, in an interview with Arab News.  

 

 

Suhail, who developed her design signature while working in the UK and Stockholm, brought her love for Scandinavian designs, streetwear and minimalist ideology to TGM, which is also reflected in this latest drop.  

“As well as the fabrics and trims being sustainable and the collection being made right here in the UAE, we have carefully designed each piece to be comfortable, elegant and regal. Each piece is specially designed to make you feel like royalty,” said Suhail.  

The Ramadan Collection features luxe fabrics like plisse and satin. (Supplied)

While the modest collection is specially made with Ramadan in mind, the pieces are diverse and inclusive and can be worn comfortably whether you are planning a trip to the beach or heading to a special iftar with friends and family, added Suhail.  

“We believe comfort goes hand in hand with style. Comfort is at the forefront of our thinking when designing as it’s an important USP of ours. We want you to be comfortable in our designs whilst looking and feeling your best,” she said.  

 

 

As a brand, TGM has also done its fair share of charity work, especially during Ramadan.   

“We are extremely proud and grateful to be able to give back whilst doing what we love. We donate to our two partnered charities, Harmony House and Dubai Cares. Internally, we also organize charitable events such as iftar box handouts where the full team will help towards this cause during Ramadan. Last year, we partnered with The Giving Family to do this,” said Suhail.  


With her Syrian heritage, designer Daniela Cassab is putting Mexican craftsmanship on the global map  

With her Syrian heritage, designer Daniela Cassab is putting Mexican craftsmanship on the global map  
Updated 27 March 2023

With her Syrian heritage, designer Daniela Cassab is putting Mexican craftsmanship on the global map  

With her Syrian heritage, designer Daniela Cassab is putting Mexican craftsmanship on the global map  

DUBAI: Mexican designer Daniela Cassab, whose grandparents migrated from Aleppo, Syria, knows how to make the perfect leather jacket. Founder and designer of her artisanal label, DanCassab, she specializes in handmade leather garments in Mexico designed to transcend seasons and pass down through generations.   

The designer was in Dubai earlier this year to launch her exclusive pop-up at THAT Concept Store. Arab News caught up with her to understand her love for outerwear and what goes behind creating each piece.  

 

 

 

Born and raised in Mexico, Cassab grew up around fashion. Her family has been in the textile industry, and her father's factories manufactured jeans for Guess and Marciano.   

After studying art history at the prestigious Parsons School of Design in New York, she moved back home and realized the possibility of starting a label that valued slow fashion and focused on preserving the heritage and crafts of her country.   

Mexican designer Daniela Cassab specializes in outerwear. (Supplied)

 In 2016, DanCassab was born, one of the pillars of the brand being her employment of highly skilled local artisans.  

 Her specialty? Outerwear — you always need a perfect jacket that you can wear with jeans and a silk dress,” she explained.  

 

 

 

One look at her bestselling Loretta jacket, and it's hard not to fall in love with its glamorous cowboy aesthetic, oversized collar and soft fringes. Inspired by traditional jackets called Cuera Tamaulipeca worn by hunters in the Mexican state of Tamaulipas, she explained that typically fringes were designed to shed rain.   

“Four years ago the government from Tamaulipas wanted to reinterpret the Cuera Tamaulipeca and asked me to do it in a more contemporary way. That’s how our Iconic ‘Loretta’ came to life, and it was a hit. That was the first piece that started the idea of fringes, and I also love the whole cowboy vibe,” she said. Each of her pieces is handmade from the finest leathers using traditional construction techniques and can take six-to-eight days to create. Elsewhere, her beaded fringed jackets are equally covetable – especially with their Rock'n'Roll vibe.   

Daniela Cassab describes her clothes as works of art – because of the time and dedication that goes behind them. (Supplied)

She describes her clothes as works of art – because of the time and dedication that goes behind them. “The beading takes hours as it's done by hand. Additionally, unlike other materials, leather has no give – if you stitch it the wrong way, you must go back and do it all over again.”   

When it comes to her Arab roots, the designer said her heritage inspires her work ethic.  

“My Arab roots inspire me in the business area, since I was very young I was able to see how my great grandparents and my grandparents who came from Syria started a business in a completely different country. They were very agile and used to selling textiles. It was their passion, they were capable of creating a very big textile empire that lasted for generations until today,” she said, adding: “This is how I learned the importance of working, of falling in love with your passion and what you desire… the perseverance and the way they communicated with clients was also special, it’s a magical approach that makes customers fall in love.” 


Sudan’s speciality ‘bittersweet’ Ramadan drink

In Sudan, the brew is so identified with Ramadan that even the US embassy took to Twitter to promote its staff making it.
In Sudan, the brew is so identified with Ramadan that even the US embassy took to Twitter to promote its staff making it.
Updated 26 March 2023

Sudan’s speciality ‘bittersweet’ Ramadan drink

In Sudan, the brew is so identified with Ramadan that even the US embassy took to Twitter to promote its staff making it.
  • In Sudan, the arduously made “helo-murr,” which means “bittersweet,” is a drink synonymous with Ramadan
  • It can be found on almost every table across the northeast African country at the end of the day’s fast

OM ESHR, Sudan: As generations of Sudanese have done before her, Wissal Abdel Ghany crouched next to a fire to prepare a traditional drink, a thirst-quenching favorite enjoyed during the fasting month of Ramadan.
In Sudan, the arduously made “helo-murr,” which means “bittersweet,” is a drink synonymous with the Islamic holy month.
It can be found on almost every table across the northeast African country at the end of the day’s fast.
“Without it, our table feels empty,” said Abdel Ghany, wearing a bright orange headscarf.
She sat in a small room in the village of Om Eshr, on the outskirts of the capital Khartoum, which teemed with a small force of women busily scraping and spreading a mixture before serving the beverage in clear glasses.
The drink has satisfied thirsty fasters for decades and recipes are “inherited from our mothers and grandmothers,” the 43-year-old said.
Corn is harvested and left to dry in the sun before being ground and mixed with spices such as fenugreek, cumin or even hibiscus — Sudan’s other essential Ramadan beverage.
This mixture is then soaked in sugar and water for several days.
Abdel Ghany spread a layer of the thick brown paste over a grill plate above the coals of a wood fire, cooking it into a thin, leather-colored film.
The resulting crepe-like layer is then peeled away and stored — ready to be soaked in the final step to create the beloved drink.
Served as cold as possible, the drink is one of many ways that fasting Sudanese cool off, a significant challenge in one of the world’s hottest countries.
The daytime fasting month of Ramadan is one of the five pillars of Islam.
Observant Muslims refrain from eating and drinking from dawn to dusk, after which they traditionally gather with family and friends to break their fast.
In Sudan, the brew is so identified with Ramadan that even the US embassy took to Twitter to promote its staff making it, with diplomats wielding wooden spoons over embers and sipping the amber liquid.
Abdel Ghany said preparing the drink is a collective effort, bringing “together our sisters and friends.”
“We make it together to share among ourselves,” she said.
In Sudan’s cities, she added, some people don’t make it themselves.
“But they still have to offer it for dinner, so they buy it ready-made,” she said.
For Abdel Ghany, the preparation of helo-murr and the holy month cannot be separated.
“All it takes is a whiff of the scent coming out of a home to know that Ramadan is here,” she said.


London’s Victoria & Albert Museum hosts ‘open iftar’ for hundreds

London’s Victoria & Albert Museum hosts ‘open iftar’ for hundreds
Updated 26 March 2023

London’s Victoria & Albert Museum hosts ‘open iftar’ for hundreds

London’s Victoria & Albert Museum hosts ‘open iftar’ for hundreds

DUBAI: More than 500 people flocked to London’s Victoria and Albert Museum on Friday for an ‘Open Iftar’ event organized by the Ramadan Tent Project charity.

“Ramadan 2023 marks 10 phenomenal years of the Ramadan Tent Project and our signature Open Iftar events. Over the past nine years, our humble tent on a patch of green grew and grew, before it traveled to landmark locations,” the project said.

Similar events will take place this year at Shakespeare’s Globe theater, Wembley Stadium, Chelsea’s Stamford Bridge stadium and the Royal Albert Hall.

“The theme to mark our 10-year anniversary is ‘Belonging’. For the past decade we’ve connected and convened over half a million people from all backgrounds. Our passion in bridging between different communities is rooted in sharing our authentic selves with the world. 

“True belonging shouldn’t require you to change who you are – rather, it’s to celebrate who you are,” read an additional statement on the website.

Since 2013, the Open Iftar events have hosted more than 500,000 people across the UK at some of the country’s most iconic cultural spaces including Trafalgar Square, the BALTIC Museum, Bradford’s Centenary Square and Coventry Cathedral.
 


Lebanese designer Zuhair Murad strikes again with second custom look for Taylor Swift on ‘Eras’ tour 

Lebanese designer Zuhair Murad strikes again with second custom look for Taylor Swift on ‘Eras’ tour 
Updated 26 March 2023

Lebanese designer Zuhair Murad strikes again with second custom look for Taylor Swift on ‘Eras’ tour 

Lebanese designer Zuhair Murad strikes again with second custom look for Taylor Swift on ‘Eras’ tour 

DUBAI: After revealing that he designed US pop sensation Taylor Swift’s showstopping ballgown for the “The Eras Tour” just last week, Lebanese couturier Zuhair Murad is back with yet another unique look for her latest stop in Las Vegas.  

The 33-year-old wore a shimmering dark blue outfit, with embellishment and fringe detailing, paired with knee-high boots. 

“@TaylorSwift wore for The Eras Tour Las Vegas Opening Night a custom #ZMCouture midnight blue crystal embellished bodysuit, overflowing with richly beaded fringes and a matching garter,” posted the label’s official Instagram account, sharing a picture of the glittering outfit.  

The Grammy Award-winning singer -- who kicked off her first trek in more than four years at Glendale, Arizona's State Farm Stadium last weekend -- belted out her top hits at the Allegiant Stadium in Las Vegas on Friday and Saturday in a three-hour show  that ran through hits from every era of her 17-year career. 

At the Glendale concert, Swift donned a custom-made gown by Murad in a peachy hue with starburst sequin work across the length of the creation.