Manal AlDowayan on her work for the Venice Biennale 

Manal AlDowayan on her work for the Venice Biennale 
The Saudi pavilion’s theme at Venice this year is “Shifting Sands—A Battle Song.” (Supplied)
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Updated 19 April 2024
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Manal AlDowayan on her work for the Venice Biennale 

Manal AlDowayan on her work for the Venice Biennale 
  • The acclaimed artist is representing Saudi Arabia at this year’s ‘Olympics of the art world’ 

DUBAI: The acclaimed Saudi artist Manal AlDowayan is on a roll. Earlier this year, she opened two well-received exhibitions in AlUla, where she is also working on an ambitious land art commission for the upcoming Wadi AlFann cultural destination. And this week, AlDowayan will represent her country at the 60th iteration of the Venice Biennale — dubbed “the Olympics of the art world,” consisting as it does of multiple national pavilions — which runs until Nov. 24. She will be presenting what she describes as “two of my most major works in my career at this point.” 

AlDowayan has participated at Venice before. In 2009, she showed her work in an onsite exhibition organized by the Saudi art-focused initiative Edge of Arabia, alongside fellow Saudi artists including Maha Malluh and Ahmed Mater.  




AlDowayan will represent her country at the 60th iteration of the Venice Biennale. (Supplied)

“I’ve been going to Venice for about 12 years,” AlDowayan tells Arab News. “The first time I showed there, I knew in my heart that I would be coming back to represent Saudi Arabia; I would do everything in my power to come to this moment and prepare myself. It’s something very important for an artist: to participate in the Venice Biennale.” 

It was only last August that she was visited in her UK studio by Dina Amin, the CEO of the Visual Arts Commission, and cultural advisor Abdullah Al-Turki, and told she had been selected to represent the Kingdom in 2024.  

“My first thoughts were: ‘There’s no time,’” she says with a laugh. “To come up with a concept, complete the research, execute the concept, build it, and install it, is really complex. But my team, my studios, and I were ready. I already knew what I wanted to present, and within one week I had put together my proposal and it was approved. The artwork is a continuation of my language, my research and my forms that I work with.”




Participatory workshops for 'Shifting Sands - A Battle Song' by Manal AlDowayan. (Supplied)

The Saudi pavilion’s theme at Venice this year is “Shifting Sands—A Battle Song.” It is curated by a trio of female art experts, Jessica Cerasi, Maya El-Khalil, and Shadin AlBulaihed. In AlDowayan’s sound-meets-sculpture installation, she brings together much of what she has explored in her practice over the past two decades — community engagement, participatory art, media (mis)representation, and the visibility, or lack of it, of women in Saudi culture. The work is also about the momentous changes taking place in the Kingdom today, and her response to them.  

The work comprises two key parts: sound and soft sculptures. Saudi and Arab women’s voices are front and center; AlDowayan allowing them to reclaim their narrative, which she believes has consistently been misrepresented.  

“If you’re always told that you’re oppressed, repressed, depressed… you sort of lose the sense of yourself,” she adds. “And this artwork talks about this sort of constant hounding by Western media — and local media — speaking about the Arab woman; her body, her space, the rules of her behavior, and how she should exist in the public space.” 




Manal AlDowayan's 'Shifting Sands - A Battle Song.' (Supplied)

For this section, AlDowayan put out an open call inviting women to take part in workshops. They proved very popular, attended by all ages, professions and backgrounds.  

“In Riyadh, within three hours, 350 women registered,” she says. “We had to block the registration link because I don’t know how to control 350 women. I’m just one.” In the sessions, participants reacted to negative press headlines and media clippings, and AlDowayan recorded those reactions.  

“I always say that people are trying to define what a Saudi woman is,” explains AlDowayan. “We researched thousands and thousands of articles in my studios, in seven languages, and there were some very dark things written. I showed the women these articles and said, ‘Do you really feel these articles are really speaking your truth?’”  

She also asked them to write and/or draw their own stories. Examples included: “Two women equal one man.” “Thanks love, we don’t want to be saved.” And “Surrendering doesn’t look good on us, for we are wars.”  




Detail from Manal AlDowayan's 'Shifting Sands - A Battle Song.' (Supplied)

A selection of the written quotes were then read out loud by participants. While reading, they had headphones on, listening to, and harmonizing with, the eerie humming sounds made by sand dunes, which AlDowayan had previously recorded.  

“It was beautiful and meditative. You will see women with their eyes closed, their arms stretched out. It was a very spiritual moment,” AlDowayan recalls. The whole ‘performance’ was inspired by ‘Dahha,’ a ritual in which warriors celebrated victory with music and dance.  

Inside the pavilion, where the women’s recordings play, stand three soft black-and-brown sculptures, full of folds, shaped like the sand crystals known as desert roses — a recurring motif in AlDowayan’s work.  

“The rose is a very weak and delicate (thing),” she says. “But this crystal is born in extreme circumstances. First, it needs to be pouring rain, then there needs to be high temperatures and that’s how it crystalizes. I feel like I’ve adopted this form as a body and I deal with it like skin.”  

The folds of the enlarged sculptures are imprinted with “a cacophony of what Western media has written: the veil, repressed, oppressed, women, sexuality… All the words that always float over our heads,” says AlDowayan. They also include some of the women’s positive messages, as well as their drawings.  

“While you’re taking this journey you will hear the sound, and sound is sculptural in my opinion: It occupies but you can’t see it,” she says. “I feel the invisibility of sound, and its ‘presence’ is like the Arab woman. She’s strong, she’s there; it’s undeniable. Just because you don’t see her, it doesn’t mean she doesn’t exist.” 

As for how visitors will react to her work, AlDowayan hopes to provoke conversations.  

“I want questions. I want extreme emotions. They can hate it, they can love it, they can cry. But, I can’t do neutral,” she says. “Neutral means I did not succeed. If they have questions, then I’ve succeeded. If they talk about it after one day, I’ve succeeded.” 


Roberto Cavalli closes Dubai Fashion Week with bold animal prints, vibrant hues

Roberto Cavalli closes Dubai Fashion Week with bold animal prints, vibrant hues
Updated 07 September 2024
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Roberto Cavalli closes Dubai Fashion Week with bold animal prints, vibrant hues

Roberto Cavalli closes Dubai Fashion Week with bold animal prints, vibrant hues

DUBAI: The Italian luxury label Roberto Cavalli closed out Dubai Fashion Week this week with a presentation of its spring/summer 2025 collection, marking the brand’s first showcase in the Middle East.

Models descended onto the runway against a backdrop featuring the brand’s signature golden emblem. The runway was framed by a textured wall, with lighting that emphasized the collection.

The show kicked off with a powerful display of bold black-and-white printed outfits, featuring eye-catching patterns reminiscent of animal motifs, setting the stage for what was to come.

(Supplied)

The models strutted down the runway in long, structured coats and tailored suits, complemented by wide-brimmed hats and high boots.

Sleek tailored suits, glamorous mini-dresses, and flowing gowns reflected a mix of modern sophistication and bold statement pieces.

As the collection progressed, the color palette began to shift from monochromatic tones to vibrant hues, starting with a bold introduction of bright greens. Flowing pleated dresses and figure-hugging designs in various shades of green took center stage.

 (Instagram)

The green hues were followed by striking pinks and deep reds, with rose patterns adorning halter-neck dresses and flowing gowns.

In addition to the vivid colors, the collection featured a variety of textures. A standout piece was a fuchsia snake-patterned suit. Pleated fabrics added movement, while corset-style dresses highlighted structure and femininity. Flowing silks and airy satins further contributed to the collection’s dynamic mix.

(Supplied)

The show was attended by several celebrities and influencers, including “Dubai Bling” star Loujain Adada, Egyptian actress and model Enjy Kiwan, reality TV sisters Nadine and Farah Abdel Aziz, Tunisian model Ameni Esseibi, Emirati actress and TV presenter Mahira Abdel Aziz, Saudi designer and fashion influencer Tamaraah Al-Gabaani, Iraqi fashion blogger Deema Al-Asadi, and Egyptian style star Soha Taha.

The show concluded with Fausto Puglisi, the brand’s new creative director, stepping out to thank the audience.

Founded by the late Roberto Cavalli in the 1970s, the brand quickly became synonymous with Italian luxury and glamor. Roberto Cavalli has long been a staple on international runways and red carpets, and is known for its bold use of tropical patterns and animal prints.


Saudi-supported ‘Front Row’ screens in Toronto

Saudi-supported ‘Front Row’ screens in Toronto
Updated 07 September 2024
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Saudi-supported ‘Front Row’ screens in Toronto

Saudi-supported ‘Front Row’ screens in Toronto

DUBAI: Algerian filmmaker Merzak Allouche’s family dramedy “Front Row,” supported by the Red Sea Fund, screened this week at the 49th Toronto International Film Festival.

Allouche’s 19th feature tells the story of two matriarchs, Zohra Bouderbala and Safia Kadouri, who find themselves in conflict during a day at the beach. Zohra, accompanied by her five children, arrives early to secure a desirable spot, but tension arises when the Kadouri family is placed directly in front of them by a beach attendant.

As the two families engage in a passive-aggressive battle, teenage romance quietly unfolds in the background, adding to the drama.

The film stars Fatiha Ouared as Bouderbala, Bouchra Roy as Kadouri, and Nabil Asli as Hakim, the beach attendant.


Born in Exile unveils ‘nostalgic love letter’ to Libya at Dubai Fashion Week

Born in Exile unveils ‘nostalgic love letter’ to Libya at Dubai Fashion Week
Updated 07 September 2024
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Born in Exile unveils ‘nostalgic love letter’ to Libya at Dubai Fashion Week

Born in Exile unveils ‘nostalgic love letter’ to Libya at Dubai Fashion Week

DUBAI: Fashion label Born in Exile, led by designer Ibrahim Shebani, showcased its latest collection at Dubai Fashion Week in the form of a “nostalgic love letter” to Libya.

Shebani is keen to pay homage to Libya’s culture and heritage through his collections with one of the few high fashion brands to emerge from the country.

“We go back to our traditional dress code. We revamp it (and) we make modern clothing that is inspired from our traditional clothing,” he said before touching on the country’s turbulent recent history.

“Also the geopolitical situation influences our work … In 2014, when the civil war broke out in Libya, we had a beautiful monument in the center of (Tripoli), which was a bronze statue. It was stolen. We had some extremist militias in the city, and they stole it and destroyed it,” Shebani said, referring to an incident in November 2014 in which militants were suspected of removing the statue of a naked woman petting a gazelle.

“That was very heartbreaking to everyone that lived there or was from that city, and that inspired the collection. I think what we really want to say with this collection is that you might take away things, you might destroy some things, but it’s very, very difficult to wipe out the history of a nation.

“So the collection … is really a nostalgic love letter to a place where I lived for 10 years,” he said.

(Supplied)

Shebani was born in Germany and grew up in Egypt and Libya, before relocating to Tunisia, where he currently runs his brand.

The designer praised Tunisia’s homegrown production capabilities, and lamented the common practice of high-end European labels manufacturing leather goods there before placing a “Made in Europe” tag on the product.

“For every single brand you can think of, the bags factories (in Tunisia) produce (the goods). If you do one step in Italy, which is as little as fixing a button on a shirt, you can say it’s made in Italy,” he said, emphasizing the importance of educating potential customers on the realities of where and how luxury goods are made.

“Also, I think one of the biggest problems we have in the region is that the buyers are not very familiar with the regional brands,” Shebani added.

“It’s so much easier just to go to Europe because it’s a nice experience to be in Milan or in Paris,” he said.

Shebani believes the key to unlocking a brighter future for regional designers is to strengthen fashion infrastructure in the region involving all the key players — “it’s designers, plus clients, plus buyers, plus press, there has to be more of us in the region.”


‘Great feeling’ to win for Pakistan, says chocolatier who bagged prestigious French pastry award

‘Great feeling’ to win for Pakistan, says chocolatier who bagged prestigious French pastry award
Updated 07 September 2024
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‘Great feeling’ to win for Pakistan, says chocolatier who bagged prestigious French pastry award

‘Great feeling’ to win for Pakistan, says chocolatier who bagged prestigious French pastry award
  • Lals Pâtisserie, a luxury chocolate shop that opened in Karachi in 2006, won the ‘Pastry Discovery Gem Award 2024’ 
  • Award is given by Paris-based La Liste, world’s most selective global guide of restaurants, pastry shops and hotels

KARACHI: Lal Majid, whose Lals Pâtisserie won the prestigious La Liste ‘Pastry Discovery Gem Award’ 2024, said this week it was a “great feeling” to be the only winner from Pakistan, able to be in a room full of world-renowned chefs in Paris wearing a Pakistan pin and traditional salwar kameez. 
La Liste, the world’s most selective global guide of restaurants, pastry shops and hotels, puts out the awards annually, celebrating the “diversity of talents, the creativity and audacity, education, and the commitment to values such as seasonality and biodiversity.”
This year, the platform announced a total of 25 winners from 14 countries across the world in 10 categories. The Canadian Farine & Cacao pastry shop, which has been named one of the top pâtisseries in the world in the past, Chez Dodo, a charming pastry shop near St. Stephen’s Basilica in Budapest, and Alanya, a pastry shop in Lima’s bohemian Barranco district, also won in the same category as Lals.
Majid got her award at a ceremony held on June 17, 2024, in Paris. She runs the business with her daughter Madiha Sultan Tai, who serves as CEO.
“Till now, I am the first one [from Pakistan to feature on La Liste],” Majid, a florist turned chocolatier, told Arab News in an interview. “We researched if any Pakistani has won this award previously and we learnt that I was the first one to get this award.”
When Majid first started getting email inquiries from La Liste, she thought they were fake.
“I didn’t realize [it was happening] till the time I entered that area,” Majid said, describing the ceremony in Paris where she stood shoulder to shoulder with some of the world’s best chefs and chocolatiers, many of whose creations she had been admiring for years from a distance and whose books she had read and reread.
“I was lucky to get the award. It was all about my pastry [and] my chocolate,” Majid said.
“When it was announced that I was [from] Pakistan, and I was the only one from this area, it was a great feeling, of course. I was wearing my flag. I was wearing my Pakistani shalwar kameez.”
“HANSEL AND GRETEL”
Born and raised in Peshawar, Majid was not very good at studies and got married while she was still in college.
“[As a child,] I loved chocolates. I don’t know why but I was very much inspired by the story of Hansel and Gretel,” Majid said, referring to a German fairy tale in which siblings Hansel and Gretel are abandoned in a forest and fall into the hands of a witch who lives in a bread, cake, and sugar house.
“I always used to dream that I could have a chocolate, biscuit and candy house and I could break [off a piece] and have it myself. But I never thought I’d be able to make a chocolate factory,” the chocolatier said. 
Majid was initially importing chocolate but then started taking classes on how to make it herself.
“I studied and did a lot of courses,” she said. “Then we started making gelatos. We made this [Shahbaz Commercial] outlet. And now, we are making our own chocolate. And the interesting thing is that now our chocolates, except the cocoa mass and cocoa beans which we don’t grow in Pakistan, every ingredient is local and Pakistani.”
Lals has multiple outlets in Karachi and Lahore and in March this year launched an online shop in Dubai, with a small kiosk in a physical outlet also.
“Dubai is a very tough market. It’s very initial so I can’t say anything about the response yet but inshaAllah, soon,” Majid said.
“We are expanding to Islamabad and opening one more outlet in Lahore [soon]. I hope [to launch an outlet] in Peshawar. That’s my hometown. I live in Karachi but my heart is in Peshawar.”


Riyadh-based UK artist Simon Mortimer delves into Saudi pop culture 

Riyadh-based UK artist Simon Mortimer delves into Saudi pop culture 
Updated 06 September 2024
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Riyadh-based UK artist Simon Mortimer delves into Saudi pop culture 

Riyadh-based UK artist Simon Mortimer delves into Saudi pop culture 
  • Simon Mortimer’s mixed-media works exploring Arabic imagery and language are currently on show in Doha 

RIYADH: Inside his apartment in Riyadh, British artist Simon Mortimer experiments with images that explore Saudi Arabia’s current period of transformation. His vibrant creations are filled with references to contemporary Saudi culture through high and low art, with an abundance of Arabic influences.  

In one of the artist’s recent works, a realistic painting of a typewriter on light blue, gray and yellow background is encircled by various signs and symbols from everyday Saudi culture, including an evocative Saudi-based multinational Sharbatly fruit label showing a young boy wearing a red hat. At the top of the work is what appears to be a phrase from another advertisement in Arabic, translating to “For those who don’t know.” On the left-hand side of the typewriter, which Mortimer explains represents the idea of communication, is a cartoon-like depiction of a red falcon with its beak nestled ever so slightly on the machine and a small yellow crown over its head. 

Simon Mortimer. (Supplied)

Mortimer, currently working in Riyadh as an art teacher, is showing works in a new exhibition at the Media Majlis Museum (mm: museum) at Qatar’s Northwestern University titled “The limits of my language are the limits of my world.” It’s a mixed-media exhibition exploring the Arabic language, its historical and contemporary context and questions surrounding its future existence. It runs until Dec. 5. 

Many of Mortimer’s recent works incorporate Arabic writing and the imagery he selects is often repeated throughout his works (the falcon, the Sharbatly logo, coffee pots, and more). He doesn’t speak Arabic, but he says he is “fascinated by the forms of the letters, the culture and the language” and likes to use words with meanings that reflect the subject matter of his pieces. 

“I love to explore the popular culture of a place,” he tells Arab News. “You immediately see these interesting images, logos and adverts. I love the visuals and the aesthetics, and I often don’t understand what they mean, especially when the labels are in Arabic, so I go onto Google Translate to get a better sense of the meaning.” 

'Learn' by Simon Mortimer. (Supplied)

Mortimer moved to Riyadh around a year ago from Doha, where he lived for five years. In the Qatari capital he was an artist-in-residence at the Fire Station, one of Qatar’s leading contemporary art spaces. He has lived in a number of other countries, including the Philippines, Greece and Spain, and has exhibited his work in the UK, Greece, Indonesia, the Philippines and Qatar. 

“I love being a foreigner,” he says. “I love living in different countries and exploring local popular culture. It is interesting whatever country I am in,” explains Mortimer. “Everyday images are combined with text, and the ambiguity that this can lead to reflects the misunderstandings that sometimes arise when living in, or learning about, other countries and cultures. 

'No Limits' triptych by Simon Mortimer. (Supplied)

“I enjoy layering and creating texture with a wide range of media, as well as challenging the concept of ‘high’ and ‘low’ art; traditional ways of mark-making such as oil paint and etching are brought together in the same artwork with modern media such as spray paint and marker pen,” he continues. 

Mortimer’s creative process involves literal and metaphorical layers. He incorporates images and references from Saudi pop-culture, as well as Arabic script, and then merges them in a mixture of traditional oil painting, acrylic, stencils, photocopies, and spray paint. In essence, Mortimer’s works offer the reflections of a non-Arab on present-day Saudi society, as well as his desire to better understand Saudi contemporary culture. 

'Right to Left' by Simon Mortimer. (Supplied)

The new exhibition in Doha invites visitors to explore and celebrate Arabic’s rich history and influence of the Arabic language and to reflect on its place in the future. It revolves around four key themes: “Always another side?” which introduces Arabic and its complexities, challenging negative connotations of the language through beautiful representations; “An influential and powerful language?” exploring how Arabic has shaped politics, science, religion and culture worldwide; “Does media representation matter?” examining the portrayal of Arabic in the media; and the final theme: “Is Arabic a language of the future?” exploring efforts to preserve and protect the language in a world where the ubiquity and dominance of English — particularly in the digital realm, poses challenges. 

Mortimer’s works in the show explore these themes from the viewpoint of a non-Arabic speaker.  They incorporate images from contemporary Arabian society — particularly drawing from his recent experiences in Saudi and Qatar — and Arabic proverbs to explore language, multiculturalism, and education from the perspective of a non-speaker. 

'Round Puff' by Simon Mortimer. (Supplied)

Incorporating local imagery and language into his work allows Mortimer to immerse himself more fully in local culture — and learn something of the language. He says he also learns from, and is inspired by, the Saudi high school students he is teaching.  

“They tell me about the cartoons and the sports they watch and introduce me to popular culture in Saudi and discuss the changes taking place in the Kingdom,” he says. “I’ve learned so much through them.”