DUBAI: Wednesday marks the launch of the Michelin Guide in Saudi Arabia with the first clutch of restaurants to be revealed in a three-part rollout that includes Nov. 15 and Dec. 15.
The moment marks a major milestone in the Kingdom’s evolving culinary landscape.
Gwendal Poullennec, international director of the Michelin Guide, spoke to Arab News in Paris last week about the future of Saudi Arabia’s food scene.
“When we are talking about Saudi, we still have to consider that it’s an emerging both gastronomic and hospitality destination … when we look at other destinations that are a bit more mature, the second step — I wish will one day happen in the future — is to see more independently run and smaller properties blossom.
“Typically that’s part of the trajectory when you see the emergence of a culinary scene,” he added.
At the time of writing, the first wave of restaurants recognized by Michelin has yet to be announced, with critics left wondering what the ratio of homegrown concepts to international imports will be.
Organized in partnership with the Culinary Arts Commission, a subsidiary of Saudi Arabia’s Ministry of Culture, the new selection will focus on Riyadh and Jeddah.
It will also begin to explore the diverse regions of the Kingdom, including Alkhobar and AlUla — indicating there will be plenty of opportunities for Saudi-born concepts to shine during the phased announcements.
One Michelin star is awarded to restaurants for “high-quality cooking that is worth a stop,” two stars for “excellent cooking that is worth a detour,” and three stars for “exceptional cuisine that is worth a special journey.”
Alongside the coveted star ratings, the selection also includes the popular Bib Gourmand category, a distinction awarded to restaurants that provide good quality food at a moderate price.
Poullennec also touched on the Michelin Guide’s role in encouraging international tourism, whether it be the restaurant guide or the newly expanded Michelin Keys guide that focuses on hotel properties around the world.
With seven hotels in Saudi Arabia earning Michelin Keys at last week’s ceremony in Paris, Saudi Arabia is fast becoming a market for discerning travelers.
“Gastronomy is sometimes the main hook, but people are looking for authentic places to stay and especially the new generations,” Poullennec said.
Looking inwards, there is a keen focus at Michelin on ensuring the restaurant guide mirrors local tastes.
With the famously anonymous inspectors representing more than 30 nationalities, there seems to be an effort to ensure different culturally-informed taste palettes are accounted for in the selection process.
It is part of the reason Poullennec believes the guide has succeeded internationally, beyond the traditional Western parameters and taste buds.
The Michelin Guide first went beyond those borders with its launch in Japan in 2007, popular with Japanese locals themselves according to Poullennec because “it was a true reflection of what they believe is the soul of Japanese food.”
“(It was a) way to rediscover their own culture, fostering a real sense of pride because all the countries and all the cultures are very proud about their own culinary culture and heritage … and for me, for Saudi, the recipe is the same.
“If we would like to deserve the trust, regardless who we are, of course we are legitimate but being legitimate is not enough, you have to be relevant to be able to talk to the local people to make sure that all selection makes sense, that you have not only international outlets, but … real local, authentic flavors.”
“And for me, that is the key for success, it all starts with the quality of the curation itself.”
