Al-Azem Palace: Essence of Damascene Architecture

Author: 
Lulwa Shalhoub, Arab News
Publication Date: 
Sat, 2005-04-09 03:00

AL-AZEM Palace in Syria was built in 1749 by As’ad Pasha Al-Azem, the Ottoman governor of Damascus. The palace is located south of the Omayyad Mosque near Suq al-Buzuriyya. When As’ad Pasha Al Azem decided to build his own palace, construction work in Damascus stopped for three years. All the workers were occupied in making the palace one of the most wonderful and beautiful ever seen. A historian described the palace’s construction: “As’ad Pasha took Caliph Mu’awaiya’s house and what surrounds it and began building his palace. One thousand trees were cut and most of the city’s carpenters and house painters cooperated to finish the work. Whenever As’ad Pasha heard of fine marble stones and pillars, he would bring them from wherever — regardless of the cost.” Once the palace was finished, however, As’ad Pasha did not enjoy it for long. He was transferred to Aleppo as a move prior to his removal from office. He was killed there and his properties were forfeited by order of the Ottoman authorities.

The palace contains three principal wings: The khadamlik, the haremlik and the salamlik. The khadamlik is located behind the haremlik and is the wing for servants. The haremlik is the family’s private wing and it contained the palace’s women and children. It is connected to the servants’ wing, the kitchen and the baths which are in the same style as the city’s public baths though on a smaller scale. The wing for receiving guests was the salamlik and it consists of formal halls, reception areas and courtyards.

The palace is the very essence of Damascene architecture with its very distinct oriental ornaments and arches. Abdul Qader Rihawi in his book “Damascus: Its History Development and Artistic Heritage” describes the design and architecture of the palace. “Simultaneously decadent and serene, the duality is achieved through the juxtaposition of elaborate and opulent interior decoration and starkly minimalist exterior facades of the wings articulated in traditional Damascene designs (ablaq) of alternating stripes of black and white stone.” He added “Other building materials, for example marble mosaics, carved stone openings with muqarnas corners, elaborate wooden wall paneling and the bedroom’s painted wooden panel ceilings of natural scenes, accentuate the overall impression of sensuousness.”

During the French mandate, the palace became the residence of the French High Commissioner. When the population revolted against French rule, the palace was attacked and part of it was burned. The High Commissioner managed to escape capture and death by dressing in women’s clothing.

The palace was severely damaged by the French bombardment during the Syrian Revolt of 1925 but large parts of it were later rebuilt. In 1952, the palace became a museum and showpiece of Syrian traditions. It is a fine example of traditional Syrian architecture and is one of the main tourist attractions in Damascus. The rooms in the museum show many handcrafts with statues symbolizing people wearing traditional clothes, and performing traditional activities. There is a room showing the fashions of the time along with handicrafts such as weaving, glass, silver gilding and leather work. There is a room for the bride and another for the mother-in-law. There is also a classroom — “kuttab” — with students sitting on the ground and the teacher holding a stick while teaching his students Qur’an and Arabic. Another room is the public baths where one man is washing another man’s hair.

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