COPENHAGEN has become a very attractive destination over the last decade. Denmark’s capital not only wins a permanent spot on the list of the “world’s most livable cities” but it is also a cosmopolitan and fun-loving city where picturesque surroundings embrace futuristic architecture. The most striking feature about Copenhagen is that everything is within walking distance or a quick trip on the city’s efficient public transport.
August is a tourist month, being the time for open-air concerts and music-festivals, lots of street activity and longer hours at sightseeing attractions. The last half of August is a particularly good time to visit. But whatever time you choose to come, you will always find Copenhageners relaxed and casual since, after all, the Danes think of themselves as a classless society. Expect to see rain and grey skies and on wet and cold days, you might find the general mood withdrawn and introspective; that’s when the Danes look for the famed love of “hygge” — the pursuit of a sense of cozy wellbeing when the cares of the world are set aside.
Copenhagen is a city built around its harbor and canals. From the large liquid gap that separates Christianshavn and Amager from mainland Copenhagen to the basin of Nyhavn, the waterways cutting Copenhagen apart are an essential part of the city, not only providing flavor but also a practical way of getting around and seeing the town. While there are a variety of ways to take a tour of the city, taking a guided boat is one of the best ways to get a feel for Copenhagen. The kayak option is even more personal and it allows groups to discover the hidden corners of the harbor.
The picturesque Nyhavn canal was dug in the 7th century to allow traders to bring their wares into the heart of the city. Long a haunt for sailors and writers, including Hans Christian Andersen who lived in the house No 67 for nearly 20 years, Nyhavn today is lined with restored granaries, warehouses and trendy pavement cafes that are filled with people whenever the weather is sunny. Blankets are even provided for those who might feel cold. The only drawback is that when it is time to leave, one hardly feels like taking it off.
While you are in Nyhavn, you must have lunch at Ida Davidsen, which is rightly considered the top smorrebrod specialist, not only in Copenhagen but the whole world. You can choose from the menu, which boasts a nearly limitless variety of open-face sandwiches but the most practical is to go to the counter where a selection, which changes daily is displayed. The herring with oranges is superb and fjord prawns are a must. Each sandwich comes with a particular kind of home-made bread and no two kinds are alike. One should be aware that Ida Davidsen is open only from 10am until 5pm from Monday to Friday.
Not far from Nyhavn is Copenhagen’s most famous street: Stroget (pronounced stroy-eth). It’s just over a kilometer long and it’s lined with shops, cafes, restaurants and department stores. Just off Stroget, in a little side street lies an amazing pastry shop. I still cannot understand why it is called La Glace which means ice cream in French. This delightful “konditorei” has been serving tea and the most extraordinary cream cakes for more than a century. I would suggest you skip tea and coffee altogether and instead order hot chocolate, which is the best I have ever had.
As you walk along Stroget towards Radhuspladsen, a huge central square flanked by the city hall (radhus), you will reach another of Copenhagen’s landmarks : Tivoli. This entertainment park, which dates from 1843 is a combination of flower gardens, food pavilions, amusement rides, open-air stage shows, and fireworks. This year the Pantomime Theater presents the world premiere of “Thumbelina” with sets designed by Her Majesty Queen Margrethe of Denmark.
