ARAFAT, 11 January 2006 — Determination is the key to success. A pilgrim from Anantnag, on the Indian side of Kashmir, has proved it beyond any doubt. At the age of 110, Mian Sarfaraz Ahmad Khan has come to Saudi Arabia to perform his fifth Haj; he performed his first in 1972.
“When I embarked on my first Haj in 1972, it took 21 days to reach the shore of the Red Sea in Jeddah. The journey was very tiring and demanding. I remember dozens of pilgrims had died on board the ship, since there was no proper arrangement for treatment. But thanks to God things have changed considerably. Everyday I’m examined by doctors from the Indian Consulate.”
Sarfaraz remembers with fondness his first Haj journey. In December 1971, war was raging between India and Pakistan; the atmosphere was charged with news of the conflict, some of them baseless rumors.
Sarfaraz recalled one such rumor: The ship carrying Indian pilgrims, the very one Sarfaraz was traveling, would be attacked on its way to Saudi Arabia via the port of Aden.
“A lot was in the air,” he said. “The atmosphere was tense because of rumors that the enemy had plans to stop our ship somewhere in the Indian Ocean and kill all of us — that we would not be able to complete our journey.”
One night, some overzealous pilgrims spotted a ship approaching from a distance. “We thought it was certainly an enemy ship and all the pilgrims started reciting ‘Labbaik Allahumma Labbaik’ in unison at the peak of their voice. But then the captain told us that the approaching ship was that of our own coast guard. And suddenly those who were crying and reciting prayers only moments before became hungry and thirsty and rushed toward the dining room,” Sarfaraz said with a laugh.
Sarfaraz, a man with an exceptional sense of humor, said, “I was not perturbed even for a moment. Most of the people on the ship were scouring the sea from the deck to locate enemy ships. But I was confident that nobody in this world has the power to stop the caravan of Allah’s guests. They used to call me crazy. And I used to tell them yes I’m crazy in my love of the Almighty, in my passion to see the places where our beloved Prophet Muhammad (peace be upon him) prayed and lived his life serving the humanity, spreading the message of equality, brotherhood, peace and harmony.”
Sarfaraz is a treasure trove of incidents that took place in those days. He remembers that only a few thousand pilgrims used to come from India at the time. The whole area of Mina and Arafat resembled an open-air mosque with people reciting Talbiyah and praying for salvation. Though things were not as organized as they are today, the atmosphere was certainly more personal, he said.
“I have seen the Haj changing with the passage of time,” he said. “My four pilgrimages have enriched me a lot. Today pilgrims come from all corners of the world. They come in organized groups, are met at airports by air-conditioned buses, travel with experienced guides and stay in star hotels in and around Makkah. Even the pilgrimage rites are performed in greater comfort, courtyards sheltered by sunshades, cool marble floors to pray, air-conditioned walkways and escalators to reach the roof of the holy mosques. The whole concept of the Haj has changed a great deal. People expect comfort and ease at every stage. It has also become an opportunity for some to make fast money.”
When reminded that Haj was physically challenging and is full of hardship, the elderly pilgrim was somewhat unconvinced. In his opinion, performing Haj requires a positive frame of mind and full faith in Allah that He will make it easy for you to perform all its rituals with ease. “I see a lot of young people around feeling exhausted and tired,” he said.
Sarfaraz spends most of his time reading Qur’an and in prayers. Even if he is not reading the holy book it is always in his hands.
When asked who helps him in performing the Haj, Sarfaraz said, “Allah will help me, my Book will guide me and show me the way. I get inspiration and courage from the Prophet’s sayings and tradition. Do you still think I need somebody to help me?” asked a religiously tuned Sarfaraz.
About his prayers in Arafat, Sarfaraz said he prayed to Allah to give him a call again to perform Haj.
