Make Waves in Tahiti

Author: 
Luaine Lee | SHNS
Publication Date: 
Thu, 2007-03-15 03:00

IMAGINE a vacation where you don’t have to pack and unpack, you don’t have to juggle timetables, carry heavy bags and learn to ask “How much?” in a new language.

That kind of vacation really exists if you decide on a cruise. There are all kinds of places to cruise. But as long as you’re going, why not ship off to paradise?

The Society Islands, 118 bejeweled islands in French Polynesia, are floating gardens beyond the imagination. Tahiti, Bora Bora and Moorea are the crown jewels in this tropical coronet. It’s no wonder that artist Paul Gauguin left his wife and five children for these volcanic gems, or that Marlon Brando insisted on commandeering his very own island.

And there’s a way to see them close-up without ever leaving your stateroom. The Regent Seven Seas Paul Gauguin sails the pearlescent waters of these South Pacific isles with fewer than 400 guests. And a shallow draft enables the vessel to anchor that much closer to the coastline.

From your balcony stateroom (more than half of the rooms feature a balcony), you can smell the bonfires on land, watch the rainbows darting through the rain forest and hear the cocks crowing at dawn.

These cruises usually start in Papeete, the capital of Tahiti, where you can rest up from your flight for a couple of days and take in the sights. Don’t miss the town’s farmers market with its abundance of exotic vegetables, flamboyant flowers and so much more. Le Marche is located off Boulevard Pomare near two taxi stands.

There are lots of spiffy hotels on the island, but it’s only at the fabled Beachcomber (now called the InterContinental Resort Tahiti) where you can catch the terrific Les Grands Ballets de Tahiti on Friday and Saturday nights. The dance troupe is served up with a Samoan-sized barbecue — both for $80.

You can rent a car or go about the island by taxi, but neither is cheap. In fact, nothing is cheap in Tahiti. And taxi prices rise after sundown.

Things to see include Point Venus, One Tree Hill, the Gauguin Museum and the Vaipahi Gardens and Waterfalls. Tours may be booked at the Visitors Bureau on the Quai d’Honneur near Boulevard Pomare.

One of Paul Gauguin’s several cruises is the eight-day, seven-night sail to Raiatea, Taha’a, Bora Bora and Moorea, returning to Papeete.

Staterooms with balconies run $4,395 per person, based on double occupancy; and porthole cabins cost about $2,795. This includes all gratuities, all meals, an in-room bar and water sports — including wind-surfing, kayaking and water-skiing off the stern. Snorkel equipment is provided throughout the cruise at no extra cost.

Prices are high on the islands because most everything must be flown or shipped in. But among the delights are the famous black pearls — actually, the pearls are of various gradations of gray. You’ll spot pearl farms sprouting on the blue waters near all the islands, and run across vendors almost everywhere.

Pearls are valued by their size, color, shape, luster and surface quality. Locals advise potential buyers to seek expert advice before plunking down cash or plastic for the treasures, however.

There are a number of excursions you can arrange onboard while anchored off the islands. You can pre-book online at www.theregentexperience.com/excursions, or request them once under way.

Raiatea is called the “sacred” island by the Polynesians. This used to be the center of worship for the sea people, and is thought to be the first island occupied by the Polynesians. Its most revered monument is the Taputapuatea marae (temple), where males were sacrificed to the deity Oro. The largest of the Leeward Islands, Raiatea is known for its vanilla.

The place retains its quaint colonial character, and most everything is closed on Sunday. Still, you can take excursions inland to where the vanilla island is verdant. Visit plantations and perhaps the Faaroa River. The off-road excursion cross-country and up the river runs $75.

Enclosed in Raiatea’s reef is the small island of Taha’a, which is famous for its vanilla plantations.

The breathtaking Bora Bora boasts a lagoon three times larger than the land itself. A flight aboard a helicopter reveals the riotous colors of the sea, which melt from ice-blue to almost inky-black. Flights are Mondays and Tuesdays, and are priced at $195 for a 15-minute bird’s-eye view. From up here you’ll see shrimp farms, emerald mountains and ivory beaches that stretch on and on.

Car rentals run $120 for four hours, but taxis are available for individual tours and often prove less expensive.

Should you want to venture onshore for a couple of days, there are lots of B&Bs and hotels to choose from. There are also a half-dozen gorgeous resorts, including the Bora Bora Lagoon Resort, the InterContinental and the spectacular Bora Bora Nui.

The island of Moorea is only 11 miles from Papeete. The topography is a worthy spectacle, especially at dawn or sunset. And if you’re lucky enough to encounter a shower, there are sure to be rainbows arcing across the sky like spent fireworks.

This heart-shaped isle is indented by two beautiful bays, Opunohu and Cook’s. Most land tours end up at the Belvedere lookout, with its great view of both bays. Capt. James Cook anchored in one of these bays. However, it was not Cook’s Bay but Opunohu where the famed 18th-century British explorer actually put in.

Excursions include the Photo Adventure trip ($135), Botanical and Agricultural Walk ($75) and the illuminating 4-1/2-hour trek on the Trail of the Ancients, during which New Zealand-born anthropologist Mark Eddowes describes the history of the people who made their way to Moorea. The trek — at $72 — involves a rather vigorous three-hour hike, but is well worth the price.

In fact, Eddowes is one of the guest speakers onboard the ship, and his observations about the Polynesian culture are among the highlights of the cruise.

Honeymooners and others who’d rather not venture too far from the comforts of their cabins never even need to leave the ship. There are many activities onboard, including parlor games, demonstrations, workouts and guest speakers.

Three restaurants on the ship do their best to keep you full, but there’s an afternoon tea that can tide you over if you get hungry between lunch and dinner. And executive chef Mark Bishop makes sure the meals are tasty, inventive and varied. With a ratio of one crew member per 1-1/2 guests, the service is exemplary. Capt. Rajko Zupan makes sure that his ship is immaculate.

Main category: 
Old Categories: